4x4 Disc Brake?'s

[Husker]

I am in the process of gathering the parts needed to change from Drum brakes to Disc. I am going to replace the whole front differential.
I have searched the archives for writeups and there does not appear to be any 1 writeup that goes into much detail on what works the best as far as just front and both front and rear axle swaps and what needs done. If anyone has 1 send it my way.
Some writeups are for 3/4 ton and state the rear will need mods if swapped out. Some newer axles not being same width etc
I am doing a 1/2 ton swap.
Hope this is not to confusing any help would help greatly. I think I know what I need but not totaly sure.
If someone could do a complete proper writeup for the FAQ section on both the 3/4 and the 1/2 tons seperate would be a Plus.
Thanks
Ron
4huskrs@charter.net

[Classic Bowties]

Ron, it would pretty much be a straight forward deal if you locate a matched set of 1/2 ton axles out of any 71 or 72 4wd GM truck, blazer or burb. You could also figure out what gear ratio axles you have now and (if currently happy w/ratio) then just shop for the correctly geared disk brake D44 front axle, and just leave your rear as it is. Cb

[jerry moss]

any front differential up thru 87 on pickups and 91 on blazer/suburban will bolt right in. on 73 up rears, you'll need to move the spring pads and one shock mount.

[1969k10stepside]

I noticed from your signature you said it was a 1970.It should have an open knuckle axle,with drums so then you dont even need to swap axles.That was a 70 only thing.69 and older was closed knuckle with drums,and 71 and up was open knuckle and discs.You just need the rotors,calipers,etc and bolt them on the existing axle.I dont know all the specifics as to what you need to do the swap.Keep in line the brake lines differ too from drums to discs.

[Husker]

I was givin a front from an 84 1/2 ton it has 3.73, I currently have 3.07's. I think I would be happier with the 3.73's (currently 31's).
It would be easire finding aset of 71-72 diffs but would be harder than later model.
In the FAQ section it states that on 3/4 ton you would have to move the spring pads and shock mount, I guess I was thinking 1/2 and 3/4 tons were different.
And When I redid my Jeep CJ I swapped to disc on it and went the route of finding all the parts that I needed, I think it would have been cheaper to just replace the whole diff out. I have been keeping an eye open for the parts needed to swap on my 44 but most people sell everything separately.

It will be cheaper to replace the whole diff and maybe regear rear.
In the FAQ section if someone would write a deal up on this the Mods could clean out all the other writeups.

When i swap brake lines do I just swap out flexible lines to the axles or all of them?

Thanbks for all of your help appreciate it
Ron

[Jvan]

Not to hyjack this thread, but as far as rear disc brakes for 4X4, I know there are aftermarket kits but I see forum member seeing brackets and kits to use camero or caprice rear calipers. I don't see anyone discussing the OEM rear rotors/caliper from late model pickups.burbs, tahoe, escalids, etc. I would think the rotors/calipers from the trucks/SUV's would handle the weight of a fully loaded pickup or Blazer better than a car based system. I realize that swapping a complete axle might not work because of weight but fitting a rotor/ caloper should work.Has anyone used late model rear OEM rotors/calipers for early model trucks/blazers?

[moose83772]

the only problem with trying to use the rotors off of a newer truck or suv is that they have an e brake drum set up inside the rear rotor. this creates a very large offset. if you are interested in a rear brake set up send me a pm and i can show you a couple that i have been working on. as for the front axle i would just swap the outer parts as mentioned earlier.

[earl87gta]

if you dont want to use the 3:73 gear front for now every thing from the knuckle ouy will go on the axle you have with the 3:07s. You could just swap it all over until you decide what to do with the rear. just make sure you use your knuckles so you can keep the flat top knuckles on your truck.

[OLDCHEV4X4]

Keep in mind flat top drum brake knuckles are different from flat top disc brake knuckles. The spindle mounting bolt pattern is clocked differently. This is where the caliper bolts up.

[earl87gta]

Tanks I didnt know that I was told once they were the same.

[Husker]

Thanks for the Replies.
So if I just swap the Knuckles Out or maybe use the original knuckles everything will bolt up to the Original axle?
On brake lines do I need to replace all them for the front or just the Flexible Lines on the front?
Thanks again
Ron

[earl87gta]

you sould be able to replace the knuckles out and only have to replace the rubber break lines.

[Husker]

One more thing just to be sure.
The Disc axle is a GM 10 bolt and the stock is a Dana 44 will everything still work?
Thanks again for all the help
Ron

[earl87gta]

Yes there the same from the knuckles out. people swap the flat top 44 knuckles on to the 10 bls all the time .

[Husker]

Thanks you have been a BIG Help.
Take Care
Ron

[earl87gta]

no problem glad to help

[msgross]

look at my build thread and you will see my 10 bolt in the 68. FYI the brake lines and calipers on 10-bolts use metric banjo bolts vs. the standard size on a Dana 44. other than that there aren't many differences. I also have a thread on Dana 44 vs 10-bolt located here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=240456