Zed rear with a notch?

[Laid out 67 small]

I have a 1967 1/2 ton lwb small window that I am converting to a swb.I found a real nice swb frame on craigs list for $100,Then I found this site.I decided that I wanted to notch it since I have the frame in bare form,so I bought a rear 7" notch and installed it.I also z'ed the frame in the front 3 1/2" AND 3" spindels and dropped the body mounts 1".I am running 20" with 255/35/20 in the front,and 285/50/20 in the rears.(I want to upgrade to 22" so I used a big tire for mock-up(31")I am building this truck on a budget ,so I want to run stock trailing arms with a 3" blocks.( but still not low enough in the rear)

This is the ?I want to z the rear frame behind the cab 3 1/2" like the front.I was thinking that would give Me the added clearance in the rear to drag the bed.I was thinking that this would give Me an extra 31/2" in the rear notch by raising the frame rails therefore lifting the notch.I dont want to link it and even if I did there is no more room in the notch to go lower.It would also give Me room to run a sway bar.Has anyone seen this set up?Would I have to notch the very rear horns like I did to the fronts? If so do You have pics or advice??I also want to know about budget steering solutions also?

This is a pic of the truck I'm building.It is 100% rust free and the bed I scored is a swb with a wood bed kit and no rust.I will keep the lwb and frame so if i ever want to convert it back I can.I will post pics of the frame and all I've done so far tommorrow.

[gringoloco]

Looks like a nice truck to start with. Frame pics would be cool Check out Rokcrln's "Slow Build"- it's the only one I've seen pics of with a Z'd rear.

[BACKYARD88]

Slow Build is the only rear notch I've seen. You shouldn't have to drop your rear horns unless you're planning on running a rear bumper, you'll need to re-mount your bed because of the Z anyhow. I'm ready for some pics, sounds sweet!

[Laid out 67 small]

Ok,this is My first time doing these mods.I've always wanted a 67 swb small window that lays rockers.I found a 67 lwb w/39k orig 100% rust-free about three years ago and just now found a rust free swb to match.I brought home a swb frame ,went to the scrap yard,and found this site.I've welded before just for fun and figued I would give it a shot.(It's just metal) am doing this work at My sisters house cause the last time I changed a tire in My driveway I got fined $150 by the hoa.

At this point Ive welded in the notches,cross braces,dropped mounts 1",Z'ed the front frame 3 1/2".I am very open to Your opinions or comments.I am building this truck on a budget so I'm not down with the mail order high$ items.I am looking to be resorceful and find a way to do this for the least amount of cash I can.I have six other cars and a big house and two kids and a over spending wife suckin on My titties.lol.I bought 3" spindels and 20" rims and tires that are not pictured yet.I have taken pictures of the point at the rear of the frame that I was thinking of notching?Could I get away with an 1.25 " crossmember drop? (steering wise)Do I need it to lay low pro 20's?Does My front z need more boxin in the rear part of the frame?Whats My best bet to using the factorysteering and getting around the arm?Does anyone know how much drop is possible using crossmember notch and z combo before I wouldnt be able to use factory steering? Does anyone have pis of the center support/ trailing arm bracket that has been leveled out and reenforced and drilled for exh. pipe?I was thinking that Zing the rear frome would let Me use the factory trailing arms and getting just as low as the 4 linked trucks?I was thinking 3 1/2" like the front?I plan on liftting the wood bed floor and tubs.I dont expect there to be much bed left after a z and a notch.I am plannig to do the rear z on sat so I will post some more pics on sunday.

[Laid out 67 small]

Front Z pics.

[Laid out 67 small]

More pics.

[Laid out 67 small]

pics

[BACKYARD88]

I have a 3" Z and 1.25: cross member notch and I could lay easy on 20s with spindles. I don't think there's any way you're going to clear the upper control arm with the factory steering shaft though. I even thought about moving the column up where it comes through the firewall but it still wouldn't clear and you've dropped your body an inch which adds that much more to the issue. As far as using the factory steering(assuming you're talking about the drag link/tie rods etc) I think 1.25" is about the max. I've heard folks go 1.50" but they end up needing a LOT of clearancing for that extra .25". What you've done so far looks good! I wouldn't reinforce any more if it was mine, but you can take that for what it's worth

[Laid out 67 small]

Thanks for the info.I read what You suggested to gringo loco about flipping the trailing arm brackets to change the pinion angle.I was thinking that with the rear Z that it might be perfect cause it hits soonner on the frame,but with the rear 31/2 " Z it should fix the angle and the Z should fix the clearance issue.What did You do with the steering?Do You think if I notched the crossmember 1" only under the frame rails that that would work?I am worried about oil pan & steering rod on the c.m. hittin?Thanks again

[BACKYARD88]

I have a 3" Z and 1.25" c/member section. If you do 3.5" Z and 1" section you'll only be .25" off of mine. I don't think that will be a problem. I also plan to build my own engine mounts so I can take care of any clearance issues then. Check my build thread, there's alot of pics of my set up in there. You might get some ideas if you see some of it.

[gringoloco]

Section the crossmember instead of notching it and you will eliminate any oilpan/motor mount problems.

[BACKYARD88]

I sectioned mine instead of notching. It can't be any more work than notching and you get a better result.

[Laid out 67 small]

O.K. I did it. I Z'ed the rear 4 1/2".I'll post pics later tonight.

[Laid out 67 small]

Here are the pics of the rear Z.I ended up going 4 1/2".The rear trailing arms clear nice.I still have to install a 3" block and correct the pinion angle the best I can.I was thinking of flipping the trailing arm brackets when I chop and flaten out the bottom & cut the drive shaft support for exh. holes. I also want to section the front crossmember 1.25" and install 3" lower cups made from 8" tube.Please let Me know what You think???

[Laid out 67 small]

More pics.

[Laid out 67 small]

[Laid out 67 small]

[PrerunnerRob]

I might be missing something here, but is there a reason for z-ing the rear of the frame instead of just making the notch taller?

[XXL]

Originally Posted by BACKYARD88

I think 1.25" is about the max. I've heard folks go 1.50" but they end up needing a LOT of clearancing for that extra .25".

I've got a 1.5" sectioned xmember. Steering linkage required 2 u-joints to clear the upper control arm, but otherwise it's all stock parts.

[BACKYARD88]

The rear notch looks good! Sound like a good idea on the front too.

Originally Posted by PrerunnerRob

I might be missing something here, but is there a reason for z-ing the rear of the frame instead of just making the notch taller?

I believe he Zd the rear so he would have more clearance between the frame and the stock trailing arms.

Originally Posted by XXL

I've got a 1.5" sectioned xmember. Steering linkage required 2 u-joints to clear the upper control arm, but otherwise it's all stock parts.

Cool. I had to do alot of work on my lower control arms to clear the 1.25" but that may be because they are off of an 85 truck. What year are your arms if you don't mind my asking?

[XXL]

Originally Posted by BACKYARD88

Cool. I had to do alot of work on my lower control arms to clear the 1.25" but that may be because they are off of an 85 truck. What year are your arms if you don't mind my asking?

Arms are actually ART early-run units, but their weren't any clearance issues that the stock arm would have had trouble with. For the upper arm, there's slightly more clearance with the ART arm, but the second u-joint solves that with the stock arm as well.

[Laid out 67 small]

Thanks.Do You think it needs any more boxin to the rear frame rails?I'm going to chop the x member 1.2" next sat.I'm going the do the whole thing instead of just notching them.

[BACKYARD88]

Originally Posted by XXL

Arms are actually ART early-run units, but their weren't any clearance issues that the stock arm would have had trouble with. For the upper arm, there's slightly more clearance with the ART arm, but the second u-joint solves that with the stock arm as well.

I see what you're saying now. I was talking about clearance between the idler and pitman arms and the lower control arm. I just mis-understood.

[BACKYARD88]

Originally Posted by Laid out 67 small

Thanks.Do You think it needs any more boxin to the rear frame rails?I'm going to chop the x member 1.2" next sat.I'm going the do the whole thing instead of just notching them.

It looks to me like what you have should be stronger than the original stuff. Sectioning the whole thing is best. I welded a piece of angle from the top of one upper control arm mounting plate to the other and one from one side to the other in the area where the engine stands bolt to keep it from flexing from the heat, it worked out well.

[Laid out 67 small]

Originally Posted by BACKYARD88

It looks to me like what you have should be stronger than the original stuff. Sectioning the whole thing is best. I welded a piece of angle from the top of one upper control arm mounting plate to the other and one from one side to the other in the area where the engine stands bolt to keep it from flexing from the heat, it worked out well.

Cool.Thats what I'll do.I saw how You did it on Your build thread.What did You use to cut the cup holes on Your lower a arms?