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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Georgetown , TX
Posts: 166
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module testing
i think i spelled it right?
is there a way to test an HEI module without going to the autoparts store? wile im at it, i tryed to start the truck today and had no spark could the module be the only problem? the distributor, cap, rotor, wires and plugs are all new the only old part is the module.
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70 Chevy C-10 short step 250/3 on the tree Owned: 71 longbed Cheyenne 70 swb |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: CA
Posts: 2,057
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Re: module testing
the only correct way to diag an ignition module is to test eveything else... seems dumb, but those pos testers at the auto parts store just test continuity. sometimes modules will only act up at certain temps, and the parts store cannot recreate the same environment and bad modules will test good somtimes
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Georgetown , TX
Posts: 166
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Re: module testing
well i took it anyway and he said it was good and that it maybe the pickup coil. im not good at the electric part of the motor so i really dont know what that is.
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70 Chevy C-10 short step 250/3 on the tree Owned: 71 longbed Cheyenne 70 swb |
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#4 |
Black 72 Chevy
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 662
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Re: module testing
The pick up coil is on top of your distributor. Unbolt it and check continuity on the primary and secondary with an ohm meter.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=distributor
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72 Chevy, SWB, 350engine, TH400 |
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#5 |
Old Skool Club
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas"
Posts: 10,880
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Re: module testing
What I found in my HEI problem was the wire to the reluctor in the distributor was broken. It would make contact and when letting off of the gas, the vacuum advance would move and the wire connection would be broken. I fixed that problem with an Accel HEI replacement distributor. No problems since that time.
I can fix the old HEI with a new part from NAPA, but the whole distributor would need to be rebuilt...bushings, etc. It has a new 4-pin module in it and a nearly new Vette vacuum advance. So, it may not be your module, as I found out....after replacing the distributor. When you replace the module, if that is what it takes, be sure to use the dilectric grease in mounting the new part....that's what takes the heat away from the module. Without the grease, it just won't last.
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Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was. |
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#6 |
Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires
![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 23,090
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Re: module testing
Also, check your dizzy cap to be sure that you have the metal ground that goes from the cap to the coil! I've seen it missing quite a few times. There should be two grounds in the cap. I fried a coil and module because I was missing one.
If your pretty sure it's your coil and module, I think coils are like $16 bucks and modules are about the same. Be sure to use dielectric grease on everything when you reinstall.
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Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride ![]() American Born, Country by the Grace of God ![]() 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! |
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#7 |
Msgt USAF Ret
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Posts: 8,714
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Re: module testing
If you care?
http://www.rustpuppy.org/ignition2/Ignition%202b.htm
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VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative. |
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