holley 600 adjustments?

[75shortysocal]

... truck runs ok..... the holley im using is from ebay...and looks like it hasnt been used in a while.. so when i put it on my motor, it boggs down when secondaries are opened....

i adjusted the 2 side screws, i adjusted the floats.... now it doesnt bog....

but i got on it for about 2 blocks....and burned almost a 1/4 tank...lol so now it doesnt bog........but its burning MASSIVE amounts of gas.....plust the exuast smells really strong now...

and with the accelerator pump......i have no clue how to adjust that...


any thoughts?

[Pyrotechnic]

I think a busted power valve/accelerator pump will dump lots of raw fuel in the intake. Thats just something I read, I've never even touched a Holley.

I'm mostly just posting to say that if it was stored for a long time then it probably needs a rebuild.

[bigblock79]

rebulid it will be the best

[Ivan D.]

rebuild kits are cheap, and results are worthy - my beast gets damn near 20mpg freeway with a 650 Holley double-pumper, around 15 city, before the rebuild it was more like 5mpg city and less than 10 freeway. The power valve may indeed be a problem, but then again most Holleys have only a primary power valve so it wouldn't run crappy just when the secondaries open... A needle & seat that stuck open in the secondary float bowl maybe? Or just secondary jets are way too big, and previous owner had the float level lowered in an attempt to make up for them - what jets you got?

[75shortysocal]

im off to get a rebuild kit.....i hope i can handle it....never did it...

this will come in handy..
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=230964

[Ivan D.]

rebuild ain't hard, if I could do it so can you - and that thread really nicely describes what needs done, so you'll be aight

[75shortysocal]

now it wont hold an idle...good grief i f&#@*d it up...damn..

[Ivan D.]

Turn idle screws in (clockwise) till they stop, then back them out (counterclockwise) two complete turns each. Unplug vacuum advance line off carb, cap the port off. Disconnect choke linkage, open choke manually, tie it open (bailing wire time, lol). Make sure secondaries are closed, disconnect linkages if necessary. Try firing it up now, it should run and idle by itself.

[75shortysocal]

Originally Posted by Ivan D.

Turn idle screws in (clockwise) till they stop, then back them out (counterclockwise) two complete turns each. Unplug vacuum advance line off carb, cap the port off. Disconnect choke linkage, open choke manually, tie it open (bailing wire time, lol). Make sure secondaries are closed, disconnect linkages if necessary. Try firing it up now, it should run and idle by itself.

so,

choke should be rigged permanantly open?
idle screws both 2 turns out?
vacume hose from distributor to carb disconected?

i have a question....is there any special way to install the power valve?...i just threw it on..

[75shortysocal]

dont know what i did... i adjusted the valves, got out the timing gun, put the screws 2 turns out, and now it runs fine...

it was running so bad..idle was going up and down...reving out so high...then when i put it in gear it would be so low it dies...leaste its somewhat better now...i think i may have messed up the carb rebuild..

[Ivan D.]

You're in CA, weather there is warm, having choke open means fast idle cam don't engage, so truck will idle like it will under normal operating conditions. Vacuum hose off means no vacuum advance if it was running off manifold vacuum, if it was ported then it wouldn't make no difference at all. Timing should be adjusted with no vacuum advance, so I hope when using yer timing gun the dizzy hose was pulled off. As for power valve - there ain't no special way of installing one, just screw it in till it's tight (there should be a seal between the valve and the metering block). And you haven't messed up the carb rebuild, you're just off in a/f ratios me thinks, and probably yer secondaries don't open when you ideally want them to.