Frame and Suspension Info Wanted - Safety, torque, etc. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Primered_69 · 06-24-2007, 08:09 PM

I am kind of paranoid about my frame. When my dad was alive he would tell me all the little things that I had no clue about but now I have no clue about how to do some of the simple things that most people on here take as second nature. So I am going to ask some simple questions

I went through and redid my frame (spindles, springs, ball joints, dearched springs) but this is the first time I ever did any type of suspension work. It all went back togeather really easy without problems.

But I want to go back and double check everything because I do not want anything to go wrong.

So here are some questions I need answered? (Note: I am a big guy when I say "just tighten until they are tight" - this is pretty darn tight.)

1. Ball joints do they need to be torqued or just done real snug where the pin will go through?

2. I had a past post about loctite and replacement bolts where rivets might have been removed but do these bolts have to be torqued or do you just get them good and tight? If tourgue - how much?

3. I swapped out the front crossmember... do these bolts need to be torqued? If so how much?

4. For a blazer tank conversion, what grade of bolt and do you use loctite here or lock washers or ???

5. Rear leafs - do you torque them where they mount to the frame and where they attach to the rear end? If so how much?

6. Rear differential bolts do they need to be torqued or just snug?

7. Front sway bar - torqued or just real snug?

Longhorn Man · 06-24-2007, 08:51 PM

1 real snug
2 1/2 inch drive impact tight
3 Not a bad idea... 'real tight' as in your big guy standards.
4 grade doesn't matter here, it's only holding a couple hundred pounds. Some will say better safe than sorry and say grade 8... but that is totally crazy overkill here. Lock washer should be fine, no need for locktite, but if you have it, it sure won't hurt.
5 1/2 inch drive impact tight recheck after a hundred miles or so.
6 what bolts are you refering to?
7 snugged...again, by your big guy standards, but not needed to be torqued under the same standards.

Primered_69 · 06-24-2007, 10:07 PM

6 what bolts are you refering to?

The rear diff cover

Longhorn Man · 06-24-2007, 10:17 PM

snug... I usually use a 1/4 inch rachet on them

06-24-2007, 08:09 PM	#1
Primered_69 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Fort Worth Posts: 1,409	Frame and Suspension Info Wanted - Safety, torque, etc. I am kind of paranoid about my frame. When my dad was alive he would tell me all the little things that I had no clue about but now I have no clue about how to do some of the simple things that most people on here take as second nature. So I am going to ask some simple questions I went through and redid my frame (spindles, springs, ball joints, dearched springs) but this is the first time I ever did any type of suspension work. It all went back togeather really easy without problems. But I want to go back and double check everything because I do not want anything to go wrong. So here are some questions I need answered? (Note: I am a big guy when I say "just tighten until they are tight" - this is pretty darn tight.) 1. Ball joints do they need to be torqued or just done real snug where the pin will go through? 2. I had a past post about loctite and replacement bolts where rivets might have been removed but do these bolts have to be torqued or do you just get them good and tight? If tourgue - how much? 3. I swapped out the front crossmember... do these bolts need to be torqued? If so how much? 4. For a blazer tank conversion, what grade of bolt and do you use loctite here or lock washers or ??? 5. Rear leafs - do you torque them where they mount to the frame and where they attach to the rear end? If so how much? 6. Rear differential bolts do they need to be torqued or just snug? 7. Front sway bar - torqued or just real snug? __________________ 1969 Chevy LWB - with shaved handles; 3 1/2 front/ 5 1/2 rear drop; (waiting to be put back together) Last edited by Primered_69; 06-24-2007 at 08:10 PM.

06-24-2007, 08:51 PM	#2
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Frame and Suspension Info Wanted - Safety, torque, etc. 1 real snug 2 1/2 inch drive impact tight 3 Not a bad idea... 'real tight' as in your big guy standards. 4 grade doesn't matter here, it's only holding a couple hundred pounds. Some will say better safe than sorry and say grade 8... but that is totally crazy overkill here. Lock washer should be fine, no need for locktite, but if you have it, it sure won't hurt. 5 1/2 inch drive impact tight recheck after a hundred miles or so. 6 what bolts are you refering to? 7 snugged...again, by your big guy standards, but not needed to be torqued under the same standards.

06-24-2007, 10:07 PM	#3
Primered_69 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Fort Worth Posts: 1,409	Re: Frame and Suspension Info Wanted - Safety, torque, etc. 6 what bolts are you refering to? The rear diff cover __________________ 1969 Chevy LWB - with shaved handles; 3 1/2 front/ 5 1/2 rear drop; (waiting to be put back together)

06-24-2007, 10:17 PM	#4
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Frame and Suspension Info Wanted - Safety, torque, etc. snug... I usually use a 1/4 inch rachet on them Last edited by Longhorn Man; 06-24-2007 at 10:18 PM.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.