Miscellaneous questions from this weekend

[Luvlegs]

I got up the guts to change over from points to electronic ignition on my I6 – I used a nova dizzy with the external coil, new wires and gapped the plugs to 45. It ran much smoother right from the get go. Cleaned up a good portion of the wiring harness. I then installed one of the two brake booster brackets, pulled my cowl and cleaned out three trees worth of leaves, lubed the wiper linkage (HUGE difference) and put the cowl back on. I have a bunch of assorted questions…

Q1 The vacuum module on the dizzy will hit the block as I turn it (tuning by ear) – I could turn it more before the engine would start to run bad (then turn it back a little) – but there’s not enough “turn” – Can I turn the dizzy housing to get more “rotation” room? I’m pretty sure I can but I’m having a brain bubble on this…

Q2 As I turn the dizzy, the rpms pick way up. Once set, the idle is WAY too high (single
barrel carb) – is this a spring/linkage adjustment or a jet one? If jet, which one is it looking at the carb? If I turn the dizzy back, the engine will settle down to a nice purr but if I give it any throttle at all, it bogs down to nothing. There is a little pop – pop as it’s idling at any setting – like two cylinders worth in the firing of all 6 – even did that with the points setup – not sure if this is normal (only I6 I’ve ever owned).

Q3 How does the “round” booster support bracket get mounted? The flat one was no problem but I can’t figure out how this one goes on and I never seem to see pics of them installed here (I’d rather have the support even if not needed)

Q4 On the front of the valve cover, two wires were just laying there – burnt off. One (dark green) was for the temp sensor in the T-stat housing. I hooked it up and sure enough, the temp light came on (it wasn’t hot and no shorts) so I guess that needs to be replaced. The second wire is dark blue and I cannot find another burnt end where it might have hooked up (can't find in any schematics either). It is run in the same original part of the harness that has the temp sensor, two pots on the carb and a sensor at the front of the block on the dr. side (all of these are wired up). The oil sensor is on the other side by the starter and that is hooked up. Any idea what it is/was for?

Thanks for reading all that and any information is appreciated!

[Luvlegs]

slipped to page 2 with no responses - so TTT

[short69]

my schematic shows a blue/black wire for the oil pressure sensor and a blue wire for the right turn signal. those are the only two blue wires it shows.sorry I cant help with anything else but ttt

[Brad]

I wrote inside your quote:

Originally Posted by Luvlegs

Q1 The vacuum module on the dizzy will hit the block as I turn it (tuning by ear) – I could turn it more before the engine would start to run bad (then turn it back a little) – but there’s not enough “turn” – Can I turn the dizzy housing to get more “rotation” room? I’m pretty sure I can but I’m having a brain bubble on this…

Once you've determined tdc on the #1 cyl, you can place the dizzy in any which way you want so long as you know which pole is for the #1 cyl and wire each cyl up accordingly. If you plan ahead, this will allow for plenty of 'turn' once it's stabbed in the engine.

Q2 As I turn the dizzy, the rpms pick way up. Once set, the idle is WAY too high (single barrel carb) – is this a spring/linkage adjustment or a jet one? If jet, which one is it looking at the carb? If I turn the dizzy back, the engine will settle down to a nice purr but if I give it any throttle at all, it bogs down to nothing. There is a little pop – pop as it’s idling at any setting – like two cylinders worth in the firing of all 6 – even did that with the points setup – not sure if this is normal (only I6 I’ve ever owned).

I always advocate for setting your idle speed with a vacuum gauge. Basically, you set your initial idle speed to around 500-600 and turn your mixture screw until you've obtained the highest vacuum possible.

Q3 How does the “round” booster support bracket get mounted? The flat one was no problem but I can’t figure out how this one goes on and I never seem to see pics of them installed here (I’d rather have the support even if not needed)

Most on here have never had one and it's not needed unless you're going for a points restoration- and in that case, you've probably got alot more to worry about.

Q4 On the front of the valve cover, two wires were just laying there – burnt off. One (dark green) was for the temp sensor in the T-stat housing. I hooked it up and sure enough, the temp light came on (it wasn’t hot and no shorts) so I guess that needs to be replaced. The second wire is dark blue and I cannot find another burnt end where it might have hooked up (can't find in any schematics either). It is run in the same original part of the harness that has the temp sensor, two pots on the carb and a sensor at the front of the block on the dr. side (all of these are wired up). The oil sensor is on the other side by the starter and that is hooked up. Any idea what it is/was for?

A pic would help as I have no idea what this is for.

Thanks for reading all that and any information is appreciated!

[Luvlegs]

Thanks Short and Brad - I also could not find the wires on any schematics and as soon as I can find my vacuum guage and rig up a temp. tach, I'm going to give that a try. Still curious where that brake booster bracket goes though.....