truck smokes Help!!!

[72 Cheyenne402]

My truck smokes when it's running, I thought it was just maybe a carb issue (I am running a 750 AFB) or it just neens to be ran. I'm not sure, I donot have it taged right now and just drive it around my nieghborhod and land any Ideas?

I am in the process of rebuilding it and gathering parts right now.

[MXmaniac]

Putting in new valve seals may stop it.

[RACINJASON22]

White, blue, or black??? RJ22

[Longhorn Man]

How old is the gas?
How old is the oil?
How does it run?
What color smoke is it, and how much?

[72 Cheyenne402]

It runs really good, oil is two months old mobil 10w30, White and a little of it while at ittle and more when you hit the gas.

[cdowns]

if you're only running it for a short time its probablly a combination of additives in the gas and moisture in the engine and exhaust system

[72 Cheyenne402]

I run it for a short amount of time and park it. If I was going to start driving it on a regular basis would this stop or is there something I need to do?

[Longhorn Man]

Check the oil for coolant, it'd look like chocolate milk on the dip stick... also check the coolant for oil in it.
Although, I agree it may just need run a bit, get it up to op temp.

[72 Cheyenne402]

no oil in the coolant and the dipstick is kinf of clear tented oil looking

[Longhorn Man]

I'd say drive it 10 miles, easy in town driving, get it up to temp, see if it goes away.
Idling in the yard probably won't do enough.

[Dave67]

tell it to try the patch, or nicotine gum
Sorry, I just had to!

[GREASEMONKEY72]

if its the original engine you should be running 20-50w oil and if its whiteish smoke it probly is the vavle stem seals, i had the same problem it would smoke a bit on start up and if i reved it so drive it around a bit get it up to temp maybe get on it a few times and clean/run it out then when you get back shut it down and let it sit a for a while then restart it and see what happens and for what its worth the valve stem seals arent hard to replace its just time consuming and you should take your time and do it right

goodluck

[GREASEMONKEY72]

Originally Posted by Dave67

tell it to try the patch, or nicotine gum
Sorry, I just had to!

[Longhorn Man]

low life, everything you just said goes against everything I have ever learned about oils in the whole time I have been turning wrenches. (my whole life)
Original engine should use 5/20 or 5/30 if under 20 degrees10W or 5/30 for 0 to 60 degrees, or 20w ,10/30, 10/40 or 20/40 from 20 degrees up to 100 degrees.
In modern talk, 10/30 with it's new additives and the like, is more than fine. if it is real cold, like canadian cold, then a 5/30 is a good idea.
Propoer additives are not only a good idea, but is the basis of a good oil. I'm not talkin adding lucas or some other crap on top of the oil, (unless we are talking about adding zink... which is almost manditory with new oils) I'm talkin the oil makers when blending the oils adding additives. I would NEVER recomend 7000 to 9000 on any mineral based oils without a lab test... only synthetics can do that. If conventional oils could do that, then synthetics would ge out of buisness.

All this is a moot point anyways.... I've never seen OIL burn WHITE in an engine. I've seen fuel burn white, but it's normally diesel.

[Litemup]

Longhorn man has got it, I've worked on a lot of cars and I'll always tell ya, white smoke is coolant. Sometimes depending on the top cylinder lube I use it may burn white on initial start up, but I would guess that's not what your problem is.

[mnunn454]

Originally Posted by Litemup

Longhorn man has got it, I've worked on a lot of cars and I'll always tell ya, white smoke is coolant. Sometimes depending on the top cylinder lube I use it may burn white on initial start up, but I would guess that's not what your problem is.

If it's an automatic, sometimes the diaphragm in the vacuum modulator leaks and sucks tranny fluid into the engine. When it does, it burns white too. Easy enough to check though. Just plug the line temporarily and see if it goes away or pull a vacuum leakdown test on the modulator.

However if it smokes more when running than at idle or when decellerating, I'll bet it's a leaky head gasket. A compression test will generally confirm this or rule it out.

If it were blue smoke though, I'd say the rings or the valve guides and/or seals are going or are gone.

[wibilly]

i would just run it and see if it clears up. i'd almost bet it's just condensation from ideling and short trips

[tiggerstoy]

Originally Posted by 72 Cheyenne402

My truck smokes when it's running, I thought it was just maybe a carb issue (I am running a 750 AFB) or it just neens to be ran. I'm not sure, I donot have it taged right now and just drive it around my nieghborhod and land any Ideas?

I am in the process of rebuilding it and gathering parts right now.

i think you should look at changing your valve seats, that will give you white smoke, a little while idle, then a cough of smoke when you give it a shot of fuel.....oil ring's will give you a steady, heavy cloud of smoke while under idle, and just get's worst while driving, or under acceleration.

[72 Cheyenne402]

Thank you guys for helping me out. I and a certified mechanic (friend of my Uncle's) rebuilt this engine in 99. It was really hard to find a set of closed chamber heads for a 396 at the time. I thought about going aluminum at the time but I didn't have the extra $$. The were som hair line cracks in the heads and I decided to keep the OEM heads and repair them. They went through a new valve job, Valve seats to accomidate the unleaded fuel, New everything, springs, rockers all Crane stuff I bought the best I could get at the time Steal stamped rocker. I invested $1200 just in the heads. But ate the time thats what it was and I wanted it done right.
THe block is 40 over and High dome pistons, chromoly rods and rings. THe crank was trashed so we had to find another crank, Fast bleed lifters and low end cam. I love this Truck Its true american hourse power monster. It may have 25,000 on the rebuild.
I used to smoke 5.o mustangs in Huston all day and night. I just want to get it back and better than it ever was
Thanks everybody on the board for all of your help

[Longhorn Man]

it was not a direct atack, and you didn't say synthetic in there untill you midified it tonight at 7:58, it said something else.
My opinions are not based on ingnorence, but based on facts from oil labs... both federal oil labs, and the independant ones we use at work, and also the ones that 3 of our guys use on there race teams. (to include Danica Patric's team, my boss was in her pit crew last year, and on Sarah Fisher's this year)
I didn't seperate my reply properly, the oil weight coment was actually refering to GREASEMONKEY72's post.
While you never said the words, white smoke is oil, the question at hand is about white smoke, which, generally, has nothing to do with oil, so your thick oils, and burn proof oils, have othing to do with it.
yes, in the 60's, they used single weight oils... that's becouse multi weight oils were new, and just starting to be realized. They also used external regulated charging systems, points, and biased ply tires. Not becouse they worked better back in the day, but becouse that was what we had, or the new stuff was untruseted by the general public.
There was no personal attack, I don't do that. If there was a personal attack, i would have called you, and/or your statements, stupid or something. My opening statement was a simple, fact, that everything you just said goes against everything I have ever learned about oils in the whole time I have been turning wrenches. (my whole life)
Of course, this was before you corrected your post and called this oil synthetic.
Had it said synthetic, i would have only mentioned that oil of that thicknes was way too thick, and that i have seen lab tests show that oil this thick has shown upper valve train wear, and camshaft wear. (again, this is not just a guess)
My professional opinion, is that you should NEVER dump in an oil of that thickness... synthetic or otherwise, unless you are limping your motor along instead of fixing/replacing it. Once you get to this point, you are on borrowed time. Sure, you can limp it with gear oil in the crank case, but that doesn't mean it's fixed.

I do not operate in such a way that I put some one down to make my self stand taller

That makes 2 of us... again, no personal attack, just sharing facts as I see them from the creeper, under trucks all day, every day.

[Longhorn Man]

silicone ... I was trying to remember ewhat it was you had called it.
Part of the problem was, I had never even heard of silicone oil.