Double wall vs. single wall

[BigRed Beast]

As a new owner (okay, I'm just keeping it warm for my son when he starts driving in two years) I'm fascinated by the double wall vs. single wall top. I notice that most prefer the single wall--weight?--and that the single wall can have interior lights, etc.

Any idea why the option was even offered? Does the double wall offer some additional sound deadening? Strength?

I have a double wall in decent shape--a few fiberglass repairs, a bit saggy in the middle, etc., and I'll clean it up for the oncoming winter, but I'd love to have optional lighting and may try to jury rig something in there.

Interested in some of the population's thoughts...

[Jtrux]

I personally prefer double walls. I just think they look better installed. That's really the only reason I have to prefer the double to the single.

[badpeanut]

Originally Posted by BigRed Beast

I have a double wall in decent shape--a few fiberglass repairs, a bit saggy in the middle, etc., and I'll clean it up for the oncoming winter, but I'd love to have optional lighting and may try to jury rig something in there.

Are your under dash courtesy lights working (one on the driver's side and one on the passenger's side)? From my experience all of the Blazers with double walls got the under dash lights. I'm not sure if the Blazers with the single walls got them.

[old man jimmy]

When I ordered my 72 in late 71 double or single wall wasn't an option. Mine came with double, and I think later ones changed to single. I like the double myself. But if you take your top off alot, the single is a lot easier. Especially if you have a roll bar which I do. To get at the bolts on double you have to take off side panels, which is a real pain with roll bar. And yes it should have a couple lights under dash. I went to bone yard years ago & pulled a dome light off one of the 70's cars that had the dome light in middle with spots w/switches on sides & mounted in the middle of roll bar. I just found picture of it taken couple weeks ago. Mounted spots backwards as use to use it for hunting camper. Hope this answers your question. Even those you didn't ask. Have fun.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Alot of people prefer the Single wall if they have the rear interior panels.
The reason is because on a single it bolts down from the top, a double is
bolted down from underneath. So on a double the rear panels have to be
removed everytime you want to remove your top. (And they have lights)

[BigRed Beast]

Makes sense that the single wall is more easily removed as the side panels don't have to come off. And, I have read before that the Blazer was available in any number of configurations with any number of options, so I could see the single wall available with lights, no lights, etc. You would think, though, that the double wall would provide a natural chase for wiring lights...

Mine does have the under dash lights on the passenger and driver side. I was thinking that I would add some coutesy lights in the rear panels by the bench seat, but the panel removal to get to the top has me re-thinking it a bit. I don't have any panels now, so removing the top after I got the beast home was a relatively easy thing (if you call trying to do it with just me and the bucket on my tractor easy--thank god no one filmed it!).

A question relating to the top: the latch and handle on the top attaches to two arms which then latch the hatch to the top. These arms require a keeper of some sort--probably just a cotter pin, or even a bent nail. Can you thread one in by just removing access plate to the guts of the latch, or is something else required? I must have looked like a monkey with the proverbial football and never did get it to work right...and it's getting to be top-on season around here...

[TonyJohnson]

Originally Posted by BigRed Beast

Makes sense that the single wall is more easily removed as the side panels don't have to come off. And, I have read before that the Blazer was available in any number of configurations with any number of options, so I could see the single wall available with lights, no lights, etc. You would think, though, that the double wall would provide a natural chase for wiring lights...

Mine does have the under dash lights on the passenger and driver side. I was thinking that I would add some coutesy lights in the rear panels by the bench seat, but the panel removal to get to the top has me re-thinking it a bit. I don't have any panels now, so removing the top after I got the beast home was a relatively easy thing (if you call trying to do it with just me and the bucket on my tractor easy--thank god no one filmed it!).

A question relating to the top: the latch and handle on the top attaches to two arms which then latch the hatch to the top. These arms require a keeper of some sort--probably just a cotter pin, or even a bent nail. Can you thread one in by just removing access plate to the guts of the latch, or is something else required? I must have looked like a monkey with the proverbial football and never did get it to work right...and it's getting to be top-on season around here...

I would love to see some pics of anything to do with the hatch mech. I've got a single wall that I adapted to a '71, but haven't gotten the mech working. I can't see how or what the side pieces grab... I should take pics of mine... I'm getting tired of my hatch bouncing on bumps.

[Blazester]

I have a double top that I've had for 8 years or so, and when I bolt it up I ONLY use the "4 CORNERS METHOD".........The 4 bolts (2 at tailgate and 2 at the VISORS) has always worked just fine. Never really have any issues with water leaking in (use caution when giving it a bath) rain NOT an issue !!!
Air noise... Yeah a little, but that is expected with a convertible, Right??

That way , I don't have to monkey with the side panel trim in the back every time I remove/add the top.

BLAZE ON
Blazester Dave

[old man jimmy]

Not sure about your question on the hatch latch. But think you're talking about the arms that hold it up. If so they bolt to hatch & top, and have an internal latch that locks when you open fully & drop it down a little. Their's also a lantch on it you can use to lock it in the open position for driving with the top hatch open. But wouldn't recomend, as fumes are bad & a big bump will bounce hatch up & release lock. Just a side note on double walls. When new they recommended when you remove them to unbolt, and pull top back just far enough to get to last set of bolt holes. Then make a brace to bolt across them. I used a piece of angle from old bed frame. The top is seamed in the middle, and can crack when lifted with no support.

[old man jimmy]

Just some fun info. on sigle vs. double tops. 72 was the change over point from double to single. But factories used up all the double before going to single. So if you got an early 72 good chance you have a double wall. Later in the model year you got a single. and the only options were, white, black, or soft. Nothing on lights. you got what you got. I still have the options page from blue book when I ordered mine somewhere. When I find it I'll post it. You guys might enjoy seeing how cheap things were.

[LUV2XCLR8]

FYI - Under dash courtesy lights are available from most our Vendors

[hgs_notes]

If you are talking about the latch rods inside the rear hatch, they are hels in place with these little clips that are similar to ones used on carb linkages. In fact, I was missing one and took the one I have to napa, thats how we matched it up. If your handle is meesed up or missing the key, you can use a garage door handle. Just shorten the length as needed. They cost about $6 at most home improvement stores.

[BigRed Beast]

Yeah, I'm sorry for not being more clear about the latches. I was referring to the latch rods connected to the locking handle. I was/am having a problem getting a needle nose with a cotter pin inside the handle area to attach those arms to the locking handle. I guess it's just one of those things that you patiently play with.

When I got the Blazer home, one side of the rear hatch wouldn't release. I took the inside cover off at the handle and saw that one of the arms was loose--the other was on by gravity or friction, that was all. Each rod slips over it own square pin and is held in place by something. As HG_NOTES said, a clip similar to ones used for carb linkages--I was thinking same cotter pin all the way, but haven't got it yet.

Good point about removing it and making sure to support it from side to side. I suppose there's an archived post for how many different systems there are for removing and storing the top--or I may post a question and see what ideas are floating around!