Smoking L/H rear wheel

[Sammy]

This truck had set for a long time before, I believe. I previously had drained & refilled the 3rd member with oil & had to replace the pinion seal. Saturday I took out about 25-35 MPH after about 1 mile I was informed to look at the rear tire. It was in smoke justy covered & looked extremly warm but no sizzling in sound. Today I pulled the wheel & drum to have a look. Everything looks good & normal except the outter edge of the drum had gotten warm enough to cook the new paint on it. When I put the drum on & tranny in nuetral the drum spins backwards but not forwards. WOuld this be a axle bearing seized or something in the third member? And if it is the axle bearing since this isn't a posi do you just remove the 4 bolts and pull the axle or will I have to pull the differential cover plate for clips. I think this is a 308 rear?? I am going to have to pull the right side anyway since the grease seal is leaking. I'll be doing this probally tomorrow need to get this truck roadworthy for the board meet around the corner. At least this didn't happen 100 miles from home on the side of the road..

[Sammy]

Can someone move this to the 67-72 message forum please?

[msgross]

If it heated up the brake drum then it has to be a brake issue.... Maybe a stuck E-brake or wheel cylinder? If you change the bearings then you have to pull the cover, c clips, and axle. Only costs about $15 to do but the backing plate can stay in place.

[Sammy]

Update: Today I pulled both axles to replace the bearings. That was a job to get the bearings out. Ended up borrowing a skide hammer to pull the bearings out of the housing tubes. One of the grease seals was leaking badly the other had just started recently. Both bearing had some surface rust & pitting on the axles. At the parts store they have what they call a repaired bearing race/set. It sets the new bearing in a slightly different position on the axle. It claims to a 1/4" but looks like its closer to a 1/2". I have to wait for the 2nd bearing to pickup tomorrow. So I can finish reinstalling the axles. I did discover that the cab brake pedal no longer has any slack between the engagement of the brake. So possibly the brake shoe was dragging on the left rear..maybe air was in the line and it isn't slacking off on the brake shoe. As everything inside the drum looks normal and retracted. I can get the drum on without driving it on..Could also try adjusting the pedal rod up a few turns. At present it has one complete full pedal to the top. ?Guess hold the portioning valve button in and rebleed it too. Will post more results after I figure this one out.

[69TowRig]

The parking brake assembly will generally allow the vehicle to back up easier than move forward, usually because it only applies direct pressure to the rear shoe, which is self-energizing in the forward direction. If it was left parked long enough, something probably seized up and kept that shoe dragging for a long time. When you pulled it all apart you probably broke it loose so it should be fine now, grease up all the contact points where the linkages hook together and also where the shoes contact the backing plates.

[Sammy]

Update: Finished installing the new bearings/seals & axles. I left the L rear tire off put the right one on and perched the L one a jack stand. Cranked it up put in D after about 5 min the drum was hot enough to not let your hand stay on more than a sec. Shut it down removed the drum (new Drum). I couldn't see no problems except the fact that it seemed like there was high spots where it drug on the shoes in certain areas. Removed the drum took it to the auto parts store had them true the drum. (by the way it says made in Canada)..Reinstalled the drum took it for a drive now the drum stays warm after a few miles but doesn't get hot to the touch. Just because you bought all new stuff..shoes, drums, cylinders, springs lines the whole shabang does mean it's good stuff. Longer drive tomorrow see how it acts.