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04-12-2007, 03:57 PM | #1 |
1967 C10 SWB
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 136
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1970 C10 Suspension Questions
1.) I have a 1970 C10 LWB & SWB. I wanted to take the traling arms and rearend out of the LWB and rebuild them and put them into the SWB. They are both 12 bolt GM. Will the LWB arms and rearend bolt right in?
2.) The top A arms in the front are loose right were the upper cotrol arm shaft goes through it. When I jack the front end up and shake the tire, the top A arm moves about 1/2 inch. I noticed that you can order just the upper control arm assembly and the top A arm. I know it will be hard to say for you guys without looking, but do you think I need a new A arm or just a new arm assembly? If I need a new A arm, what are the advantages of upgrading to a tubler one from like CPP? For clearity, I am using the LWB for parts. I want to put the LWB rearend into the SWB. I could also use the A arms for the LWB for the SWB Thanks, Vex Last edited by vexvader; 04-12-2007 at 04:00 PM. |
04-12-2007, 04:26 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: knoxville tn
Posts: 1,013
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Re: 1970 C10 Suspension Questions
Hello the rear should work i dont know about the trailing arms but check the bushings in the trailing arms while the rear is out. also sounds like you got a a frame bushing bad in the front and yes they will interchange. the bushings screw in the aframe need pics
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nickle and dime |
04-12-2007, 05:07 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: WI,USA
Posts: 495
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Re: 1970 C10 Suspension Questions
As far as the trailing arms go,SWB & LWB are the same.
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69 Lwb C-10 402/700R4 70 Lwb C-10 250/3pd Wisc. |
04-12-2007, 05:22 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 3,728
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Re: 1970 C10 Suspension Questions
You can use the back half stuff, it's all the same.
You shouldn't need new arms, just need to rebuild them. The upper shaft kit is like $35 a side at NAPA. If you are going to do anything like bags, or drop springs, just get all new ball joints and tie rod ends to go with new upper and lower shafts. Your truck will handle so much better.
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New Project: 1966 LWB C20 Plans: 1/2 ton conversion Dropmember front Dropmember rear Corvette discs Restored raised bed http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4295210 |
04-12-2007, 10:18 PM | #5 |
1967 C10 SWB
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 136
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Re: 1970 C10 Suspension Questions
Thanks guys. I pressure washed 37 years of crud off the front suspension today. I think my truck is about 100 pounds lighter. It does look like the A arms are OK. So I will get some new upper shaft kits and replace them and let you know how it goes. The ball joints and tie rod ends look OK. I plan to buy a whole new frount end rebuild and disk break kit soon so I don't want to do too much. Do you guys recomend CPP? They seem to have good prices and there stuff looks like good quality.
Thanks, Vex |
04-12-2007, 11:00 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 3,728
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Re: 1970 C10 Suspension Questions
I would say ECE seems better. I got all my stuff from CPP and had shipping issues and the track bar mount is a little off. I've heard nothing but good things about ECE though.
For stuff like the shaft kits, just go to NAPA unless you don't have one.
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New Project: 1966 LWB C20 Plans: 1/2 ton conversion Dropmember front Dropmember rear Corvette discs Restored raised bed http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4295210 |
04-14-2007, 11:02 AM | #7 |
1967 C10 SWB
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 136
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Re: 1970 C10 Suspension Questions
To replace the top a amr assemblies i have to take apart the entire front suspesion right? Take off the spindle and top ball joint? Are you happy with the quality of CPP stuff? It looks pretty good.
VV Last edited by vexvader; 04-14-2007 at 11:03 AM. |
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