Is this worth it?

[frankdatank01]

New to board...first post....benn looking into the 67-72 trucks for a long time. I think I found onw but would like opinions on the deal.

Here is a 1970 C10 Camper Special LWB. It is pretty clean with a couple issues. Small hole in floor pan near kick panel, low beams not working, and fuel guage out. Uniquely(Iguess) it has a Buick 455 in it that runs pretty strong. There is also a 350 to go with it that needs rebuilt due to spun bearing. Bed is good and rhinolined. Not much rust underneath, just some surface rust. Interior has been redone in black and silver but could use some carpet. Not rust in side except a little under the windshield rubber on top. I think the windshield needs resealed, probably caused the hole in the floor.

Best I could get him to is $4300. What do you think?

[Longhorn Man]

Let me be the first to say, welcome to the board from Columbus... where rust never sleeps.
That is a sharp looking truck, but I'll willing to bet a kick in the daddy parts, that this thing has lots of filler hidden in there. I could be wrong, it could be an arizona truck and the rust you see, is all it has. But I highly doubt it.
The rust un the window chanel can be a major problem. If it is just starting to pit, but not layers of flaky rust, then it is repairable. If it is flaking, then you are looking at some seriouse fabbing and/or lots of time cutting out and welding in a new chanel piece.
The buick engine.. IMO, could be a huge plus... IF they did it right. You see in my signiture, I run a caddy big block, the 455s of all 3 makes are in the same boat with the caddy mills, lotsa low end grunt, which makes then more than fun on the street. However, you need to inspect the instalation. The engine mount towers need to be secure, and preferably with no spacers. The drive shaft angle could be an issue if not done right, the fuel line could be routed in an unsafe manor, battery location could be kinda dangerouse... ect.
It's a sharp looking truck, and from what I've seen here in the Columbus area, the price is just about right.

However, I will say this. If you have that kind of moneyto play with, I say shop on line, and look out west. Anywhere from west Tx, all the way to Cali, there are millions of these trucks (and other cool vehicles) that have never seen the salt. Even if you spend 1000 bucks on shipping the vehicle here, and reduce your purchace price by the same, you'll end up with a much cleaner body. And unless you are brand new to the classic automobile hobby, you know that paint and body is by far the single most expensive part of any project.

[cory321]

Welcome From Kettering.

[Chevelle454]

It's true...being repainted you never know about filler. See if you can take a magnet to various parts of the truck and you be the judge... There is a right way and a wrong way to use it, it's all in the prep work. If you do it right, it will not be an issue... At least thats the way that I looked at it when I did my body work...

[Longhorn Man]

Do you have any bigger/better photos... or even simply more pics, that you can e-mail me maybe? (cockroach93 @ yahoo)
Looking at that again, I am seeing an aftermarket grill, tail gate custom threads on the seat, improper mirrors and trim, all indicating a catalog fresh redo. (I refuse to call that restored, it isn't as original)
If anything, I'm starting to think... that for this part of the country... that may be a little low on the price.
Total bummer that soime homo put a sun roof in it.
(no offense to any sun roof lovers, or homos reading this)

[krue]

Welcome to the board from South Mississippi! The experts have spoken so I'll just with them.

[frankdatank01]

Well, I picked up the truck. Based on this great board, I did a pretty good check out of the trouble spots. Magnet test was good overall. From crawling underneath, there are a couple small patch panels(6"x6") welded in the bed side. magnet test was good there but not as strong, may be some mud there. Reached into the cowl vents and they were very clean, no rust or debris. Floor pan has a couple small holes on passenger side. After yesterday's much needed rain, I determine the drip rail is good and sealed on top, but as the the gutter fills up and water overflows, the water drops hits the top edge of the windshield rubber and magically disappear instead of flowing down the winshield.

From under the dash the water is coming from the seal and what looks to be a drain hole at the base of the windshield.

So this is my first fix.

For the windshield, any thoughts on the best place to order a new seal? I have the one with chrome trim. Should I give this a shot or call Safelite Autoglass for the remove and replace. The windshield is in good shape. To be honest, the rubber doesn't look bad. but it is easily pulled back.

Sorry for the long winded comments. This board is pretty good. Thanks for all the feedback so far.

Frank the Tank

[Luvlegs]

soooo you know, more pictures are required right?... we all like pics... hahaha
Nice looking truck and Welcome.

There's more info on here than you can shake a stick at.

For what it's worth, compared to what I paid for mine and what you paid for yours, I'd gladly pay the differene to jump me up to that condition!

[cameeks]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...shield+removal

Here is a link so you can see if you want to tackle this on your own or have someone else do it.

[ChevLoRay]

The water that runs down the windshield and disappears is going into the vent ahead of the windshield and down into the plenums that you said were clean and dry. From there, it runs into the cab through the fresh air doors in the kick panels. It can do that because there is usually some rust-out in the bottoms of the plenums. To do a proper repair, we have to (essentially) use a can opener and open up the tops of those plenum to be able to get to them for repair. It's similar to the first gen Mustangs, as far as a comparable repair.

Nice looking truck, though. I wish mine looked that nice. You paid less for yours than I had in mine, five years ago.