04-21-2007, 03:26 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Morro Bay C.A
Posts: 179
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lower ball joint
im having a heck of a time getting my lower ball joint off of the spindle... the ball joint is the origional. i cracked the top one loose using a spreader tool i made out of a big nut and bolt and a sleeve but this tool wont budge the bottom joint. i know that i need to take the lower control arm to the shop to remove and replace the new joint from the control arm but i cant even get it loose from the spindle...
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'69 C10 SWB 350 edelbrock int/carb .420 .442 cam 700r4 70 lwb c10 work truck 250 I6 with two inch lift springs and a two inch bodylift and 33/12.5s |
04-21-2007, 03:41 PM | #2 |
Hellasick
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Death Moans, IA
Posts: 876
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Re: lower ball joint
there are some threads around here about this, but I'll tell ya anyway.
first go to your local parts store, Oreilly, AutoZone, AdvanceAuto etc. and rent one of the ball joint seperators. Rent a ball joint press while you are there. I found the best place for the seperator to go is under the arm for the tierod. Get out yer 4lb Ford wrench and beat the piss out of it. I used a 24oz ballpeen hammer and the 4lb has gotta work faster. use the press to remove/install it from the control arm. They work slicker than snot. and much easier than taking the arm to the shop.
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I keep two MAGNUMS in my desk. One's a gun, and I keep it loaded. The other's a bottle and it keeps ME loaded. I'm Tracer Bullet. (Calvin and Hobbes) This life was a test. It was only a test. If this had been an actual life, you would have received instructions on where to go and what to do. RED meat is not bad for you...FUZZY BLUE/GREEN MEAT is bad for you!!!!!!!!!!!!! BUILT FORD TOUGH WITH CHEVY STUFF--sticker at Goodguys Last edited by 70C10Toejam; 04-21-2007 at 03:42 PM. |
04-21-2007, 04:07 PM | #3 |
Son of a gun
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas
Posts: 1,636
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Re: lower ball joint
Get a pickle fork and make sure you drive it in up high right under the spindle. With the biggest BFH you got in the toolbox. Pound, Pound, pound, then huff a couple of times, pound, pound, pound, cuss, pound again and it'll come loose.
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04-21-2007, 05:15 PM | #4 |
Resident Absorber
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: WI
Posts: 131
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Re: lower ball joint
get your BFH, you don't need the pickle fork. I've done alot of ball joints, and I found the easiest, and quickest way on this type of suspension is to hit the spindle.. see below
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04-21-2007, 05:16 PM | #5 |
Resident Absorber
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: WI
Posts: 131
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Re: lower ball joint
usually only takes 3-5 hard wacks
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The best offense is a better DEFENSE! |
04-21-2007, 08:11 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Morro Bay C.A
Posts: 179
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Re: lower ball joint
yeah its the origional ball joint.. i used everyone of my pickle forks, cracked at them with reular clay hammers, baby sledge fu$%... still didnt do anything.. i made a spreader tool even and i bent the 1/2 grade 8 bolt that i made it out of. i tried torching it too with all of the above and nothing...
so... i went and got a five inch cutting wheel for my grider and cut the shaft of the ball joint in between the spindle and the controll arm cuz i am not re using the stock drum spindle and im not reusing the ball joint so i realized i was wasting my time.. i than took my c press and popped the remaining ball joint out of the control arm. over all the ball joints and pitman arm and tie rods and stuff this is the only one where a bfh, multiple pickle fork, a spreader tool and a torch have failed me. i later looked and noticed the ball joint shaft was rusted to the inside of the spindle a little...
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'69 C10 SWB 350 edelbrock int/carb .420 .442 cam 700r4 70 lwb c10 work truck 250 I6 with two inch lift springs and a two inch bodylift and 33/12.5s |
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