A/C Controls Vs Heater Controls

[Baby John]

My truck did not come from the factory with A/C but the PO had an aftermarket A/C unit installed from a company called "Vintage Air". He did not replace the controls, but instead he just connected the bowdin cables to the factory heater controls. There's really nothing more than a temperature control, and a valve control that switches from "heat" to "Defrost" and maybe somewhere in between and a fan switch.

I'm looking at buying a stock A/C control. Question is...will it be a direct swap...as far as the opening in the dash?

I'd think connecting the bowdin cables to the proper location would be pretty simple.

I'd also guess that the fan switch would be a pretty simple connection as well.

Can y'all help?

[see ten]

Vintage Air made a kit for non air trucks that use non A/C controls. So no you can't just swap the controller. They sold a seperate kit for non air trucks that would work with factory a/c components. You can't just swap the controller. I have two trucks and one is done like yours and the other uses the factory controls (which I like better). I called vintage air and asked about just swappin controllers (like you are wanting to do) and they said it would not work. What you have now has no temp control (just heat or A/C) the lever moved one way is A/C and the other is heat. I think the center lever is fan speed and the top is somewhat of a defrost.

[Baby John]

Originally Posted by see ten

Vintage Air made a kit for non air trucks that use non A/C controls. So no you can't just swap the controller. They sold a seperate kit for non air trucks that would work with factory a/c components. You can't just swap the controller. I have two trucks and one is done like yours and the other uses the factory controls (which I like better). I called vintage air and asked about just swappin controllers (like you are wanting to do) and they said it would not work. What you have now has no temp control (just heat or A/C) the lever moved one way is A/C and the other is heat. I think the center lever is fan speed and the top is somewhat of a defrost.

Well crap! that doesn't make sense. I printed out the installation manual and the only difference in the unit was some sort of added bracket that you added to your heater controls.

You're right though, the center lever operates the fan speed.

I was sure I could just remove the old heater control, and then remove this additional bracket and connect it the way it was designed to connect to the factory A/C controls.

Are you really really sure?

[see ten]

I guess with enough will and determination anything is possible. The question is are you going to have any benefit aside from cosmetic? Even if you make it work the system is still going to function the same. You wont have any more control over the temp than you do now. It operates on a vacuum valve that is mounted in a heater hose that is either open or closed (which is why you only have hot or cold and no increments in between). The system that uses the factory A/C controls has a cable operated valve in the heater hose that can kinda be opened or closed partially to have just a touch of temp tweaking. I would be hard pressed to change the controls if it was only for cosmetic purposes.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I'd have to agree with that. There isn't much point in trying to swap just controls. I used the non air truck with factory controls and the fan speed switch is electric (not cable operated) and runs off the factory AC fan switch.

Here's what it looks like from the back:

[Baby John]

Well you're right the only reason would be cosmetic. I know it's not going to work better. My real reason is that I don't want people getting into my truck and have to ask "how does this air conditioner work?". I'd like the control to be self explanatory to whomever might be in the truck. Right now, my fan switch is the center switch. It just bugs me.

I am changing out the manual column for the Auto column for the same reason. I just don't like having to tell people, "this is a manual column but an auto tranny...you have to push forward on the lever to get it into gear...and when it pops outta park it's gonna go straight into drive...then you'll have to back it up two clicks to get into reverse".

[Baby John]

Welp it seems you're right. As if I doubted you...but here's the reply I got from the tech department @ Vintage Air.

The operation of the controls/evaporators for a non air cab and a FAC cab are completely different. You will need to keep the heater controller to operate you system. If you want to go to the trouble of changing the evaporator, we do offer one for a non air cab with FAC controls list price is $575.00.



If you have any questions, call our Sales Dept. @ 1.800.862.6658.



Thanks

Mark
Vintage Air


I'm not really sure I understand this reponse, but I think it's safe to say that the simple replacement of the heater controls with the factory air controls won't work without replacing the evaporator....whatever that is.

[see ten]

I can't blame you a bit for wanting to change the column. I had a 66 like that and it could be somewhat annoying. The controls are explanatory enough if you think about it. The top is labeled DEF, it operates/opens the defrost vents when moved to the right. The middle is labeled AIR/FAN, activates your fan/blower motor. The bottom is the only one that can be a bit confusing. It's labeled HEAT. If the lever is all the way left (toward the label that reads heat) you have heat. All the way to the right (no label) you've got A/C. As long as you know how it works I wouldn't worry what anyone else thought about it. What they are refering to changing is the entire heater/ac box that's under the dash.

[gregbr]

I talked with the guys at Detroit Speed in NC (Vintage Air Dealer) about this same problem. They talked with the VA tech guys and then told me I could install a factory air control panel and a cable operated heater control valve instead of the vacuum valve and it would then have temp control. If I have been mislead I need to fix this soon. I just installed the underdash unit and started running the a/c lines on my frame off resto. Can anybody confirm either way. Greg

[gregbr]

Talked to a Tech guy at VA myself (not the same person Detroit Speed talked to) and told him the situation. He consulted some other techs or somebody during a meeting they were having and called me back the next day. He stated to use the non air evap, factory a/c panel, and a cable controlled heater valve instead of the vac valve and heater panel........And it should work and have temp control. Anybody tried this yet? I'm not this far along yet. Can supply both techs names if needed, have them written at home. Greg