body/tub support how to?? replacing floor,rockers.........

[DURRTY]

I finished separating the frame and body. I have all the sheet metal I need to replace the floor rocker boxes inner outer rockers pillars etc. What have you done to support the font half of the body while replacing all this?? My frame and axels are going out to be stripped sealed and painted. and it seems much easier to work the body while its up and off the frame. I am going to put the top on it and line it up and move the bracing inside so i can put the doors on for alignment when needed. I have plenty of HD steel saw horses that i can cut and change the size of as i need. I don't know were to support it so that its secure and also going to keep the body as straight and level as possible. thanks for any of your ideas and help.

here are some pics of what im working with now. BTW its not on those jack stands now that was only temporary its fully supported by saw horses.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Don't shoot the messenger, I am sure there are ways to do it off the
frame like your is now, but I was always told to do it while the frame
was still under it and with the top on to keep everything squared up.

[DURRTY]

I'm not looking to argue or "shoot the messenger" at all!!

I had that feeling that maybe it should be on the frame. At the same time, if the top and doors are on wont that show if its aligned? I dont know. my frame should be less than a week out.
I have never done this much body work ever. hell I have
never had anything off the frame before so this is all new and I will take all advice and info that i can get.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Originally Posted by DURRTY

I'm not looking to argue or "shoot the messenger" at all!!

Well I am in no way an expert, just what I have heard here since
2004. Like I said there are ways to do it as it sits now. I am just not
very familiar with how to do / have not actually done it either. Craig

[JUSBLAZ]

Originally Posted by LUV2XCLR8

I was always told to do it while the frame
was still under it and with the top on to keep everything squared up.

Is it possible to take it off with a full cage installed? I've always wondered what are the best wasy to remove the tub, but keeping it square.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Again, just what I hear here, doors and tailgate keep it square during tub
removal. Braces can be made using measurements found in threads here.
If it has a full cage that will help keep it square, assuming it was square in
the beginning when that was 1st installed. An assembly manual has alot of
good measurements in it and may be very handy in these types of builds.

[jaros44sr]

If you could wait till your frame comes back, I think you would end up with a better final product. I had mine supported with a pipe that went across my work shop and hung the cowl from that, there is a fender bolt hole in the rite location and you still have access to the hinge bolts, BUT I had a frame under it.

A wise man said to do one side at a time, and that worked for me. The door is the key, since you want it to open and close when your dun. It would be a nice time to put new body mounts under it...

I'm sure you can find lots to do until your frame comes back. I'm sure I left things out but others will give you advice as well. Sit back, read and enjoy the ride. It is what it is or what you make of it. JMHO J.

[70rs/ss]

Did you get that in Utah??? I've never seen that much rust personally (in person just picts from back east). I live about 3-4 hours south of you, want to by my nice rust free AZ K5? Kinda joking but wow, I'd say if it is off of the frame already, it's too late to put it back together, just use the saw horses on the body mounts and make the doors open and close then brace it up and cut!! Good luck!

[Chevyman63]

Originally Posted by jaros44

If you could wait till your frame comes back, I think you would end up with a better final product. I had mine supported with a pipe that went across my work shop and hung the cowl from that, there is a fender bolt hole in the rite location and you still have access to the hinge bolts, BUT I had a frame under it.

A wise man said to do one side at a time, and that worked for me. The door is the key, since you want it to open and close when your dun. It would be a nice time to put new body mounts under it...

I'm sure you can find lots to do until your frame comes back. I'm sure I left things out but others will give you advice as well. Sit back, read and enjoy the ride. It is what it is or what you make of it. JMHO J.

[JJorgensen52]

When I had my Typhoon done (first project, didn't tackle the sheet metal on that) the shop I had doing it absolutely refused to touch it without a chassis under it. So I would say that is the way to do it.

Although, I am getting a little crazier with my projects these days

[swyfor5]

Oh, man. Looks like fun to me, been researching this for months. Keeep up with the good pic's!

[DURRTY]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

Did you get that in Utah??? I've never seen that much rust personally (in person just picts from back east). I live about 3-4 hours south of you, want to by my nice rust free AZ K5?

Yeah I bought here in SLC as far as I know its been in utah for its lifetime.... and they dump ton upon ton of salt on the roads here so it didn't surprise me. All the exterior sheet metal is good on it. some one took the trouble to put a new hood on it and a front fender and some half way decent patch work on the rear plus a good engine and tranny. This was the best of 3 I looked at so..............

I'm going to definitely wait until its back on the frame with the fresh body mounts and bolts to mess with the sheet metal. I'm going to run new fuel and brake lines as soon as its stripped primed sealed and painted.


this adds a couple weeks to the build !!!DAMN!!! lol Ill have to pull it back off the frame to properly seal up the bottom.

If you have a tub for sale let me know. Ill take a front half with or with out a firewall.