Painting questions??

[Foosified]

1.How much paint is need to do entire truck exterior? Don't need any for inside of box, already have a sprayed in box liner.

2.What is the best primer for areas that are down to bare metal, but there are still areas where the paint is on??

3.Do I need to prime if i'm going over 36 year old paint that has no rust or indication of falling off anytime soon? Note this is going to be a 20 footer!

[RACINJASON22]

Depends on which kind of paint (base /clear, enamel ect.) You might try posting in the paint and body section or one of the mods. will move this thread for you.

[CPNEJR]

we painted over the old paint on my doors and it came out great. (for a first timer in a garage)

not sure how much paint but it took almost a whole gallon for 2 coats on the cab (inside and out) the front fenders, doors, cowl, and grill

[rage'nrat638]

i used 1 1/2 gallons between the blue and white
i also painted the insides of the doors and jambs, fenders

did not paint inside the bed

[special-K]

High build primer.

[blukangoo]

I haven´t gotten mine painted yet but I have been asking around already.
Just for the color (Yellow and White) I will need between 1 and 2 Gallons for the complete truck, inside the cab and doors also.
I am doing a complete stripdown.

[Rokcrln]

For "Lemon Drop" I am planning on 2gal but we are doing just about every surface of this truck. I will mix both gal in to one large can then split apart and paint the under side of cab, bottom of bed, hood, cowl and inside all fenders and see how much that takes. If it is over 3/4 of a gal then we will pick up a 3rd gal before starting on the body so I can batch mix it all. Not much help sorry.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[rust!!whatrust?]

When spraying over bare metal use an acid etch primer that is made for bare metal application. If you properly scuff that old paint you should have good adhesion but who knows really how much longer that paint plans on living. When the old paint goes so does everything on top of it. For a daily driven old truck,like mine, that might be just fine. High build primer is a must for a slick paint job and some are even made for bare metal surfaces. Most however are sprayed on after your etching primer. Whe I used to paint ICI made a primer that was good for bare metal and was a sandable highbuild surfacer also. For a cost effective paint job on a street car I "personally" not everyone though, would use a singal stage paint. ie. not base clear.

[70GMCer]

I ended up using 2 Gal urathane paint & 1 gal urathane clear. 3 coats of paint & 3 coats of clear using an HVLP gun. I thined the clear more than the paint. I also did under the hood & door jams. Did not do inside of the bed, as I lined it. I also used 1 gal epoxy primer sealer. Total job with all materials costs me about $400.00. This was for a lwb truck.......

Here's where I got most of my materials.......This is the 3rd vehicle I've painted using this product.

http://smartshoppersinc.com/

Most on here will most likely say, NO WAY!!

[sevt_chevelle]

On bare metal use epoxy primer.
On old 40 year old paint use epoxy primer reduced down as a sealer. Use the epoxy because epoxy is the best solvent barrier. If you just spray urethane based paint over lacquer(which you probably have) you run the risk of the urethane solventts attacking the lacquer.
But if you apply the epoxy first the solvent cant attack the lacquer as its protected by the epoxy.

Once you have the epoxy down you then go to urethane primer or baseclear...Eric

[Foosified]

Originally Posted by RACINJASON22

Depends on which kind of paint (base /clear, enamel ect.) You might try posting in the paint and body section or one of the mods. will move this thread for you.

I didn't know there was a paint and body section... I'll have to check it out.

I plan on painting it two tone white and the original medium green. I will use enamel.

Thanks for all the replies. Looks like bare metal gets self etching and for the painted areas I'll scuff up and use epoxy primer or high build?

Is it possible to get a fairly glossy look with enamel?

Cheers!

[bodyman9174]

Just epoxy primer the hole truck. Than use your high build. Also etching primmer should not go on top of bondo.

On the amount of paint depends on what paint u use. If u use dupont make sure u use the right value shade or it will take alot of paint. PPG paint covers nice, same with sikens. just to do the out side I would say 1 or 11/2 gallons should do it

[Kevin45]

plan on painting it two tone white and the original medium green. I will use enamel.

If you haven't painted before, use BC/CC. It will be more forgiving. Enamel takes some skill to shoot and get it to lay right.Enamel will also run easier than BC. Etch prime or epoxy any bare metal, prime and block the complete truck, and before painting, seal the truck. I have sen guys paint over old paint and spots of primer and it can show thru the new. even if you don't prime the complete truck you need to seal the complete truck before painting. This gives the new paint a fresh canvas and also will help with any problems that may arise between incompatability between the old paint and the new paint. All in all...for all materials, figure $1000-$1500. When I painted my truck Prowler Orange it was almost $600 a gallon. But then again it has a lot of pearl in it and it is getting into the red shades. And for some reason reds are the most expensive. Whites and greens will be considerably less.

Kevin

[Rick Mills]

Originally Posted by 70GMCer

I ended up using 2 Gal urathane paint & 1 gal urathane clear. 3 coats of paint & 3 coats of clear using an HVLP gun. I thined the clear more than the paint. I also did under the hood & door jams. Did not do inside of the bed, as I lined it. I also used 1 gal epoxy primer sealer. Total job with all materials costs me about $400.00. This was for a lwb truck.......

Here's where I got most of my materials.......This is the 3rd vehicle I've painted using this product.

http://smartshoppersinc.com/

Most on here will most likely say, NO WAY!!

So here I am just 'cruzin' around the site to see what everyone is doing and 'BAM'... here's something I can really use. I'm thinkin... "I can't paint... better save my pennies for a couple years."
Now I'm seein this cool lookin ride and wondering if 'joe average' me can do this.
Price is right! I have a paint gun and a box of stuff a friend gave me before he moved. Hmmmmmm. Maybe - just maybe.....
THANX!
<Didn't mean to steal the thread or anything>

[70GMCer]

It's not as hard as you think.....Just take your time......

[Mike 85]

Just a quick note.
If you plan on covering the existing paint be it lacquer or enamel.
Shoot your first coat of epoxy unreduced.
The urethane reducer used can cause you a world of trouble if you have sand thrus or thin areas on the old paint. Lifting,wrinkling and about a million other problems can occur,So, Keep the first coat straight.
Paint work today is a LOT easier than it use to be and yeah,a lot of "Joe's" are DIY. Just take some time and STUDY about what your doing and become familiar with the products and terminology used. With the Internet,It's a different world and the average joe has some of the best painters at his disposal. It's just a LOT of WORK. PERIOD.
So if your not into "work",Best save your penny's.

[Foosified]

Thanks for all the help guys... should turn out pretty good if I follow the how too's and take my time. Is there any HVLP gun out therefor a decent price for the avg. joe??