First time engine strating

[edmonton72]

I'm going to be starting my engine up for the first time this weekend. What are some things I should since I've never done this before. The engine is a 350, .030 over, stock heads, HEI, RV cam and edelbrock 1406 crab. I've already set the initial timing to 8 degrees btdc. Is there anything I should do before I start it and once it is started. Whats the proper way to break the engine in too.
Thanx in advance.

[Billla]

Looks like a cool engine

Biggest thing is making sure everything's WET - this includes pre-oiling the engine with an electric drill, and manually filling the carb with gas through the bowl vent. Double, triple check your timing - especially since you'll need to R&R the distributor to do the pre-oil.

If it's been on the stand for a while since final ass'y, I would strongly encourage you to put a bit of lube or oil on the front and rear main seals - just squirt some in there.

Lastly, I always add a pint of GM EOS to the oil for insurance.

Man, that's everything I can think of off the top of my head...but it's late/early

[cdowns]

its always nice to have a fire extinguisher handy before you need it

[mrein3]

I did pretty much the same thing you did. New 1406. New pistons, cam, fresh bore (except I made my 350 have 383 cubes with a 400 crank shaft). I followed the directions in the cam box for breaking in the cam. I believe it was on the order of 20 minutes at 2000 rpms. I rigged a temporary tachometer under the hood facing the front of the engine. I had the engine pre-lubed, then twisted its tail. With the new 1406 it fired right up. I ran the r's up to what the cam manufacturer wanted (again I'm not certain but I think it was 2000 rpms) and ran it for what they said. Again I think it was 20 minutes.

Then I set the timing and called it done.

One more note. All the engines I did this to were full of straight 30 weight oil at first. I ran that oil for approximately 500 miles then got it out of there. I've then been running 10w-30 since.

[68C15]

a while back I had a thread on this subject. I will make an attempt to search for it.


I'm not having any luck. I believe it was very thorough. it even covered a trip to the bathroom before the key turn.

[Billla]

You'll want to vary the engine speed during the break-in between 2000 - 3000 RPM; not just a single speed for 20 minutes.

You'll also want to change oil and filter right after the break-in, and then at 50, 100, 500, 1000 and then the regular 3000 mile intervals. Don't be cheap on the oil - it's blood to the engine. Mineral oil only during break-in; no synthetics. If it's a flat tappet cam, Shell Rotella-T oil is our only option these days - and it's multi-vis.

[FarmTruk]

Originally Posted by cdowns

its always nice to have a fire extinguisher handy before you need it

Drat you cdowns. You got me again !!!

Seriously though, that's a great idea.

Be ready to set that timing too. It'll overheat quickly if you don't.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by FarmTruk

Be ready to set that timing too. It'll overheat quickly if you don't.

Static timing should be set to 10-12 degrees; shouldn't need to change it for run-in...

[69halfton]

i just had an engine built (383 stroker) the man who built it has been in buissness for years, he builds many engines for the CASCAR racing series, so i would think he knows his stuff. He told me NO SYNTHETICS, also, the 20 mins at 2000 rpm is a bit out dated,
he said to just drive it, and dont baby it either. he says dont pull out of the drive and go WOT, but you can give a little push now and then.

Drive it like this for a month or so, and then change oil & filter, and your set to go to the dragstrip.

the reason that you can get away with this now, is that everything is machined to be perfect fit, with the advancment of computer technology etc.

the only thing your ACTUALLY breaking in on your motor would be the piston rings.

an old trick that many people used to do when they had new rings was..
take your truck out, and accelerate pretty good up to 50 mph, then back right out of the throttle and let it fall down to 15 mph, then repeat about 5 times.
after that feel free to hammer on your engine all you want.

[manimal]

If you are in a garage, put a fan in front of the radiator to help with air flow. And a s Billa said, vary the engine speed. DONT USE FRAM OIL FILTERS! Use an napa 1061 or wix 51061(same filter),and again use Shell Rotella-T. It does not break down like a standard motor oil does,and still has zinc in it. Good Luck and keep us posted.
-Lance

[manimal]

Originally Posted by 69halfton

i just had an engine built (383 stroker) the man who built it has been in buissness for years, he builds many engines for the CASCAR racing series, so i would think he knows his stuff. He told me NO SYNTHETICS, also, the 20 mins at 2000 rpm is a bit out dated,
he said to just drive it, and dont baby it either. he says dont pull out of the drive and go WOT, but you can give a little push now and then.

Drive it like this for a month or so, and then change oil & filter, and your set to go to the dragstrip.

the reason that you can get away with this now, is that everything is machined to be perfect fit, with the advancment of computer technology etc.

the only thing your ACTUALLY breaking in on your motor would be the piston rings.

an old trick that many people used to do when they had new rings was..
take your truck out, and accelerate pretty good up to 50 mph, then back right out of the throttle and let it fall down to 15 mph, then repeat about 5 times.
after that feel free to hammer on your engine all you want.

I dont agree with that at all unless you are using a solid roller cam. If that were true, then why do the cam manufactures say to "break-in" the cam?
-Lance

[Billla]

Originally Posted by 69halfton

i just had an engine built (383 stroker) the man who built it has been in buissness for years, he builds many engines for the CASCAR racing series, so i would think he knows his stuff. He told me NO SYNTHETICS, also, the 20 mins at 2000 rpm is a bit out dated,
he said to just drive it, and dont baby it either. he says dont pull out of the drive and go WOT, but you can give a little push now and then.

Drive it like this for a month or so, and then change oil & filter, and your set to go to the dragstrip.

the reason that you can get away with this now, is that everything is machined to be perfect fit, with the advancment of computer technology etc.

the only thing your ACTUALLY breaking in on your motor would be the piston rings.

an old trick that many people used to do when they had new rings was..
take your truck out, and accelerate pretty good up to 50 mph, then back right out of the throttle and let it fall down to 15 mph, then repeat about 5 times.
after that feel free to hammer on your engine all you want.

Man, I have to disagree with almost all of this. For the cam break-in, this is against the manufacturer's recommendation. IMHO, I'd do it the way the cam company says. I've put the CompCams instructions at the bottom.

Drive it for a month and change the oil and filter? No, absolutely not. There is all kinds of gunk from assembly lube, etc. that is going to hit that filter. Cut one apart after break-in...it'll be a little scary, but you'll see just how much garbage there is. Oil and filter changes are your friend - the way you treat your engine in the first 20 hours of operation will determine how much power it makes and how long it lasts.

In terms of computer tolerances...we've been holding tolerances in these things to .0005 for a long time. It's become CHEAPER and FASTER to do this - but this hasn't really changed at all.

New moly rings don't require much to seat - they generally seat in the first few minutes. The old driving break-in process still applies IMHO; avoid full-throttle, vary between 30% and 70% throttle, etc. You should drive within these ranges as much as possible for the first 300 miles or so, and then the engine is fully broken in.

I'm not saying your guy is wrong - but he builds engines for a very different purpose than a street engine and with very different parts.

From CompCams:
Camshaft Break-in Procedure
Important: On hydraulic and mechanical (solid) flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs, the inner spring must be removed during break-in. This allows the lifters to establish rotation and develop a good wear pattern. As soon as the engine fires, bring the RPM up to 2000 to 2500 during the first 30 minutes of operation. Slower engine speeds will not supply the camshaft with an adequate amount of oil for the break-in period. The engine RPM may be varied periodically between 2000 to 2500 to direct oil splash different areas of the camshaft. After the 30 minute break-in period, change the oil and filter again to be sure all contaminants and break-in lube are remove from the engine. The inner valve springs can now be replaced.

[OLDCHEV4X4]

When i do this by myself i always hook up a remote starter switch. That way i can run the carb linkage by hand and look for fuel leaks. And i hook up a timing light incase i was way off. And a tach to watch the rpm's. And i have a couple gallons of water ready for when the thermostat opens.(i would take it out for break-in). And a screw driver ready to turn up the idle so i don't have to stand there holding the throttle. And power stearing fluid ready if that got emptyed.
And...And... sorry for all the and's.

[stllookn]

I'm not saying your guy is wrong - but he builds engines for a very different purpose than a street engine and with very different parts.

Guys building race engines that they expect to last about 1000 miles or so do things differently. I have an engine builder that does nothing but circle track "claimer" engines for himself and his son. He spends pretty decent money on them but never expects to keep them around for longer than one season. He won't put steam holes in small block 400 heads because he has never seen the need...I still want them because I want my engine to last 100,000 miles...not just the summer. Just my 0.02.

[69halfton]

sorry, guys,
i do have a roller cam, lifters, rockers...
geuss i forgot to mention that.

and i would only put 20 hours on my engine in the first month,
i cant afford to drive much more then that.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by 69halfton

sorry, guys,
i do have a roller cam, lifters, rockers...
geuss i forgot to mention that.

No worries; roller rocker = VERY different. Sounds like a cool engine!

[edmonton72]

Thanks for all the advice. I'll probably have a buddy come over and help me with this. I got cheap oil in there right now that ill change after i run it for a half hour.
P.S. whats wrong with FRAM filters anyways. We've been using them for years.

[Billla]

Originally Posted by edmonton72

I got cheap oil in there right now that ill change after i run it for a half hour.

First engine start on a $3K (?) engine and you're going cheap on the oil????

MISTAKE not to use Shell Rotella and some EOS, IMHO.

[truckdude239]

i got a fram filter right here that i cut open and they use cardbroad yes cardboard as the end caps in there filters i had a friend who ran fram filters and he had one colpse and his engine went with it and fram would not replace the engine. as for break in 20 mins 1500-2500 rpm change oil then change again at 3000 miles