Resto...Rebuild factory SAC...or...Use Vintage Air?

[70cst]

As many of you know I am planning on the resto of my 70cst this fall and winter. From my research the cost of refurbishing the factory AC will be about the same cost as a new Vintage Air system. The Vintage Air uses the factory vents and controls. I want to keep my truck as close to stock looking as possible but I have changed out the 6 lug to 5 lug and it will be lowered a bit....so it has been modified a wee bit. So is the Vintage Air more efficient than the factory ac? My truck has a factory 402 BB verses a 350...does that make any difference? What recommendations do you all have? Do I stick with my factory system or change it over? Thanks in advance.
PS...what about other aftermarket ac systems?

[ChevLoRay]

There was a post on here a few days ago, listing a complete system for our trucks. I noticed in the last issue of Classic Trucks that the same company also has compressor kit to replace the old-style compressors we have and include everything we need to upgrade (reliably) to a new compressor and R-134.

Check out www.classicautoair.com for details.

[70cst]

Thanks ChevLoRay...
I appreciate the info.

[SactoJim]

If you're trying to leave it as stock appearing as possible then I would restore the stock AC system.

After market systems drastically change the look inside the engine compartment and if your trying to maintain that "stock" look why change, especially if you already have all the components for a stock AC system.

Aftermarket systems (like Vintage Air) work pretty good, but so does a properly operating factory AC system.

My truck had factory air, but I chose to put a Vintage AC system in it to mainly clean up the engine compartment.

[70cst]

You are correct SactoJim...I do want to keep it as close to stock looking as I can. I went to the www.classicautoair.com site and it looked like they have all that I need to do a full factory restore. The factory ac is all there as it just needs to be rebuilt. With that being said I think I am convincing myself to stay factory. Thanks again.

[GSFMECH]

I'm running the factory AC with a POA eliminator made by Old air products. I have mine converted to 134A. There is a real good write up in the FAQ for doing this. I think you could rebuild it for half what a aftermarket cost if your evaporator and condensor are still useable but the aftermarket condensor really helps them cool better as well. Check it out in the FAQ.

Mike

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by 70cst

You are correct SactoJim...I do want to keep it as close to stock looking as I can. I went to the www.classicautoair.com site and it looked like they have all that I need to do a full factory restore. The factory ac is all there as it just needs to be rebuilt. With that being said I think I am convincing myself to stay factory. Thanks again.

I would keep it stock. Almost. I'd use R134a instead of R12. R12 is much more efficient i.e. colder than R134a but a pick-up cab is pretty small so converting to R134a is financially a good decision.

Convert you POA to work with R134a.
Read this:
http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...&threadid=7567

All you need to do is the procedure outlined in the above forum thread.
Then:
Replace all your o-rings. ($10 at ackits)
New receiver dryer. $30-$40
New hose assembly ($90 at LMC)
Buy your R134a at Wal*Mart on clearance in the fall for $3/can.
Oh and you'll need approximately 10 ounces of oil that works with R134a. I've seen that on the shelf at NAPA.

I can't provide a link but I read somewhere that those old A6 compressors don't like to cycle on and off. I believe the POA eliminator cycles the compressor. That is sort of like expecing your grandpa's plow horse to run a race with Secretariat. Or Secretariat to pull your grandpa's plow. Both horses are really good at what they were bread to do only I wouldn't expect one to do the other's job.

[70cst]

[QUOTE]Convert you POA to work with R134a.
Read this:
http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...&threadid=7567[/QUOTE]
Thanks mrein3...
That is very good info.

[GSFMECH]

Yes the POA eliminator adds a switch to allow it to cycle. The A-6 has no problem cycling or at least I've never had any problem with them. GM changed the setup in 73 and eliminated the POA anyway. They cycled using line pressure after that. I think they used the A6 up until about 80 or so. I have ran mine several years cycling and my compessor is a cheap rebuild bought from Auto zone in 95. I first converted mine to 134A in the mid 90's and I can promise you the POA eliminator was the single best thing I ever did to it. To keep the POA you will need to reset it for the proper operating pressure to work with 134A. BobbyK has a good write up in the FAQ but I think he used a Sanden compressor with the stock AC.

Mike