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09-17-2007, 09:52 PM | #1 |
Camaro Club
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: ohio
Posts: 472
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I'm sure its been done...brakes
I have an idea that i'm sure someone on here has done so let me know if it's possible and what all new parts i'd have to buy/make. I want to buy a set of spindles with the complete disc brake assembly off of a 73-87 c-10 and use them on my 68 gmc and i want to convert my rear to 5 lug while i'm at it to match the new front. What all do i need to use the newer spindles on my truck?
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09-17-2007, 09:54 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ponca city now kingfisher Oklahoma
Posts: 1,220
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Re: I'm sure its been done...brakes
you want to pull the a arms, spindles, steering box etc. some just pull the whole front end, crossmember and all and bolt it to the 67-72 frame. I think even most of the bolts line up on the crossmember.
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Even the nicest dodge-chrysler is only 2years away from being parked outside of Section 8 housing. |
09-17-2007, 10:01 PM | #3 |
Camaro Club
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: ohio
Posts: 472
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Re: I'm sure its been done...brakes
Oh thats a little more into it than i wanna get. I was hoping maybe it was just changing the ball joints or something pretty simple like that.
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09-17-2007, 11:45 PM | #4 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,071
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Re: I'm sure its been done...brakes
Quote:
Use the 73 & later spindles w/your original a-arms by installing 73~87 ball-joints (HD 1.25" rotor application). Use a 71~72 drag-link w/71~72 tie-rods or use the easier to find 73~87 drag-link w/73~87 tie-rods. The idler & pitman are specific to the build: manual or pwr steer. For power disc brakes, use the 67~72 pwr brake bracket for the firewall, a 71~72 pwr booster & a 71~72 disc brake mstr cylinder. For manual disc brakes, use a 73~80 manual disc brake master cylinder. You can use 71~72 rubber brake lines & 71~72 hard lines that snake along the rear of the engine crossmember (you'll need the 71~72 prop valve that is located under/by the master cyl) or..... you can use the 73~87 rubber & hard lines (you'll need a 73~80 prop valve that's located on the front splash shield). The 73~80 hard lines require slight 'tweaking' but they will work no-probs. For the rear, just get new aftermarket axles in 5-lug. They're typically 30% stronger than factory axles & don't have 35+yrs of bearing wear. Add some 71~72 drums & don't forget the 1/2" lug nuts (x20) 'cause the studs go from 7/16" to 1/2" when upgrading to discs. Axles are available from Early Classics, Classic Perf Products, Moser & prob others too.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 09-17-2007 at 11:50 PM. |
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