Disk Brakes - Conversion Kit

[AJ4X4TJ]

Can anyone send me a link to where i can buy disk brakes - conversion kit for my 1970 Blazer.

Right now with 8" lift and 37" Boggers, simply, is NOT stopping and i knew this problem was coming too. The original drum brakes are not doing the job!

I'm not ready to buy heavier axles at the moment even though i know that I'm going to need them one day.

I can't drive my Blazer (which is very sad) until this problem is fixed and please help me out.

Thank you.

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by AJ4X4TJ

Can anyone send me a link to where i can buy disk brakes - conversion kit for my 1970 Blazer.

Right now with 8" lift and 37" Boggers, simply, is NOT stopping and i knew this problem was coming too. The original drum brakes are not doing the job!

I'm not ready to buy heavier axles at the moment even though i know that I'm going to need them one day.

I can't drive my Blazer (which is very sad) until this problem is fixed and please help me out.

Thank you.

Do you have drums up front? If disc, I would start with a hydroboost unit. That will help a bunch to start with. We have aftermarket bolt in units available. Not sure there is anything out there except later factory stuff right now. I am working on a big brake kit for my '69 K5 right now.

Mike

[69TowRig]

Coming from someone that converted his to power disc brakes:

Your EASIEST and fastest solution is to get a later-model disc brake axle and swap it in. Trust me. I converted mine with the knuckles and outers from an '84, and while it had the desired effect, the amount of time and labor that went into it was a bit much. Get a later model (73+) Dana 44 or a Corporate 10-bolt with a matching axle ratio and swap it in. Then it is just a matter of getting some brake lines to fit up and changing the master to a disc brake unit. The later axles will slide right under and bolt up.

After I got done with mine, after spending a ton on new rotors, rebuilt calipers, the knuckles from the yard, a new bearing here and there, spindle bearing rebuild kit, new balljoints, brake lines, MC/booster, etc, I think I dumped about $600 or $700 into the deal. Later I found complete front axles for less than $300 (seems the 4-wheelin guys dump their 10-bolts like yesterday's garbage). Then you get the larger calipers, larger axle u-joints, and cheaper replacement parts.

[AJ4X4TJ]

Chris,

You help was much needed, dude.
I'm a big sucker for doing this kind of work wrong and spending tons of money on parts and stuff. I'm learning to consult and ask those who have been there and done it.
So, what do you think if i get 1 ton axles from a newer truck...will they work and what model of truck do you suggest? And how about the rear axles...should i do it all at once? Please let me know what you think and your help is much appreciated.

Have a nice day.

[AJ4X4TJ]

Originally Posted by AJ4X4TJ

Chris,

You help was much needed, dude.
I'm a big sucker for doing this kind of work wrong and spending tons of money on parts and stuff. I'm learning to consult and ask those who have been there and done it.
So, what do you think if i get 1 ton axles from a newer truck...will they work and what model of truck do you suggest? And how about the rear axles...should i do it all at once? Please let me know what you think and your help is much appreciated.

Have a nice day.

Thanks again

[69TowRig]

1-tons will not be cheap, but it will save you the intermediate step of spending some $$ now to redo it all later. Pretty sure you will need to get your driveshafts modified to use those, keep that in mind (the pinion snouts are longer, so the shafts probably need to be shortened a hair).

The '73 and later rear axles have the spring perches mounted further outboard, you will have to cut and re-weld them closer together. Front perches are the same width apart. Make sure that you get single-rear-wheel axles, especially if you are getting them from different donor vehicles. You can easily tell the dual-rear-wheel front axles from the huge hub extensions. I don't have a trained eye for the rears, hopefully someone else can chime in. A nice front 60/rear 14-bolt would be sweet, and should hold up to your tires for a long time. And don't forget to budget in some new wheels to go with those 8-lug axles too!

[EFI70Blazer]

Originally Posted by 69TowRig

The '73 and later rear axles have the spring perches mounted further outboard, you will have to cut and re-weld them closer together.

If you get a single wheel rear axle from a 1 ton, the perches don't have to be moved, but the shock mounts will still. One of them will have to be move towards the center section more and the other needs to be flipped to the other side and moved towards the center section.

[DURRTY]

in 71 blazers came with disc brakes......................... in the front

I dont know if the 73 brakes are better I know the matser cylinders and boosters are better but this is what I know


Im not an expert but I think I am here

[69TowRig]

Originally Posted by DURRTY

in 71 blazers came with disc brakes......................... in the front

Those axles are relatively hard to find local and cheap anymore. Plus with 37" boggers hanging off the knuckles, I figured he'd at least want the u-joint upgrade he would get with the 73+ Dana 44 stuff. The Corp. 10 bolt had quite a few years with weaker shafts, don't remember when they were finally beefed up (really late 80's IIRC).

[DURRTY]

What are they worth? with the flat machined right side? to make the cross over steering? it isn't that expensive to make that 44 into a 3/4 ton 8 lug axle i have one and plan to do that to it. a 3/4 ton shaft will handle a 37 for a whole lot longer than the 1/2 will.

a good DANA 60 is 2k or more bought rebuilt and ready to run.
get one from the junk yard and you will have to pay for gears and seals bearings.... and more.... around here everyone know that a 60 front will sell in a second and they are never cheap.

[msgross]

only difference in a dana 44 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton is the spindle, hub and lugnuts.

If you want to stay cheap then find a 75 or 76 dana 44 from 1/2 ton with flattop knuckles, then you can do crossover at some point ($150 axle + $100 for new lines, pads, calipers etc and $100 for new MC and prop valve...) or go Dana60 front and 14 bolt rear (3/4 ton setup) and pay $2000 for everything....

[DURRTY]

why is that a 3/4 ton set up?
I just thought that a 60 front and 14 bolt rear was 1 ton gear?

I have a 01 F350 (obviously no 14 bolt in it) it has a 60 front and d70 rear.

just wondering? I have seen it called 3/4 ton a few times lately and though that people had missed spoken but I might have missed something.

[msgross]

I meant 1 ton ... 3/4 ton had dana44's with 8 lugs...