rollbar question

[gmoney]

Can anyone tell me if there is a company that makes rollbars for 72 k5, looking for the bigger round rollbar. Thanks

[Angelse68cal]

I have one in my Jimmy I might be getting rid of.

[72 Blue Belle]

Rather than start a new thread, would like to resurrect this one. I would like to add a rollbar to my 72 K5. Don't mind buying or fabricating. Problem with fabricating is the only guy I know with a bender can only do 1 3/4" (he is a race car fabricator). Is this 'beefy' enough? Anyone know ones for sale? Maybe a fabricator in Houston that can bend 2 1/2" plus?
Thanks,

[Zoomad75]

From what I understand, it's not just the overall diameter, but the wall thickness of the tube you plan on using. Pleanty have used 1 3/4" dom or 2" dom. Go poke around on CK5.com and search for posts on Roll cages. Theres a ton of info on the fabrication of bars/cages.

Your buddy should be able to change the dies in his bender to at least 2" if you wanted bigger than what he usually builds cars with. You might end up buying the dies for him if he isn't going to use them on anything else but your bar.

Smittybuilt might still make a interior roll bar too. They do for the second gen's you might be able to get one of those as a starting point.

[Chevyman63]

Here's one
http://www.swracecars.com/roll_bars.asp

[Huck]

SWracecars makes a kit but it is the smaller pipe. Keep in mind that in reality, if you are seriously considering going off road and want a roll bar that will effectively protect you and or passengers, most of the stuff you see on Blazers is more show then go. You have about 5,000lbs here and a good roll bar SHOULDl go through the floor and bolt up to the frame--not simply bolt to the thin floor. It would - should be at least a 6-8 point attachment unit--not the little 4 point.
I bought the kit from S&W race cars in Penn. I only used the Loop piece and two rear supports to the back wheel tubs. If the blazer got tipped, it might prevent it from going flat upsidedown but if rolled---I would be squashed! Now the hardtops are pretty strong and heavy but again, if rolled "SQUISH"!
The older Smitty Built units are big and thick ---and I believe stronger then the narrower pipe units like S&W. But again, strength has a lot to do with how it is fastened.
I have used a 73+^ roll bar and it fit perfect. In fact one I had came off a 75 and it was a rear bar! I just reversed it and it fit in my 72.

[Chevyman63]

Originally Posted by Huck

SWracecars makes a kit but it is the smaller pipe. Keep in mind that in reality, if you are seriously considering going off road and want a roll bar that will effectively protect you and or passengers, most of the stuff you see on Blazers is more show then go. You have about 5,000lbs here and a good roll bar SHOULDl go through the floor and bolt up to the frame--not simply bolt to the thin floor. It would - should be at least a 6-8 point attachment unit--not the little 4 point.
I bought the kit from S&W race cars in Penn. I only used the Loop piece and two rear supports to the back wheel tubs. If the blazer got tipped, it might prevent it from going flat upsidedown but if rolled---I would be squashed! Now the hardtops are pretty strong and heavy but again, if rolled "SQUISH"!
The older Smitty Built units are big and thick ---and I believe stronger then the narrower pipe units like S&W. But again, strength has a lot to do with how it is fastened.

[72 Blue Belle]

Thanks for the great info! I have been trying to get data, and find places to bolt to the frame for strength. My race car buddy of course wants a 10 point that won't even allow access to a back seat, but he can't help himself.... it's what he does. I could do it in small diameter DOM, and hopefully be relatively safe with good connections, but wanted to have the best of both worlds in the good connections, and the 'beefier' diameter for looks.

[72 Blue Belle]

Hey Huck! Just noticed you are in Shelbyville! I am from Louisville, have a sister in Shelbyville, and my parents are in Bardstown. They are originally from Holy Cross and Loretto respectively! Small world.

[Huck]

You're from Louisville--thats cool. We have quite a few truck guys here. But Houston is also nice except for the heat and humidity.
I would just post on the "for sale and wanted to buy" a heavy duty roll bar ---and you might get luckybut keep in mind that shipping could be a killer. I have an extra regular duty one that needs the lower sections replaced (rusted)--from a blazer I parted out. The really aren't really all that strong if they can rust out!!

[Zoomad75]

I forgot about S&W. They do pretty good work. From what I've read, the S&W stuff is a little more custom work to do as the Tubes come long for you to trim to fit when installing. Whereas the Smittybuilt stuff is ready to go most of the time.

Large tube vs smaller tube? Depending on how thick of wall tube you use the small tube can be just as strong as the larger stuff. I'd personally go with something in the middle for tube size to still get strength and still have room to manuver inside the K5. My Boy still needs to get in back so I can't go with an entire jungle gym of tubes. I'm building mine off of the stock hoop in my 75 and a stock rear hoop I found in a 77 at the boneyard. I'll connect the two and then buy the front bars from Smittybuilt or S&W. Just a simple 6 point with the floor reinforced at the attachment points.

I've done a lot of research on the cage to body or to the frame argument. Keeping in mind, attaching the cage to the frame is the ultimate. However, If the cage is tied into the body only the floor must get additional plating to keep the tube from ripping through in event of a roll over. Taking a page from the NHRA for roll cages in unibody cars (where they have NO frame to tie into), they require 6"x6" support plates to be welded to the floor at each cage attachment point.