Lower Ball Joints - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Bucky71 · 10-31-2007, 03:27 PM

When replacing the lower ball joints, what's the best/easiest way to get them out of the control arms (assuming the arms are still on the truck) ?

herb101 · 10-31-2007, 03:39 PM

I would use the C-Clamp style ball-joint press. You can buy them for around $70-$100 at Harbor Freight or get them on the loan-a-tool programs at AutoZone or other parts shacks.

Herb

clemson71guy · 10-31-2007, 05:23 PM

take them somewhere that has a press and get them pressed out.

PanelDeland · 10-31-2007, 07:25 PM

I think I gave about $40.00 for the ball joint press I have at HF or NT.Looks like the ones I have seen for much more other places.I will be using it in a couple weeks.

Tynee · 11-01-2007, 11:56 AM

When I did this, I had absolutely no luck getting the ball joints out, even with the press. On my '71, the press would not open wide enough to get around the joint. I may have been misusing the tool, its hard to say. For just a little more, I went ahead and took the control arms out, replaced all the bushings, and had a front end shop press the old bearings out and press the new ones in while I had the arms out of the truck.

68speedalert · 11-01-2007, 12:41 PM

A large BFH (big friggen hammer) will usually get them out. Use a bottle jack or jack stand under the control arm, get the spindle out of the way, and start smacking the joint straight out the bottom. Now you'll likely need the press to get the new ones in.

Tynee · 11-01-2007, 12:46 PM

Yeah, I tried the BFH before I went and got the press. All I could accomplish that way was shaping the end of the stud like a mushroom.

Elsie72 · 11-01-2007, 01:37 PM

Here's how I've done it, and have been 95% successful:
Remove cotter pin from ball joint, and loosen nut off but don't remove.

Now take a good sized hammer, and smack the spindle on the flat along where the ball joint runs through the spindle. The spring will keep tension on the ball joint, and once it moves, put your jack under the ball joint, remove the nut, and slowly lower the jack - usuallly only takes 2-3 smacks, and sometimes a little penetrating oil.

I always see the guys on T-V using the pickle fork, which works, but usually destroys the rubber boot in the process.

This works for steering joints, too!

cdowns · 11-01-2007, 01:55 PM

bought this press from jcwhitney about $40-$50 a number of years ago works great on pressed in ball joints. ujoints, trailing arm bushings ,panhard bushings, 4bar bushings and a number of other things that i dont recall

Cobraguy · 11-01-2007, 02:34 PM

when using th BFH method you don't want to hit it on the end of the stud lay the ball joint back towards the spring & hit it on the boot/ball area
& as long as you don't swing like a girl it should be out in 2 -4 hits. I've removed 100s this way without any problems. You will need a balljoint press to install the new part.

68speedalert · 11-01-2007, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobraguy

when using th BFH method you don't want to hit it on the end of the stud lay the ball joint back towards the spring & hit it on the boot/ball area
& as long as you don't swing like a girl it should be out in 2 -4 hits. I've removed 100s this way without any problems. You will need a balljoint press to install the new part.

Done it by your method and also by smacking the stud. Sometimes you need to hit it on one side and then the opposite side and walk it out.

I've done 100s as well.

The key is having the control arm solid on the jack or stand. any bounce in it will cancel your BFH hit.

jeffnohio · 11-01-2007, 02:55 PM

Great Topic .. I was just about to tackle this project

70rs/ss · 11-01-2007, 03:41 PM

I used something similar to cdowns tool, big C clamp with a couple of different sized pipes. Found the correct size, hit it with the impact, popped the old out and the new in in a 3 minutes, same for the other side, easy as cake!! Autozone has a loaner program or do the harbor frieght if you ever plan to work on more than one vehicle in your lifetime.

10-31-2007, 03:27 PM	#1
Bucky71 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toronto, On Posts: 65	Lower Ball Joints When replacing the lower ball joints, what's the best/easiest way to get them out of the control arms (assuming the arms are still on the truck) ?

10-31-2007, 03:39 PM	#2
herb101 Used Register Join Date: May 2005 Location: Live Oak, TX Posts: 379	Re: Lower Ball Joints I would use the C-Clamp style ball-joint press. You can buy them for around $70-$100 at Harbor Freight or get them on the loan-a-tool programs at AutoZone or other parts shacks. Herb

10-31-2007, 05:23 PM	#3
clemson71guy Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: north carolina Posts: 470	Re: Lower Ball Joints take them somewhere that has a press and get them pressed out.

10-31-2007, 07:25 PM	#4
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	Re: Lower Ball Joints I think I gave about $40.00 for the ball joint press I have at HF or NT.Looks like the ones I have seen for much more other places.I will be using it in a couple weeks. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil" Last edited by PanelDeland; 10-31-2007 at 07:25 PM.

11-01-2007, 11:56 AM	#5
Tynee I miss this truck. Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Lexington, KY U.S.A. Posts: 2,863	Re: Lower Ball Joints When I did this, I had absolutely no luck getting the ball joints out, even with the press. On my '71, the press would not open wide enough to get around the joint. I may have been misusing the tool, its hard to say. For just a little more, I went ahead and took the control arms out, replaced all the bushings, and had a front end shop press the old bearings out and press the new ones in while I had the arms out of the truck. __________________ '07 GMC Acadia SLT. Sweet ride. '08 Crew Cab Z-71 short bed. Really like this truck A LOT.

11-01-2007, 12:41 PM	#6
68speedalert Semi-Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Washington, MO Posts: 390	Re: Lower Ball Joints A large BFH (big friggen hammer) will usually get them out. Use a bottle jack or jack stand under the control arm, get the spindle out of the way, and start smacking the joint straight out the bottom. Now you'll likely need the press to get the new ones in. __________________ '68 50th Anniversery LWB Custom Fleetside, '77 305 v-8, turbo 350, factory speed alert (still works), '71 drivetrain w/front discs. Some call it ugly yellow, others call it Ochre '83 Jeep CJ-7, <80,000 miles, original owner '04 Chevy Suburban, 4x4, 2500, 6.0 ltr, Predator Diablo programmer '95 GMC K1500 Extended cab

11-01-2007, 12:46 PM	#7
Tynee I miss this truck. Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Lexington, KY U.S.A. Posts: 2,863	Re: Lower Ball Joints Yeah, I tried the BFH before I went and got the press. All I could accomplish that way was shaping the end of the stud like a mushroom. __________________ '07 GMC Acadia SLT. Sweet ride. '08 Crew Cab Z-71 short bed. Really like this truck A LOT.

11-01-2007, 01:37 PM	#8
Elsie72 Chinook Arch Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: High River, Alberta, Canada Posts: 218	Re: Lower Ball Joints Here's how I've done it, and have been 95% successful: Remove cotter pin from ball joint, and loosen nut off but don't remove. Now take a good sized hammer, and smack the spindle on the flat along where the ball joint runs through the spindle. The spring will keep tension on the ball joint, and once it moves, put your jack under the ball joint, remove the nut, and slowly lower the jack - usuallly only takes 2-3 smacks, and sometimes a little penetrating oil. I always see the guys on T-V using the pickle fork, which works, but usually destroys the rubber boot in the process. This works for steering joints, too! __________________ 1972 GMC 1500 Custom - Bought used by Grandpa in '74, currently back on the road after a long hiatus. Elsie's truck 2.5" dual exhaust with Hooker Aero Chambers Holley 670 Street Avenger Edelbrock Performer RPM on GMPP 290HP 350 ECE drop 3.5/5 Last edited by Elsie72; 11-01-2007 at 01:38 PM.

11-01-2007, 01:55 PM	#9
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: Lower Ball Joints bought this press from jcwhitney about $40-$50 a number of years ago works great on pressed in ball joints. ujoints, trailing arm bushings ,panhard bushings, 4bar bushings and a number of other things that i dont recall Attached Images __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

11-01-2007, 02:34 PM	#10
Cobraguy Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 22	Re: Lower Ball Joints when using th BFH method you don't want to hit it on the end of the stud lay the ball joint back towards the spring & hit it on the boot/ball area & as long as you don't swing like a girl it should be out in 2 -4 hits. I've removed 100s this way without any problems. You will need a balljoint press to install the new part. __________________ 70 Chevy LB

11-01-2007, 02:55 PM	#12
jeffnohio Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: NW Ohio Posts: 58	Re: Lower Ball Joints Great Topic .. I was just about to tackle this project __________________ Jeff 1967 GMC 3/4ton LWB, Orginal Straight 6, 4 on the floor Project truck

11-01-2007, 03:41 PM	#13
70rs/ss Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Northern AZ Posts: 7,271	Re: Lower Ball Joints I used something similar to cdowns tool, big C clamp with a couple of different sized pipes. Found the correct size, hit it with the impact, popped the old out and the new in in a 3 minutes, same for the other side, easy as cake!! Autozone has a loaner program or do the harbor frieght if you ever plan to work on more than one vehicle in your lifetime.



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