Any special tricks to doing drum brakes on my Dana 60??? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**tkeduk8r** · 11-10-2007, 08:33 PM

Im doing new shoes and pads on my new (to me) 72 c20... and just wondering if there are any tricks to doing the brakes on the Dana 60... Im planning on doing not only the shoes but also a gear lube change and possibly axle seals... any suggestions???
--Mike

masterbeavis · 11-10-2007, 09:58 PM

Yes. Take both drums off, only do one side at a time. Keep one side intact for reference. Axle seals are on the backside of the hub. Find yourself a brass punch, prop the hub up on some 4 X 4's, whack the inner bearing side to side till the seal comes out. Thoroughly clean the bearings and hubs, repack in grease, drive on the new seal.

Take your self adjusters apart, clean, and lube up with anti seize grease(and put a small dab of the grease on metal to metal contact points @ the backing plates.)

Buy a new hardware kit, and brake cylinders.

Re-assemble the brakes. Use some 30 something grit sandpaper to roughen up the drum braking surface, if you did not have the drums turned. Put your hubs on a bit, crank up the self adjusters so that the shoes are close to the drum surface, but not so much that you have to beat the hubs on. Install the hubs, and ONE axle shaft. When you are putting your hubs on, lube the seal surface with just a little bit of grease, a thin film. Slide it on, and be carefull to not bugger up the seal by shoving it on incorrectly,and disturbing the spring on the inside of the seal. Tighten the inner nut just tight enough to have just a touch of end play, just enough to barely feel it. Put on the lock ring, and tighten the outer one to the proper torque spec (that I cant remember at the moment) Adjust the shoes so that you barely hear them rub on the drum. Tilt the axle a bit (pointing down) to the side you sealed up, and make up a hose to fill thru the open upper side of the axle. Stop filling when the oil is right at the end of the inside of the spindle(not at the thread end.) Install the last shaft.

When you get it moving again, drive in reverse and stab the Ebrake a few times. This should help adjust the rear shoes more if you did not get them close enough. Take the truck for a spin and check the hubs for excessive heat. If they are hot to the touch, something isn't right, probably the shoes are over adjusted.

hdflstf · 11-10-2007, 11:13 PM

Thanks for the detailed post 'Master..". That's one more thing I'll be getting into in the next couple of weeks to make sure I'm safe and roadworthy

11-10-2007, 08:33 PM	#1
tkeduk8r Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Alexandria, MN Posts: 1,462	Any special tricks to doing drum brakes on my Dana 60??? Im doing new shoes and pads on my new (to me) 72 c20... and just wondering if there are any tricks to doing the brakes on the Dana 60... Im planning on doing not only the shoes but also a gear lube change and possibly axle seals... any suggestions??? --Mike __________________ 63 C20 2WD, 230/SM420/4.11 73K 68 C30 dump truck, 327,SM425,4.56 66K original 68 C10 2WD SWB Stepper, 250/3-tree/3.73 66K.... Wifes 68 Buick Skylark Custom Conv., 350/TH400/2.56 In our family since '79 69 GMC 1500 SWB 2WD, 350/TH350/3.73 posi... 70 K10 SWB 4X4 4-sp,ps, pb, tilt, buckets, console, sliding back window (Need AC parts) WIP 72 Chevy K20 4x4 350/350/205/4.56 donor 72 Vette 350/M21/3.70 posi, triple black and super fast 84 Olds Cutlass Brougham 350/2004r/4.11 was Dad's

11-10-2007, 09:58 PM	#2
masterbeavis Having issues Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Eldorado Ca, an hour east of sacramento Posts: 696	Re: Any special tricks to doing drum brakes on my Dana 60??? Yes. Take both drums off, only do one side at a time. Keep one side intact for reference. Axle seals are on the backside of the hub. Find yourself a brass punch, prop the hub up on some 4 X 4's, whack the inner bearing side to side till the seal comes out. Thoroughly clean the bearings and hubs, repack in grease, drive on the new seal. Take your self adjusters apart, clean, and lube up with anti seize grease(and put a small dab of the grease on metal to metal contact points @ the backing plates.) Buy a new hardware kit, and brake cylinders. Re-assemble the brakes. Use some 30 something grit sandpaper to roughen up the drum braking surface, if you did not have the drums turned. Put your hubs on a bit, crank up the self adjusters so that the shoes are close to the drum surface, but not so much that you have to beat the hubs on. Install the hubs, and ONE axle shaft. When you are putting your hubs on, lube the seal surface with just a little bit of grease, a thin film. Slide it on, and be carefull to not bugger up the seal by shoving it on incorrectly,and disturbing the spring on the inside of the seal. Tighten the inner nut just tight enough to have just a touch of end play, just enough to barely feel it. Put on the lock ring, and tighten the outer one to the proper torque spec (that I cant remember at the moment) Adjust the shoes so that you barely hear them rub on the drum. Tilt the axle a bit (pointing down) to the side you sealed up, and make up a hose to fill thru the open upper side of the axle. Stop filling when the oil is right at the end of the inside of the spindle(not at the thread end.) Install the last shaft. When you get it moving again, drive in reverse and stab the Ebrake a few times. This should help adjust the rear shoes more if you did not get them close enough. Take the truck for a spin and check the hubs for excessive heat. If they are hot to the touch, something isn't right, probably the shoes are over adjusted. __________________ Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati. The Man's Prayer: "I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess." Last edited by masterbeavis; 11-10-2007 at 10:07 PM.

11-10-2007, 11:13 PM	#3
hdflstf Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Desert Southwest Posts: 540	Re: Any special tricks to doing drum brakes on my Dana 60??? Thanks for the detailed post 'Master..". That's one more thing I'll be getting into in the next couple of weeks to make sure I'm safe and roadworthy



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