Any1 have any pictures with an upgrade headlight wiring with stock lights?

[84_chevrolet]

Does any1 have pictures of the stock lights with the upgraded heavy duty wiring from lmc or done it on there own. I'm thinking about doing this any would like some pictures first

[Zoomad75]

I've done it. i didn't run the stock lights for very long as I was putting H4 conversion bulbs on anyway. Do a search on it here and you'll find plenty.

Three of us put together an article that was put up in the garage section of the 73-87 website: http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/exte...ight_relay.htm

One word of caution on the LMC relay kit. There is no fuse protection on the power feed circuits to the relays. (at least DirtyLarry's kit didn't have any) You need to make sure those power circuits are fused, if not a short in those circuits could be the reason your truck burns to the ground.

[84_chevrolet]

Is the upgrade of wiring worth it if I am not upgrading the lights also?

[Zoomad75]

Hell yea it is. You would be amazed at the difference in brightness on sealed beam halogen lights when they are getting a full 14 volts fed to them. Having H4's is even better yet with the relays but you can upgrade to those later if you want to.

[77 350 Shorty Wide]

I've done this and have only high beams, no lows, single lights. this is on a 77 swb c-10. I used the LMC kit with their lights. Any ideas would sure be appreciated on this.

God Bless, Terry

[Ivan D.]

y'all don't need any special harnesses, y'all can do everything yerself - run 12awg wires to two relays for low beams, run another two 12awg wires to two relays for high beams, fuse each of these four main-power wires somewhere between relays and battery, use stock wiring to control relays, ground headlights to battery again, piece of cake. Did that to my Lincoln, also replaced the inboard headlamps with combined lo-hi too so now in low beams I get four lights, and not just two, with them lights being Silverstar Ultras I can see every little crack on the road Moreover, I wired the fog lights in the circuit too, so now it goes like that:

- switch on running lights - all running lights are on, fog lights are on too, 2x110W = 220W of yellow light

- switch on low beams - all running lights remain on, fogs go off, four low beams come on, 4x55W = 220W of bright white light

- switch on high beams - all running lights remain on, low beams remain on, fog lights come back on, and high beams engage too - 2x110W lows + 4x55W lows + 4x65W highs = 680W of light output.

When having the low beams on people often think I'm running on highs, the fact that the four lights don't actually blind them don't matter, they just count four lights and start hitting their highs and blinking and honking and what not - all that of course stops if I hit the actual high beams, but I avoid doing that as I bet for several seconds after that they are as blind as bats. And yes, when on a straight country road with high beams on I can see like like two counties away

Haven't quite decided what I'm gonna do to my truck yet... It's getting some of them GE Nighthawks (or whatever their name was) for sure, then some fogs too, and from there on I dunno...

[Zoomad75]

Originally Posted by 77 350 Shorty Wide

I've done this and have only high beams, no lows, single lights. this is on a 77 swb c-10. I used the LMC kit with their lights. Any ideas would sure be appreciated on this.

God Bless, Terry

Your LMC kit should have had two relays, one for high, one for low. Since it uses the stock harness as the signal to turn either relay on/off you need to check and see if your getting power to the low beam relay. Chances are if the relays are hooked up correctly, that the problem is from the hi/low beam switch on the floor. Or the wiring from the switch to the left front headlight. The brown wire is the low beam and the high is the green wire. Go to the left headlight socket (that is probably plugged into your LMC harness) and test for power with a testlight with the low beams on. I'd bet it don't work. At that point you can go back to the dimmer switch on the floor and check the connection there. Sometimes due to the location on the floor the connector/switch can get corroded due to wet feet, snow, or other moisture. Check at the switch with your test light for power on the brown circuit. If you got it there, then you know it's a problem with the wire and it's time to follow it to find it. If the switch has no power in low, the switch is probably toast. Get a new one.

Pretty simple...