Gonna replace my engine....what to get?

[ChevLoRay]

My truck has the original 350 block, with mid-70's heads (for unleaded fuel). It has been built at least once in the past. I have no idea how many miles it has on it, either before or since. It has blowby, and some piston slap. Costs of rebuilding are close to replacement....with no warranty. So, that brings me to this point....what do I need to look for? All I want to do it have a nice streetable engine that isn't too radical.

Goodwrench 350 runs about $1300-1700.

There's a Goodwrench 290-hp 350 in the Summit Catalog for about $400 more than their 260-hp engine. It has a hotter bumpstick. But for the difference, actually less money, Crane has their Thumper series that is interesting.

Then, there's Jasper with their humongous warranty. But you can't get one unless you do it at the installer. Haven't priced them, either.

I already have an Edelbrock intake, Accel HEI and an Edelbrock Q-Jet (750CFM). New headers will have to be bought. The Hookers that are on it are old....probably as old as the last rebuild. I'm guessing that rebuild was done in the late 80's. With 14000 miles on the clock....it's anyone's guess. 214,000 or 314,000? Chassis has been rebuilt. TH400 is in great shape.

[dan42]

Interesting. I am going to put a motor in mine as well. That's a good question and I'll be watching to see what people say, but I would think crate would be better than rebuilt as well, due to the variability in machine shop's quality, etc. and the cost isn't much different. Just my .02.

[custom72c20]

im thinking about putting a 406 ci small block in my truck. they make good power without sacrificing reliability.

[Boog]

Why not bore n stroke your block to 377 or 383 with a smooth idleing cam. You'll have loads of torque under your right foot!
I went mild on mine. Bored 40 with 9 to1 comp and an "rv" cam for now with Performer intake and quad. If that don't get it done for me the next step is strokin it. I used a machine shop in Heber Springs. It hasn't been out of the shop yet but it sure sounds good. I know there are several engine builders in and around Little Rock and Benton. Give em a call and see what they'll do one for.

[prg machine]

I agree with Boog. If the block can be bored. I just got a 383 finished with Crane roller cam,1.6 roller rockers, 2.02 intake valves, studded, guided bored , 383 crank, new pistons, rods and of course balance, everything new, by a local reputable rebuilder for just under 3k.
Considering shipping etc. for crate motors. Not too bad I guess. All of the parts came in through his shop except for the cam, a friend sold me because he wanted more lift!!

Either way you go you won't be dissapointed. I feel strongly about the 383 idea, but even a straight 350 built wisely is a hard one to beat. Can be done very cheaply too.

[timcos]

I got a Jasper and did not get it at their installer. I had my own installer do it.

1600 delivered...about 800 to install it. Yeah too much but what does one do...?

[prg machine]

Oh stat wise that engine I mention is a guarantee of 375-400 horse and 400 ft/lbs torque ( depending on aspiration) The shop builds em all of the time and has dyno in shop.

[Billla]

A crate is always going to be a safer choice as it comes out of the box ready to use. As for cost comparison to an overhaul, it's about a wash if you do the final assembly yourself. See my thread on overhaul costs in my FAQ.

However, you'll get less power for your money with one of the Goodwrench crates than something you build. A 350 HP engine is well within reach for about $2500, and 400 for about $3500. Boog's engine is a perfect case in point. I've also got a 355 overhaul post around here somewhere that has a spreadsheet with prices, etc.

[cdowns]

building yourself sounds really good and you get more power too the down side is and i've seen more than one post on it where after a couple of hundred miles the homebuilt is ready for the scrapheap but to get a warrenty in that case all you need to do is look in the mirror

[ChevLoRay]

I am limited in my skills, and facilities. I have a cousin who does all my mechanical work...and he's good. It is at his suggestion that the crate motor becomes a realistic option.

I'd really like to have a big block, anywhere from 396 to 454 cubic inches, with a thumpin' cam and a hint of an exhaust system. What I'd like to hear is anything that would sound like an engine on steroids. Lots of steroids. It isn't that the 40-series Flowmasters don't let me smile once in a while, I just want something that would put a grin from ear to ear, everytime I fire it up. That all equates to money. I can get some of what I want with the small block, and for my purposes, that would be enough. Do I want a stroked small block? Sure, it would be nice. I suspect that my block has been bored enough to clean it up, but there are no rebuilder tags on the block, so that is a guess. If it was "just cleaned up", I'm guessing .030 over, or a 355. .060 takes it to what? A dirt track builder I know suggested using 6-inch rods, but that's not a cheap option. So, that get's it back to the crate choices. I'd like the HT383 from GMPP. That's about $4K. So, buying the basic crate engine, with iron heads and 8.4CR, then adding the cam I want along with the intake, carb and headers is not too bad. I'm not wanting to shred the tires. I just want to enjoy the ride and bask in the reliability of a streetable engine. If I found one that was running and available....I'd consider it, too.


Too many options for my damaged brain.

[timcos]

ChevLoRay...I will be there in 10 weeks...ready to lend a helping hand.

Am I a master mechanic..no...but I used to work on nuclear weapons and know how to use a torque wrench and know how to follow a procedure.

Actually I will be in Bentonville...closer than Utah.

[Boog]

For many the GM crates are the best route to take. All new components with a bit of a warranty. New engine for under $2000 but stock powerwise. Dependable.
Reman'd long blocks from the local parts stores, I wouldn't waste my dough on. Crate engines from summit and others aren't cheap and who knows who's doing the machining and assembling on those?
I am pleased for what I have in my 350 right now. Not a race engine but a little more umph than a stocker and for less than a GM crate so I have room to add more HP later if wanted. Someone said they were charged $1600 for the engine and $800 to r&r it. $800! Geez, there isn't that much to swapping out an engine in one of these trucks. $250 to 300 should be more like it.
I have read on these forums that the GM dealers can be a pain about the warranties too. Like ONLY giving a warranty on an engine that was available in the vehicle it is being put in. Others have said it is ONLY warranteed if the GM shop install it. I have no first hand experience with them myself. Don't intend to either.
I really need to get mine ready to run around the block to see just what I have. I've got 4.10 gear in mine too. Should be fun!

[tkeduk8r]

I would build my own and do.... it really isnt that hard if you use common sense and follow procedure and you always have this board to rely on when you get stumped.... I have high schoolers do it in a not very well equiped shop and some of them have had them for years and with good success... In fact i am running a student built 305 in my 74 C10 right now and i get close to 20 mpg with it and can pull most of what ever I want with it also... Just ask around in your area as far as a decent machinist goes and you will be set. You can also have the machinist assemble anything you dont feel comfortable with, and I feel when I pay him/her I am paying to have my questions answered too... Also, make sure you have your rotating assembly balanced and have your distributer recurved to your new engine combo. In the end you will have what YOU want and the satisfaction of YOU building it.

[Scott68-93-97]

Buy the GM motor any of them how can you say no to a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty with the price at 1200 bucks. chevy high performance did a dyno article on the goodrench motor because chevy always shoots lower with there ratings stock out of box was about 280 w/ 345 torque with carb and intake it was somewhere around 290 for the money since you have the intake you cant beat it. They also threw in heads and cam later and ended up getting the thing to 380 hp for 2000 in cluding the motor. They also sell a vortec 383 replacement for 96-98 trucks that has over 400 on the torque side and just over 300 hp for around 2000, this just came out about 1 year ago they advertised "need more pullin power for you 88-98 truck" it also 50 state legal for the guys actually using them in a newer truck here in cali. When my motor gets tired in my 97 thats what Im going to replace it with.All youd have to buy is the vortec manifold and put your carb on.

[ChevLoRay]

Thanks for all the input. As much as I would like to keep the stock block in the truck, I don't think I'm gonna be in a position to brag that it's a "numbers matching" ride. It doesn't matter when you pay the piper, you still gotta pay him, right?

In spite of the piston slap and small amount of blow-by, it still starts and runs good. I just want it to be dependable when the Hot Rod Power Tour leaves Little Rock next June.....and I want to make the first leg of the tour. Gonna take my oldest grandson on the ride and don't want any uh-ohs.

[ChevLoRay]

Okay, Street Rodder for the month of October has an article on the 290HP/350 crate engine. They did a little bit of non-intrusive tweaking and got 320 horsepower and 343 lb-ft @ 3750RPM of torque out of it. It's got a 222/222 degree duration cam with .450 intake /.460 exhaust lift. With a 4-bolt bottom and 8.5 CR, it should live long in my truck. It's less than $2K from Summit, so hopefully my inside man at a Chevy dealership will give me a break. If not, my cousins' connections at his uncle's garage will do the trick.

So, thanks for the input, again.

[JAKES 68GMC]

If your gonna get a gm crate engine, I'd get the 260hp one. They have 350ft. lbs of torque outta the box, versus a tweaked 343ft. lbs. Just my $.02.

[streetstar]

Hmmmmmmmm ----- $12 or 1300 for a crate engine sounds good if you can get it locally w/out the shipping.

You mentioned big block in another post too, ---- i got a decent price on one from a board member a month ago. It will be rolling soon with new headers and front end accesories for about $1500. If you look around you can get 'em

A stock re-build on one of these is probably only good for 300 or so horses too, but with gobs of torque compared to a $1500 small block