Brake Conversion question? 69-71 swap

[OLDIRON69]

I have a '69 1/2 ton C10 with power drum all the way around. I plan to completely rebuild the front suspension on the '71 donor I have (it is just the rolling frame) and then swap the whole front suspension setup to the '69. My Q's are:

1. Will the distribution valve be useless with the new disc brakes?
2. Will my '69 MC and Brake booster be fine to use or do I need a new MC?
3. Will I need to swap out all the brake lines from the '71 disc/drum to the 69?


I have done search after search and have read so many different responses about all the above that I really could use some help PLEASE! I will have about $500 in the complete front suspension rebuild, I have $150 in the disc and steering parts/frame from the '71. I know the '69 could use a rebuild of the front end, so rebuilding up the '71 and swapping it over to the '69 is the best deal...I hope. My main concern is the brake lines,prop valve and if I need to replace all the brake lines from the '71.

[fatboys69]

I did the 71-72 swap on my 69 and ended up using the prop. valve from the 72. I bought a new MC and booster for a 72 and you will have to use the brake lines form the 71. The lines hook up differently and have different size fittings on the end. I bit the bullet and ordered new front brake lines from LMC. I was like you, I got the whole front end and rear end stuff for $350.00.
By the time I bought new upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and centerlink section ( 71-72's use a different size ball joint and tie rods so it will not interchange ), I end up with about $600-$700 total and a lot of my labor. Expensive? Yeah but I got disc brakes and 5 lug's.

[OLDIRON69]

Is the M/C and Brake booster from a '71 a must? Thanks for the info. That's what I'm trying to accomplish 5 lug and safety!

[fatboys69]

I think the resivior sizes are different ( drum MC has equal sized bowls and the disc, one bowl is larger than the other). If I remember correctly.

[OLDIRON69]

I may already have a disc M/C on my truck, the front resevoir on mine is larger than the rear. I'll have to double check to make sure. The PO did some weird stuff to the truck before I got it.

[lilred67]

if you have a power brake booster on your '69 you can reuse it.
but i would change the master cylinder and the proportioning valve to the disc brake set up.

[OLDIRON69]

For a run down so I know what else I need.
1. '71 Brake lines for disc set up.
2. prop. valve/master cylinder
3. MORE TIME/MONEY!

Thanks guys!

[fatboys69]

does the rooler frame still have the brake lines on it ?? if so you can use them, and I would do as lilred67 suggested. Get the coorect MC and Prop. valve. SAFETY FIRST !! ( and if it is worth doin', it's worth doin right !!) Trust me ( i've learned from experience!!) you will be happier in the long run to do it right the 1st time

[OLDIRON69]

It has the majority of the lines, it has just been in the elements since '87 and they may be too far gone from the rust, I prolly ought to just clean them up and see. It would save me some green.

[fatboys69]

I would check them real good, especially if the lines have been open. Don't forget to get new rubber lines also !!

[fatboys69]

check out VDOG's thread about his upgrade

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=236411

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Fatboys69 has it right! I've seen mixed reveiws on this subject but saftey is first not the pocket book. Take his advise and everybody elses for that matter as they are all of the same mind.

esll.

[OLDIRON69]

After working onit last night, I'm going to order new lines. They are in too bad of shape to even consider using. The upper control arm/lower arms are in good shape, bushings need replaced. Can you buy just the bushings? This was a low mile truck and their is no wear on any of the steering components. I hate to pay $30+ for a upper control arm shaft/kit, when all I really need is the rubber bushing. The truck was a farm truck in west Texas and literally only had around 20-30,000 miles on the frame. I saw the cab and bed that came off of it yrs. ago...It had never been registered! Now, looking for good quality brake lines and prop. valve. Can I rob a prop valve off a 73-87 if it was a disc brake truck?

[OLDIRON69]

One little problem I found yesterday on the '71 rolling frame, the PS lower control arm is trashed! If I just change the upper and lower ball joints to '71 stuff and use the steering components from the '71 will that work,basically what I'm wondering is are the upper and lower control arms the same on 69 and 71? Except the ball joints being different?? All my '69 stuff is in good shape, I JUST WANT FRONT DISC and I have the '71 donor for the spindles,rotors,calipers etc. and it is all torn down and ready to be rebuilt. The lower control arm on the '69 being the same except the ball joint will awnser my question.

I read that all I really need anyway is to swap the upper and loer ball joints to '71..on the '69 and use the steering from the '71. I have new "disc" brake lines in the works, so this is been the thorn in the side having the bad '71 lower control arm.

[fatboys69]

you can just trade out the ball joints ( the control arms are the same ),
then use the 71 disc brake "stuff". Don't forget you have to change tie rod ends to fit the 71 spindles. The center link will need to b changed also to the 71 style ( it uses the same size tie rod ends that attach to the spindles).

[OLDIRON69]

fatboys69, thanks!! I wasn't sure. Even with my truck sitting side by side with the frame I wasn't sure. I took all the steering components minus the manual gear box off the '71 frame. I'll just use my control arms. I'm just glad they are the same. I'm replacing the tierod ends,sleeves and "A" frame bushings with new. Do they sell just the rubber bushings, the tubes look fine and they are pricey, just the rubber is old and cracked from the elements. \\Thanks in advance//!!

[fatboys69]

Don't know if they sell just the bushings, I know I had to put a lower control arm shaft kit in mine,all it needed was the rubber "cups" , but all I could get was the entire kit , so mine got all new parts. I would rather spend a little extra time & $$ up front to know that everything is new and right. I figure if I do it now I will never have to do it again for as long as I own the truck ( and hopefully my son won't have to fix it after I give it to him )

[OLDIRON69]

This is true, with all the new tie rods,ball joints etc. I might as well replace it all. I have looked at a few different places, who has a good price on the proportioning valve??

[fatboys69]

I personnally do not do Advance, I use either Napa, Autozone or O'Rielleys.
If you can't locate it there then you will probably have to go to a67-72 Truck Source ( unless you want to put the aftermarket adjustable ones on ).

[OLDIRON69]

http://www.lategreatchevy.com/produc...dept%5Fid=1042


What do you think about this one? I have a guy that makes all my hydraulic lines for the company I work for that said he will make all my brake lines for $0.00! He just needs the assembly off the '71 for a pattern. He made me a braided line for my fuel tank to carb and it was nice, so I may just have to take him up on it. The bracket that holds the flex line to the hard line will be swapped to the '69 crossmember, I just hope he has the banjo fittings that bolt to the caliper. I wonder how it would work with all braided lines on the truck? I guess pressure is the key factor, SS hard lines and flex lines at the control arm will probably be my best bet, just for ease and replacement, if ever needed.

[OLDIRON69]

It's been a while, I finally have all new brake parts and I ordered new brake lines from LMC. Since my truck is a '69...I'm a little lost at how my brake lines will route now that they are '71 for my disc set up. Is their a diagram anywhere?? Any help would be appreciated. BTW, the LMC stuff looks like quality parts.