Power brakes! Woo Hoo!

[pritch]

I spent the day installing power brakes on the old Panel. First things first, though. I wanted to keep the same master cylinder that was on the booster I used, so I had to rebuild it. It was pretty easy to do. I cleaned up all the parts real good with alcohol and blew it all out good. Remove the circlip that holds the piston in and the first piston springs right out. A little blast of air in the front port and the second piston comes out.


Next, remove the brass seats. The rebuild kit had 2 self-tapping screws to run into the seats. I hope this works.



Use 2 big flat screwdrivers under the self-tappers like this. The seats popped right out.


I was always taught to hone the bore of the master cyl., but since I don't have one, I make do by letting a big piece of steel wool wrap up on a drill bit, and then give it some in and out. Be careful that there is plenty of steel wool covering the end of the drill bit.



Install the new check valves and seats. Press the new seats in by using the fitting on the brake line.



Install the new rubber cups on the second piston and lube with clean brake fluid and put it in the cyl. The rebuild kit comes with a whole new 1st piston, so after lubing it, in it goes. Replace the circlip.



Bench bleed, and it's a done deal. I had extra of the short lines that run from the master to the proportioning valve block, so I used them to bend around back into the resivors.

[pritch]

Installing the brake booster was a PITA. I had to pull out the dash and E-brake assy (hand brake-'68) to get to the rod bolt. Pretty much had to swear that bolt out. The hardest part was adjusting the brake light switch. I broke the one that was there. Good thing I had a spare.



Now the wire is too short to reach.



Now I know why there was a short wire connected to the master cyl I got with the booster. I wonder if this wire was the cure on all years of these trucks.



All in all, a good day of wrenching. I'm not 100% finished. I need to build a brace for the air cleaner, and figure out why it seems like my brake pedal don't return like it should. I know it's supposed to be lower, but it seems a little sticky. But everything works! I didn't really do a full-on test drive, but back and forth in the driveway it stops on a dime and leaves 7 cents change.

[1BadSS]

Did you retain the same brake lines in the swap, from manual to power?

[WorkinLonghorn]

Nice post Pritch,thanks.
>>They sell those brake hones for real cheap (around $10 or less?) I think you'd get a better and longer lasting surface in there if you used one.JMHO. I like everything just right on the brakes,in fact I would have used a new unit.

[pritch]

Yes, I was able to use the original brake lines. Just carefully straighten them out and then bend them to fit. Another half inch farther away and I don't think they would reach, though.

And I used this master cyl because I wasn't real sure the one I had was compatible with the booster. I know it is now, and it's in a lot better shape than the one I rebuilt. When I do my frame-off I'll get all new, but this'll be good for now. Oh, and good call on the cyl. hone. I meant to pick one up at the parts store this morning, but I forgot.