how many freaking master cyl/ boosters are there?

[BurnoutNova]

ever since i bought my 71 k10 a few years ago ive always been dissatisfied with the brakes. the rears will lock up if i really slam on them, and it just doesnt stop as well as i think it should. its almost as if the rears are the only thing working. i had a 69 k20 and it seemed to stop realatively well for a 4 wheel manual drum setup, much better than the 71 with the power disc/ drum setup.

so i came to the conclution the 71 must have either a bad proportioning valve, or maybe a drum brake valve... which would make sence since drums are self energizing, meaning less pressure to my front calipers which need WAY more pressure than the drums would. so anyway... i have a complete 71 c20 (from a bigblock truck) disc/ drum master and booster setup, so i get the prop valve off of it and go to put it on my truck. the master cyl threads are diffrent between the k10 and c20's and the boosters are way diffrent also. i tried to just put the entire setup from the c20 on my truck, but it sticks off the firewall to far and hits my alternator.

my question is... why are there diffrent master cyl and boosters, and is the one from my bigblock c20 going to work on my k10? and finally, where can i buy factory lines and a prop valve for my k10 master/booster?

[Musclerodz]

We carry Classic Tube and can get you the correct prop valve and lines

Mike

[Frizzle Fry]

I had the same problem with line compatability when I put a 3/4 ton booster and MC on my big block 1/2 ton Burban. I was able to make it work with line adapters.

I do have to say that the 3/4 ton booster is WAY better that the 1/2 ton version. And ya, it comes pretty close to the alternator. Here's a pic:

[Longhorn Man]

the 3/4 and one ton masters are plumbed backwards from the 1/2 ton ones if memory serves... and that's why the lines aren't going right on.

[BurnoutNova]

i think i might have this figured out... i got the bigblock 3/4 ton master cylinder and brake booster on, and made a spacer about 1/8" thick to go in the two bottom brake booster studs, so now the master cylinder sits about 1" higher and cklears the alternator.



will this cause a probleom to put the 3/4 ton master/booster/PV on my factory 1/2 ton lines? why are they plumbed diffrent?

[Solego]

Do what I did and buy a 3/4 ton truck. No problems whatsoever.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

the 3/4 and one ton masters are plumbed backwards from the 1/2 ton ones if memory serves... and that's why the lines aren't going right on.

That MC on mine I bought for a 1/2 ton (NAPA). It plumbs fine to the PV. It's the lines from the PV to the wheels that I had issues with. That PV came from the same 3/4 ton parts truck so... maybe they're different too. Guess I'll find out when I put the CPP disc/disc PV on there

[BurnoutNova]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

That MC on mine I bought for a 1/2 ton (NAPA). It plumbs fine to the PV. It's the lines from the PV to the wheels that I had issues with. That PV came from the same 3/4 ton parts truck so... maybe they're different too. Guess I'll find out when I put the CPP disc/disc PV on there

i think longhorn man was talking to me.. i was trying to use the 3/4 PV on my 1/2 master cyl. thats whay it wasnt working

[BurnoutNova]

Originally Posted by Solego

Do what I did and buy a 3/4 ton truck. No problems whatsoever.

ive had everything, and one way or another you'll still have hangups no matter what you have

[xshadow]

so I have a 3/4 ton master cy, break booster and proportioning valve for a 2wd will this work on the 4x4 1/2 ton? I'm going to replace most of the lines with the bend them yourself lines.

[truckdude239]

idk my 71 had mc go bad got new one old one had one wire holding cap down new one had 2 then had to replace again and it went back to one thing holding the cap on