Orange Crush Build Thread

[CJ5 Convert]

Allright so I threw some of these pics on my first posting the whole "Hello to the board deal". But I've finally started working on this and sometimes without a choice (Every seal in the TH350 gave out the other day and I came home with the garage full of AT Fluid). So I thought I would go ahead and start a build thread. Thanks to all of you board members who have helped me so far.

[CJ5 Convert]

First I tried to get on the front bumper I bought but as yall can see I have had a few problems with getting it straight, Maybe the frame is bent. You can see where the bumper crushed into the grill at some point (passenger side). Also I have no electrical inside and the guage cluster is dead. But one headlight and the rear brake/blinker lights work. I intend on going with a painless wiring harness soon. This kinda of sucks because I'm having to do this seemingly backwards. But if you can't drive a truck it doesn't matter how pretty it is.

[CJ5 Convert]

First I started pulling the interior out the old mats appear to be original but they were dry rotted and at some point had held water under them as the only 2 major spots of rust I've found were under the rear mat and the passenger side floorboard. But hey it couldn't be perfect. I also removed the old dealer installed air. As all that is left is the box on the inside and 2 coolant hoses that went throught the firewall. The air coil and compressor were gone when I bought it. I might put it back in later but for now I'm just going to box it up. That's all for now I'll post more as it happens. Also behind the passenger side decorative interior panel I found a Grafz Zep bottle and a Kist bottle. Who would a thought.

[bouncytruck]

Looks like you're off to a flying start. I think it is fairly common for the bumpers to be slightly crooked. Also, watch that padding under the floor mats. I've heard it contains asbestos.

Are you going to build it back to stock or customize?

[CJ5 Convert]

Originally Posted by bouncytruck

Looks like you're off to a flying start. I think it is fairly common for the bumpers to be slightly crooked. Also, watch that padding under the floor mats. I've heard it contains asbestos.

Are you going to build it back to stock or customize?

Thanks bouncytruck,

I guess I chould have checked on something like the floormats beforehand. Oh well there out and gone now. As for the truck the interior and exterior will be stock. It will never be perfect because it's got a swapped out 350 with emmisions so it's gotta be from the 80's. And the front and rear have six lugs i'm not sure if you could get that stock on these but I know the front axle has been swamped. I just had the tranny rebuilt stock. I thought about putting a shift kit in it but I just decided to leave as is. Pretty much the only thing left on the drive train to be fixed is the engine. That I'm just going to pop in a GM crate. I am going to toss a 4 inch lift on and put some 33" tires on it. I want to be able to wheel it some but mostly just a driver (Maybe a 6" with 35" tires ). So far thats as far as I've got.

-Jason.

[1969k10stepside]

FYI,all the 4wd Blazers and Jimmys had 6 lug 1/2 ton axles stock,no exceptions

[LUV2XCLR8]

Project

[vtblazer]

And so it begins...

Take small bites, these blazer builds can get way outta control fast.

Nice project, another one to watch.

[CJ5 Convert]

1969k10stepside, Awesome info that's why I like this site I learn something everytime I log on.

LUV2XCLR8, Thanks hopefully one day it'll be even cooler.

vtblazer, Seriously if you have any tips on how to keep these from getting out of control I would appreciate it. I was actually talking about getting a weekend job so I could get the motor in sooner.

[Yukon Jack]

I feel for you in regards to the electrical issues. They always seem difficult to deal with for me. Good luck on getting it straightened out. Sure is a good looking Blazer.

[bouncytruck]

I'd rewire the truck with one of the updated kits. Sometimes it is just easier to start over than to fix years of cumulative mess. Then you can get one of the kits that has circuits for power windows & door locks.

[CJ5 Convert]

Allright so far here is what I found.

1. the missing "R" on my tailgate.
2. That almost every wiring connector mas melted in the truck, most cables were showing bare copper (including the positive battery cable), and even the printed circuit was burned (specifically the path for the AMMETER).





More too follow.

[CJ5 Convert]

More wiring mess. Also a Q-jet won't work if the filter is completely clogged. Who'd have thought it.

[CJ5 Convert]

So to resolve the first major issue ( the wires inside the dash sparking). I ripped the guts out to install a new American Autowire Higway 22 kit. It has worked great it is huge though. I wish I had put it in the glove box. It would have saved me a lot of fab work especially since Iwas doing it all in the bed of the truck with a jigsaw and some C-clamps.

[CJ5 Convert]

Incidentally I made it so the fuse box would fold down in front of the bulhead connector. It gets it up the wall and out of my way. Maybe later I'll make a sheild for the bulkhead connector.





Any opinions on this it is my driver door upper hinge. I'm guessing I'm pretty screwed and just need to replace the door. Any thoughts?

[lks dcvn]

yup - looks like the upper hinge area on the door has torn/ripped and allowed the door hinge to pull through the door.

From what I have read - you have a few options...

1. Replace door making sure you check the integrity of the hinge locations on the new door
2. Repair the door by welding in panels behind the hinge point on the door (inside the door) - cheaper, but more complicated depending on your skill level with a welder...
3. Repair the door by just welding up the tear in the metal - some have done this with success.

Mine is tearing at that point to, but it hasn't caused that big of a problem for me yet to worry about it. Be careful when opening the door too far because that will only make it worse. How do your doors close now - any issues to speak of - binding/dragging/door alignment, etc.

Just a few options out there.

Hope that helped.

Lks Dcvn

[Yukon Jack]

Your fuse panel is looking good. I like the way you have it folding up out of the way.

[Stepside65]

What did the rewire cost you Jason? Both my toys need a rewire bad. Hope to see you and Crush at Oktoberfest.

[CJ5 Convert]

I don't know at this point I think I've probably got less than 600 or so in it. I bought all new weatherpack connectors for all new connections. I bought one of new LED tailights from MuscleRodz. Had to get new lights for the side cause the PO just cut them out of the old harnesses. I bought new gaskets for all of it. I had to get a new everything. Plus I put new lights in. front and back not including another bezel I had to get to rob for parts and the printed circuit. I might have between 600 and 700 in it. I'll let you know if I everget it added up. The kit was $399 but to totally redo it with original wiring would have been like 700 and it would have taken much less time. Although I can now say I know how to rewire every and all of the wires in my blazer and or any other 67-72. Let me know if you need any help with the rewire. Hope that helps.

[1971K54X4]

My driver's side door is doing the same thing. It doesn't effect the way the door has been working so I haven't worried about it to much. Your rewire looks good, I'm glad my po didn't hack mine all up. I say you got a great looking Blazer.

[Infanti]

Hey Jason i to like like the way you have the panel flip out.Great way to hide and access. Here's a picture i think you'll get a kick out of.
Gerry

[CJ5 Convert]

After 6 months of nothing I am finally getting back to the K5.

This weekend I finally got a load of parts in and James (Stepside65) came over to help me out. Thanks James and thanks everyone else for the advice and help getting parts.
A couple of thoughts.
1. Buy the biggest jackstands you can find.
2. Don't position the jackstands in a manner that will not allow you to remove the axle (And yes James has every right to make fun of me for being a bonehead )
3. Don't reinstall the jackstands in a place that will crush your power steering pump.
4.Read the directions it will save you lots of time. As I didn't recieve them with the kit. I should have thought ahead and downloaded them offline.
5. Don't install the springs wrong (my fault)
6. Don't guess and install the springs wrong a second time (again my fault James not present)
7. Don't send out distress emails to people like VT Blazer, Big J, and Yukon Jack when you still haven't read the directions.
8. When you finally download,read the directions, and have to recall all of the distress calls you sent out. FEEL VERY STUPID WHEN YOU HAVE TO PUT THE REAR SPRINGS ON CORRECCTLY THE 3rd TIME



Incidentally since I'm correcting all of this I will ahve to post the final pics of the lift with the rear axle in the correct position this weekend.

Parts and Suspension

Sweet tires from OleSenna to replace the old swampers

[CJ5 Convert]

More Pics


James Wore Out

James and his Epic Metal

Me Shooting first and realizing I'm stupid later

[CJ5 Convert]

Preview of next week.

[vtblazer]

Good to see it sitting outside finished, looks great!

How's it drive/ride with the new suspension?