getting down and dirty with the rear end - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jay-dawg · 10-07-2002, 02:10 PM

Hi guys,
I am finally getting down to the nitty gritty stuff on the back end of the truck. I got the panhard rod out. I'm planning to go with the ECE panhard rod because I'm going to bag it.

My question is does the stud for the panhard rod on the rear end come out or do I need to cut it off? Next question is will grinding off the mounting hole affect the rigidity of the rear end? Last question is what is involved in overhauling the rear end? I mean I might as well do some maintenace work while I have it out. My neighbor also told me to change the bushings on the driveshaft.

Well thats all for now.

jay

**1971Stepside** · 10-07-2002, 02:26 PM

The pin does come out. Loosen the nut on the front side of the axle and give it a couple wacks with the old 3lb hammer and it will pop out. You can cut the anchor off without hurting the axle rigidity. I left mine in case I ever decide to go to a 9". It would make resale of the 12 bolt much easier. Early Classic told me that they simply fill the hole with a piece of aluminum capping. That is what I plan to do as well.

As far as a rebuild it would be a good time to replace bearings and seals in your rearend.

*racedvl* · 10-07-2002, 04:03 PM

Driveshaft bushings?

jay-dawg · 10-07-2002, 04:07 PM

yeah i know i'm an amateur at this stuff. please disregard any stupidity that I post. But set me straight.

anyway,
thanks for the info 1971 stepside. I'll check their site to see what it looks like.

oh...what should I tell the guy at the napa counter...do they have a rear end rebuild kit? I mean I dont want to go in their and tell them that I need bushings for my drive shaft. lol

jay

**1971Stepside** · 10-07-2002, 04:16 PM

yeah, I think you mean u-joints. You want to for sure replace them. They around 10 bucks. If you look on ECE web site you will need to look at the pics of the restore job on the red 68. I don't remember seeing a picture of that, but they told me about it on the phone.

71402BB · 10-07-2002, 05:21 PM

You might want to also replace the carrier bearing as well!

**COBALT** · 10-07-2002, 06:53 PM

I'd replace the following:

1. U-joints
2. Center support bearing (if you have one).
3. Trailing arm bushings.
4. Coil and U-bolt hardware.

I plan on yanking my rear axle here pretty soon, but only to replace #3 and #4 (#1 and #2 are already done!). Anything that takes wear back there should be replaced. I'd replace the axle seals too.

10-07-2002, 04:16 PM	#5
1971Stepside Almost Satisfied Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,932	yeah, I think you mean u-joints. You want to for sure replace them. They around 10 bucks. If you look on ECE web site you will need to look at the pics of the restore job on the red 68. I don't remember seeing a picture of that, but they told me about it on the phone. __________________ 1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far."

10-07-2002, 05:21 PM	#6
71402BB now thats a true COON DOG Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Franconia, NH Posts: 1,977	You might want to also replace the carrier bearing as well! __________________ current project 67 402BB stout th350 3.08's with a locker. Plan on tubs 18.5's out back! (thanks Burnsman!) 71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's ( was crushed by a tree, bed sold, motor pulled) was my first truck!... oh well... 72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!) 68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE work in progress, soon to have 250-I6 with a 3-speed on the tree 4.11's and posi ( currently sitting in back yard tarped awaiting time, $$$, and lots of love!) 67 1 TON- work truck 396 sm 420 4-speed, flat bed 4.57 gears "big red" (my first landscape truck, very rusty and crusty! but still gets the job done when needed!)

10-07-2002, 06:53 PM	#7
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	I'd replace the following: 1. U-joints 2. Center support bearing (if you have one). 3. Trailing arm bushings. 4. Coil and U-bolt hardware. I plan on yanking my rear axle here pretty soon, but only to replace #3 and #4 (#1 and #2 are already done!). Anything that takes wear back there should be replaced. I'd replace the axle seals too. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-07-2002, 02:10 PM	#1
jay-dawg chevelito Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI USA Posts: 1,609	getting down and dirty with the rear end Hi guys, I am finally getting down to the nitty gritty stuff on the back end of the truck. I got the panhard rod out. I'm planning to go with the ECE panhard rod because I'm going to bag it. My question is does the stud for the panhard rod on the rear end come out or do I need to cut it off? Next question is will grinding off the mounting hole affect the rigidity of the rear end? Last question is what is involved in overhauling the rear end? I mean I might as well do some maintenace work while I have it out. My neighbor also told me to change the bushings on the driveshaft. Well thats all for now. jay __________________ New deadline...when my son can drive. Aloha from Honolulu, HI

10-07-2002, 02:26 PM	#2
1971Stepside Almost Satisfied Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,932	The pin does come out. Loosen the nut on the front side of the axle and give it a couple wacks with the old 3lb hammer and it will pop out. You can cut the anchor off without hurting the axle rigidity. I left mine in case I ever decide to go to a 9". It would make resale of the 12 bolt much easier. Early Classic told me that they simply fill the hole with a piece of aluminum capping. That is what I plan to do as well. As far as a rebuild it would be a good time to replace bearings and seals in your rearend. __________________ 1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far."

10-07-2002, 04:03 PM	#3
racedvl Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 7,020	Driveshaft bushings?

10-07-2002, 04:07 PM	#4
jay-dawg chevelito Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI USA Posts: 1,609	yeah i know i'm an amateur at this stuff. please disregard any stupidity that I post. But set me straight. anyway, thanks for the info 1971 stepside. I'll check their site to see what it looks like. oh...what should I tell the guy at the napa counter...do they have a rear end rebuild kit? I mean I dont want to go in their and tell them that I need bushings for my drive shaft. lol jay __________________ New deadline...when my son can drive. Aloha from Honolulu, HI Last edited by jay-dawg; 10-07-2002 at 04:20 PM.



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