ok guys i need some help with a problem on my 67 burb

[project 67 sub]

well i figured that i would ask here because their are more people that traffic this area than the burb area. but anyways here is my problem that i am having. i lowered the back of my burb 2"s with lowering springs and the rearend is not centered, it is off (shifted to the passenger side) and i would like to know what i can do to center it evenly from side to side? it is also causing my tires to rub. what can i buy(and were do i get it) that will solve this side to side alignment problem?

[qksilver]

you need to get an adjustable panard bar, aftermarket. The site vender's can help you out with that

[FRENCHBLUE72]

This is a coil spring burb right and not a leaf??

[earl87gta]

http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog.aspx they call it a Super Track Bar Kits

[RunninLo]

As previously mentioned it is in fact caused by your panhard bar. As the bar swings through its arc it will deflect from side to side. Your bar would normally drop as it went from it's mount on the driver side frame to the stock mount where the diff casting meets the passenger axle tube .Since you've lowered the burb, in effect raising the axle in relation to the frame, the bar is now more level in it's arc. this has the effect of pushing the axle to the passenger side.
Since you are a "static" drop, a replacement adjustable panhard would do the trick. On the cheap you could cut the axle end off your panhard bar and drill and tap it for a hiem of suitable size with a jam nut. Ideally replacing your stock rod with a longer one will minimize the arcing effect. In the past I've made my own with the axle mount on the spring perch in effect adding about a foot of length.
If your thinking about going to an adjustable susp. (air,juice) at anytime in the near future my opinion would be to run a watts style link as this will keep the axle centered through the travel.

josh

[19673ontree]

any pics of said burb ?

[project 67 sub]

Originally Posted by RunninLo

As previously mentioned it is in fact caused by your panhard bar. As the bar swings through its arc it will deflect from side to side. Your bar would normally drop as it went from it's mount on the driver side frame to the stock mount where the diff casting meets the passenger axle tube .Since you've lowered the burb, in effect raising the axle in relation to the frame, the bar is now more level in it's arc. this has the effect of pushing the axle to the passenger side.
Since you are a "static" drop, a replacement adjustable panhard would do the trick. On the cheap you could cut the axle end off your panhard bar and drill and tap it for a hiem of suitable size with a jam nut. Ideally replacing your stock rod with a longer one will minimize the arcing effect. In the past I've made my own with the axle mount on the spring perch in effect adding about a foot of length.
If your thinking about going to an adjustable susp. (air,juice) at anytime in the near future my opinion would be to run a watts style link as this will keep the axle centered through the travel.

josh

yes i plan on doing a full air ride suspension later on down the road. this watts link your talking about, how well do they work and how much do they cost, and were can i get one that will work with my 12 bolt diff?

Originally Posted by 19673ontree

any pics of said burb ?

i dont have any current pics of the burb, but here are a couple of pics from a couple months ago before i raised it back up for a while(temporarily).







and a photo shop of close to what it will someday look like

[project 67 sub]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

This is a coil spring burb right and not a leaf??

yes, its a coil spring 1/2 ton burb

[earl87gta]

Speed way sells them for the same price as an adj panhard there is just some welding involved its not a direct bolt in like the pannhard bar is.

[earl87gta]

cheaper then I thought on $69 for the kit http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3398...l?itemNo=watts

[project 67 sub]

Originally Posted by earl87gta

cheaper then I thought on $69 for the kit http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3398...l?itemNo=watts

were can i get one that will work with my 12 bolt diff. that would be a bolt in deal, and how much?

[dave2953]

I got mine at Early Classic (www.earlyclassic.com) I think they are on sale now for $109, and it's a high quality piece. It will work with your 12 bolt, too.

[RunninLo]

don't forget about the KP components unit. Nathan @ porterbuilt is a distributor for KP AND a site vendor and Clint (Kontrol Phreaks) is a member here. Nothing like supporting those that support the board. The KP unit is designed to be bolt in for the 67-72 trucks with 10 or 12 bolt ( specify when ordering) and should work with our burbs. I hope to find out very soon and post pics to my build thread.

[RunninLo]

Forgot to mention the KP unit is in final development and pricing isn't yet finalized. One important thing if you build your own kit or buy a universal kit, make sure that your watts is set up so that the bars the come in from the frame to the pivot are level at ride height. To be perfectly honest I'm not sure why but guys way smarter than I told me to do it that way when I built my first one from scratch.
Josh