clutch for 250 3 speed

[gouldie]

i just got my truck on the road but the clutch slips, a lot. i went online to autozone, advanced and napa but they have a couple different diameters to choose from after i fill out out all the vehicle info.

if anyone can tell me the diameter or part number would be appreciated.

i have a 67 c10 with the 250 and 3 on the tree.

thanks in advanced,

chris

[gouldie]

also my carb has been leaking fuel from the bowl. i replaced the gasket but it still does it. would it be a bad idea to use rtv to seal it?

[Americanrider]

It should be the smaller clutch, 10.5 in. unless someone has swapped it out.

Gas dripping over a hot manifold is NOT GOOD.... fix it right or risk watching your 67 burn to the ground. Get a new carb or have it re-built.

[Tx Firefighter]

Probably, the carb housing is warped from over tightening in the past. You can dissassemble the carb and lap the housings flat using a sheet of fine sandpaper on a piece of glass with WD40 as a lubricant. That will make it flat again. Use a new gasket when reassembling. Also, check float level, it may be too high.

RTV has no place anywhere near a carburetor. Do not use it.

[Fred T]

To help with the leaky Rochester one barrel:

The Rochester B has a major problem, and several others which have been created by Dr. Goodpliers (Mr. Goodwrench's evil twin ). The major problem (as mentioned earlier in this post) is warped castings. Rochester used only 4 screws to hold the airhorn (top casting) to the bowl center casting). 8 should probably have been used. Clean the castings, then assemble the airhorn to the bowl WITHOUT a gasket, and hold so that the assembly is between you and a lighted light bulb. If you see light, the castings are warped.

The correct way to solve this problem is with an oven and some simple jigs which are easy to make. Using a feeler gauge, measure the distance between the two castings. After placing the assembly in the jig, tighten the jig to remove 0.003 as measured by the feeler gauge. Heat the assembly in an oven at 400 degrees F. for 1 hour. Allow to completely cool. Repeat this process until the castings are true.

The induced problems occur because the commercial rebuilders interchange parts on these carbs with no regard to jetting or the pressed-in airbleeds (different for different years, car or truck, transmission type, etc.).

The fact that your carb does have a tag may mean Dr. Goodpliers has not yet seen your carb, and if you don't mind caring for the warpage, it may be useable after a rebuild.

If looking for a kit, take the number from the tag AND YOUR OLD ACCELERATOR PUMP with you to the parts house. The cheaper kits will not have a pump - avoid. The better kits will have a pump BUT IT WILL BE THE INCORRECT NEWER STYLE PUMP - avoid. Your pump is the old style where the top stem of the pump is flat metal with a retangular slot. The pump arm is inserted through the slot and held in place by a spring. The new style pump has a round stem with the pump arm sliding over the stem. They are not interchangable!!! Since the kits are packaged with a see-through cover, make sure the pump in the kit is like your pump.

The best kits will contain the correct pump, as well as the correct main jet, power piston spring, power valve, etc.

If you have difficulty acquiring a suitable kit locally, there are specialty companies which produce such kits. They are available.