The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-11-2007, 06:18 PM   #1
stachcold
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: St. Clair Michigan
Posts: 26
Alternator running hot

A little while back I replaced my battery because it wouldn't hold a charge anymore. While I was doing that I decided to replace the battery cables while I was at it. It wasn't long after that my alternator had a melt down (the wires going to it melted). I had the alternator tested and it passed but I decided to change it anyways to go to a internally regulated alternator because my external voltage regulator was looking pretty rough. The guy at AutoZone talked me into getting a one wire alternator. I hooked it up following the proper internal regulator setup and everything ran fine, but when I happened to touch the alternator it was really hot. Everything else in the engine bay was only warm to the touch. I went back and checked that everything was hooked up right and it looks like it is. After everything cooled down I started it up again to see if it would happen again. After only a minute or so the alternator started to heat up again? Everything ran fine before I replace the whole battery system. Any idea's what the problem could be?
stachcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2007, 07:06 PM   #2
oldgold70c10
Who's got steelies?
 
oldgold70c10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Morrison, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,026
Re: Alternator running hot

Double check the connections between the battery, alternator, and the rest of the electric system. Check for poor grounds, too. If the alternator case ground to the engine isn't good, it will trick the regulator into passing more current because it will read the voltage as low. If you have an amp gauge, you can also check to se if the alternator is constantly trying to over charge by watching if the hand drops back to the center a few minutes after start-up when fast idling.
__________________
1969 C10 LWB W/ 250 I6 & 3spd
1970 C10 with '67 small window cab, 68 front end, blue; 305/TH350, 3.08 limited slip rear end, manual brakes, power steering; & 4-wheel drums-My daily driver.
1975 Chevelle Malibu Classic Coupe 350/th350 mint green
1970 C20 Suburban 350/700R4 4.10 gearing green & white
1978 Big 10 Silverado 350/th350, working ac, 2 tone blue-My summer daily driver
1983 GMC 1500 Sierra 305/SM465 2.73 rear end

How to add a trip odometer to your 67-72 stock speedometer

How to rebuild your Q-Jet

My Truck Page
My Youtube Channel
oldgold70c10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2007, 09:53 PM   #3
drman929
Registered User
 
drman929's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 232
Re: Alternator running hot

stachcold, I'm going to ask a quick question in your thread if you don't mind...it does pertain to the same subject though.

oldgold, right when I start my truck the amp gauge needle is around the 3/4 position, but after about 5 seconds it returns to the middle and stays there if the truck is running or not. I'm putting out around 14 at the battery per my electrical tester. What will overcharging harm?
drman929 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2007, 07:50 AM   #4
truckdude239
Senior Member
 
truckdude239's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Lewisville, Nc
Posts: 10,233
Re: Alternator running hot

14 volts is perfect drman anything higher then 15 will sort out headlights and stuff like that please remnebr next time no to hijack posts
__________________
David fuller
Ase Certified Mechanic
Click here to help support our board!!


1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap

Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305

2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles
2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car)
2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car)
2002 Sububran 5.3 245k
2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378

General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube
truckdude239 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2007, 06:50 PM   #5
mnunn454
Registered User
 
mnunn454's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 602
Re: Alternator running hot

Sounds to me like the new single wire alternator's alternator's either bad, or it's not hooked up right. No way should it be getting as hot as you say. Try running the output through a decent ammeter while measuring its voltage.
__________________
69 C-10 SWB Fleetside 454/TH400 (For Sale)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/c...ct=1299&cat=12
70 El Camino 454 TH700
29 Model A 4-DR Sedan Deluxe
mnunn454 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2007, 01:12 PM   #6
oldgold70c10
Who's got steelies?
 
oldgold70c10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Morrison, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,026
Re: Alternator running hot

Quote:
Originally Posted by drman929 View Post
stachcold, I'm going to ask a quick question in your thread if you don't mind...it does pertain to the same subject though.

oldgold, right when I start my truck the amp gauge needle is around the 3/4 position, but after about 5 seconds it returns to the middle and stays there if the truck is running or not. I'm putting out around 14 at the battery per my electrical tester. What will overcharging harm?
Middle should be normal, that jump to the 3/4 position is the regulator in the alternator kicking out more to recharge the battery after cranking. It is perfectly normal, and of no harm since the battery will suck-up the extra currnet being produced to return to full charge.

Another way to make sure the regulator is responding to your truck's electrical needs is when you switch high-current stuff on and off, such as the headlights. Watch the amp guage, there should be a slight lag, since the regulator's response is not instant. When you turn them on, the hand should move to the left slightly and then recover back to the middle. Likewise, when you turn the lights off, it should move to the right slightly, then recover to the middle.

If it doesn't respond, the either the guage is wired wrong or inoperative, or, the regulator in the alternator is bad. Most likely cause of the alternator getting hot would be a bad regulator or connection to the regulator.
__________________
1969 C10 LWB W/ 250 I6 & 3spd
1970 C10 with '67 small window cab, 68 front end, blue; 305/TH350, 3.08 limited slip rear end, manual brakes, power steering; & 4-wheel drums-My daily driver.
1975 Chevelle Malibu Classic Coupe 350/th350 mint green
1970 C20 Suburban 350/700R4 4.10 gearing green & white
1978 Big 10 Silverado 350/th350, working ac, 2 tone blue-My summer daily driver
1983 GMC 1500 Sierra 305/SM465 2.73 rear end

How to add a trip odometer to your 67-72 stock speedometer

How to rebuild your Q-Jet

My Truck Page
My Youtube Channel
oldgold70c10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:43 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com