Question for our gauge experts out there

[XXL]

Will the "base" gauge set (speedo, center thingie, fuel) bolt up to a "loaded" gauge set's bezel? Obviously, I realize that there would be 4 holes at the bottom of the bezel that didn't have anything in them. I just want to know if they'll even bolt up together.

Also, if I were to convert from base instrument panel to the full panel, does the base wiring harness/plug still work for the base gauges? That is, can I swap panels and my gas, signal indicators, high beam indicator, etc., still work... and I would just have 4 gauges on the bottom that weren't working??

Thanks in advance,

Kenneth

[tom hand]

This page has most of the imformation you asked for.



http://www.gmcpaulstruckparts.com/Tech%20Tips1.htm

[Hutch]

You are trying to confuse everbody right :-)

The wiring for the connector which plugs into the printed circuit on the backside of the guage panel and indicator panel are different.
What I mean is they are the same physical demisions (the connector) but the wires are located in different places.
In other words: If you are changing from a indicator panel to a guage panel your plug will have to be rewired for the new panel.
It is just a matter of switching around the wires on the connector.

Someone on the board has a link to a diagram which shows what wires go where. I think it is on GMC Pauls website.

[XXL]

Originally posted by Hutch
You are trying to confuse everbody right :-)

Well, sort of

What I'm contemplating in my first question is simply running the base idiot light gauges, but mounting them into a gauge dash panel like this--



That would leave me with 4 holes across the bottom. Does that clarify? As for my second question, it looks like tom hand's link is what I'd need. Thanks Tom!

The two questions are mutually exclusive scenarios of how I might handle my dash gauge issues.

Thanks,

Kenneth

[speeddemon]

You can buy a new pannel with out the holes in the bottom if that will help. They have just started making them. they cost a little more than the full pannel though

[XXL]

Originally posted by speeddemon
You can buy a new pannel with out the holes in the bottom if that will help. They have just started making them. they cost a little more than the full pannel though

NO... I actually WANT the holes there. But not for the factory gauges. I just want to know if the base 3-hole gauges will screw into the fancy 7 hole bezel.

Kenneth

[Mountain Man]

Yes, I put my stock idiot light speedo, and fuel guage set, into a new multi guage bezel. This way you can still use the stock wiring harness and your fuel guage will still work. the bottom holes, you can use to hook up mechanical guages. I think I had to trim some of the tin black medal cover on the back, but they did fit. I pulled the bulbs out of the center idiot light section, and used a clear guage piece out of a used multi gauge dash.

[XXL]

Originally posted by Mountain Man
Yes, I put my stock idiot light speedo, and fuel guage set, into a new multi guage bezel.

Thanks Mountain Man. That answers my question... and the pic helps a lot!

Kenneth

[Smooth68]

What's your plan for the 4 extra holes along the bottom and the turn signal holes? Guages for the bags?

[SCOTI]

I was thinking of doing just the opposite xxl. . . I was wanting to use my beaters stock 3 guage bezel & just mount the factory tach in the center location. Since I'm using mechanical guages for oil psi & water temp I really don't have a use for the remaining fact guages & I kinda like the look of the flat bezel w/o the extra holes. I figured the wiring schematic would be slightly different.

[XXL]

Originally posted by ProSt68Trk
What's your plan for the 4 extra holes along the bottom and the turn signal holes? Guages for the bags?

I'm still stewing on the ideas... but I was thinking maybe (from left to right) 'fronts' gauge, 'rears' gauge, 'tanks' gauge, and ignition switch. Originally I was planning a later-model column which would have the ignition switch in it. But 1) I already have a perfectly good stock column, and 2) I can't seem to find a model that has all the things I wanted in it (ignition, signals, lights, wipers, PRNDL, etc.). So now I need a place to put the ignition. I've been thinking about CNC'ing something out of aluminum and using those Classic Instrument gauges I posted in the other thread... but they're expensive and, again, I've already got perfectly good gauges. And, last but not least, I picked up a set of the white face gauge inserts from the guy on Ebay. So I was contemplating my existing gauges and just replacing the bezel (my current bezel is foo).

{phew... that was a lot}

Kenneth

[jay-dawg]

sup kenneth,
I was thinking of the same setup but probably will drill the holes in my 3 hole dash to fit the air guages since I think they are smaller. We'll see, I'm still a long ways off from that.

jay

[XXL]

Originally posted by jay-dawg
sup kenneth,
I was thinking of the same setup but probably will drill the holes in my 3 hole dash to fit the air guages since I think they are smaller. We'll see, I'm still a long ways off from that.

jay

When I had a 2-way valve system on my truck, I had the gauge (double needle) and two switches in the dash on the right side. I was planning to mirror that on the left when I went to a 4-way. But I then thought I wanted to hide all that stuff as it's pretty "busy" looking and my dash is now anything but busy looking now that it's a giant surfboard. They worked fine there though. Easy access and out of the way. I'll try to take a shot of the existing bezel so you can see how I had them laid out.

Any other ideas, anyone?

Kenneth

[Smooth68]

It's just me but the reason I started smoothing my dash and with a dash as smooth as yours, I'd want to hide everything possible. I guess your trying to do that but seeing the igintion switch out in the open just doesn't fit with the smooth style. I know...I'm a fine one to be talking, I still don't have a permenat location for my ignition either.

Btw - do you still have your old switches from the 2-way system? or was making a 4-way system accomplished by adding 2 more 2-ways?

[XXL]

Originally posted by ProSt68Trk
It's just me but the reason I started smoothing my dash and with a dash as smooth as yours, I'd want to hide everything possible. I guess your trying to do that but seeing the igintion switch out in the open just doesn't fit with the smooth style. I know...I'm a fine one to be talking, I still don't have a permenat location for my ignition either.

Btw - do you still have your old switches from the 2-way system? or was making a 4-way system accomplished by adding 2 more 2-ways?

I absolutely agree. I'm just brainstorming (or not ) for ideas on how to resolve where to put the necessities-- lights, wipers, and ignition. I don't have any plans for a console at this point so... I was even thinking of something overhead but that might look a little too "Blue Thunder" to me.

On the switches, etc., The RideTech system is expanded from 2 to 4-way by adding a second solenoid block. The actual electric switches they offered had changed styles since I bought the first ones so I got an extra pair of the new style. The old switches and about a dozen "samples" I got from the switch manufacturer (I have a total mind block on the manufacturer right now. I'll let you know if I think of it).

Kenneth

[XXL]

Originally posted by XXL
I'll try to take a shot of the existing bezel so you can see how I had them laid out.

Here's a pic of how I mounted the dual needle air gauge and front and rear switches when I had a dual valve setup...

Kenneth

[jay-dawg]

Originally posted by XXL


Here's a pic of how I mounted the dual needle air gauge and front and rear switches when I had a dual valve setup...

Kenneth

Kenneth,

You are a man of your word....awesome. This will be going to my tech file. What did u use? a dremel?

[XXL]

Originally posted by jay-dawg
What did u use? a dremel?

Correcto! Cut small and use a flat file to do the final trimming. It's easier to make the hole bigger than to make it smaller (and how exactly do I know this? ).

Kenneth

[jay-dawg]

ok...contemplating some more here...I saw zkast's truck with these new seats and maybe I could put the switches and guages in the fold down arm rest. Maybe you could put the accesorry switches in there....yeah I know...it's a stretch. If I do put these seats, it will be minus the head rests:

[XXL]

jay-dawg I like those seats a lot, and I agree with you about the headrests. As for putting the gauges in the center section, it really depends on what kind of gauges you go with. Mine are mechanical gauges, so they have 1/8" air lines running to them. The folding up and down of the center might pinch a line... or worse, break one (since they're in the air system, if the line breaks, that corner of the truck lowers itself to the ground ). But if you go with electric gauges and use sending units for the pressure info, then you'll only be running wires into the center of the seat, which would work just fine.

BTW, what is that seat out of? Pre-99 Tahoe? Whatever it is, if anyone in the MA area has one of these in excellent condition, from a non-smoker's vehicle, and in the same gray material, I'd be interested if you're selling (it's a stretch, but I thought I'd ask anyway).

Keep us posted!

Kenneth

[jay-dawg]

sup kenneth,

here's the info on the seats:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=22178

BTW, got some work done on the truck. I took out the rear shocks and coils and set it down on the axle (I left the bumpstop in). I tell you, it's getting me excited seeing the backend that low. I'd post some pics but I dont have a digi.

jay