Parts starting to brake.

[Pont406]

My truck had about 91k miles when I bought it. I did a motor swap and fixed a couple other problems. I put 260 miles on it now. They were a hard miles. Taking off hard from the light, downshifting, basicly I was having fun with it. Tonight after some driving I smelled a burning rubber and I heard a whining noise, almost the same as rear end whine. I found a broken center support bearing. Prior to that I started to get a loud rattle from the back. Tailgate support broke.
I never had a vehicle with the center support bearing. If I replace it how long will a new one last? What is a good fix for that, maybe one driveshaft instead of two? Any way to fix a tailgate?
I am getting pissed with this now. All the parts were original but in working order, besides tired small block. Thanks

[dave2953]

As far as the center support bearing is concerned, if setup properly it should last quite some time. The aggressive driving probably didn't much for the life of the bearing, but a new one is relatively inexpensive and easy to replace. I've actually welded the housing back together before when I had a still had a two piece drive shaft. The spot welds on the housings are not that great and are prone to breaking. I know of several guys that have welded them back and had no problems. I'm not sure about a fix for the tailgate, but I'm sure someone will chime in soon with a response for you.

[JVictor75]

Originally Posted by Pont406

My truck had about 91k miles when I bought it. I did a motor swap and fixed a couple other problems. I put 260 miles on it now. They were a hard miles. Taking off hard from the light, downshifting, basicly I was having fun with it. Tonight after some driving I smelled a burning rubber and I heard a whining noise, almost the same as rear end whine. I found a broken center support bearing. Prior to that I started to get a loud rattle from the back. Tailgate support broke.
I never had a vehicle with the center support bearing. If I replace it how long will a new one last? What is a good fix for that, maybe one driveshaft instead of two? Any way to fix a tailgate?
I am getting pissed with this now. All the parts were original but in working order, besides tired small block. Thanks

OK, first thing dude. The fact that it had 91K on when you bought it doesn't mean a damned thing. It is still a 35+ year old vehicle.

Matter of fact "all original parts" on a 35+ year old vehicle probably shouldn't be hot-rodded without at least going thru the truck and replacing/repairing most of the rubber stuff (brake lines to the wheels/rear end, Carrier bearing, hoses, belts, etc), doing a thorough suspension check/rebuild, and at the VERY least you need to get the brakes looked at.

You said you did a motor swap. Why didn't you replace the carrier bearing and ALL the u-joints then?

That being said, Welcome!

Carrier bearings are fairly easy to replace, they have to be because if you continue to use the AutoZone/Checker/O'Reilly's variety of carrier bearing (which is what that looks like, am I right?) and continue to drive it the way you are, you are going to be looking at replacing it every six months or 5K miles. We've ALL done it at one time or another (hot rodding a basically stock "survivor" or unrestored truck) but I'm just saying that it isn't the best idea in the world. Hell it took me five years of driving a 68 LWB and hot rodding it thru high school and part of college before i figured it out.

Look into getting a one piece driveshaft built (no idea how much that'll cost you), or buy a heavy duty carrier like this one:
http://www.dicksdriveshaft.com/specials.html
(scroll all the way to the bottom of the linked page).

Your problems won't be completely solved, but your trips to the parts store should no longer include having to buy carrier bearings and u-joints with every other oil change.

As far as the tailgate, my thought would be to check the LMC catalog, ( www.lmctruck.com ), the Brothers website ( www.brothertrucks.com , they are having a pretty substantial sale until 30 November) and buy a new gate support. Either that or start checking wrecking yards for tailgates and rob one from one of them.

[71tahoe]

Originally Posted by JVictor75

...
Carrier bearings are fairly easy to replace, they have to be because if you continue to use the AutoZone/Checker/O'Reilly's variety of carrier bearing ...

Yeah, "Lifetime Guarantee" means you are guaranteed a lifetime of replacing it.

Look at some of Frizzle Fry's posts on his 69 tahoe (shortwheelbase club). If you still have the post that broke off you can weld it back to a thicker plate. I just junked 2 smiling gates about 2 months ago that had good ends but I'm sure someone has an old TG laying around that's not much good for anything else.

[truckdude239]

i replaced mine 4 times in 6 month take the driveshaft to a drive shaft shop have them replace and balance it.

[b-rad]

Carrier bearings lol they suck i had a little s10 that went thru 4 in one year your best bet is go with one long drive shaft worth the money trust me i know

[smoked68]

The cntr. supports suck. I went thru about 6 before going to a 1 piece drv. shaft. No more issues there. Every one I bought, from all the big name stores broke, even the chevy store here in town. good luck........

[Longhorn Man]

I don't recomend a one piece shaft if it is a LWB. Talk to your drive shaft shop, and they'll explain why, and when you see the price on a properly built one, you'll probably chainge your mind.
you can put power to a 2 piece shaft... semis have more than 2. I knew a guy with a 2 piece shaft that was running 12's on his daily driver C/10 (it was his ONLY vehicle) and he never had an issue.
Get a good carrier bearing, no parts store crap, go to a drive shaf tshop, have them press it on properly... no hammers. A steel tube that spins 2500 - 3500 RPM at normal freeway speed should NOT be smacked with a hammer. Have them install new U-joints and ballance it. Properly done, it'll last another 35 years.

[smoked68]

My bad, did not realize it was a long bed, mine is a short bed with the 2 pce. But thats my story all the same.......

[CG]

I think to have a long one piece work well without oscillating its going to have to be a heck of a big tube size. There are aftermarket carrier bearings that are near bullet proof. I think I saw one down at PICKMUP's place.

[Longhorn Man]

CG is right. To make them long and not whip at speed, they need to be huge in diameter. Even then, I would still hesitate at having a shop make one. if you could find an OEM one, and make it fit, then I'd say go for it. But the fact of the matter is, most shops that would make them, shouldn't. And, there is nothing wrong with a 2 piece shaft that is done properly. They've done it for ever, and still do it today.

[Pont406]

Thanks for the ideas. At least I am not alone with bad carrier bearing. Anyway, I had nothing to do so I pulled the driveshaft out and replaced the bearing. If it will brake again I will consider a heavy duty one. Bearing wasn't hard to change at all. I took some pics for you guys.
Ohh, and the reason why I didn't change bearing while swapping motors? It's kinda the same as when you are doing a brake inspection and brake pads at 50% whould you replace them?
Thanks

[Longhorn Man]

Very nice to see someone doing it properly. I see idiots use heat and hammers and bigger hammers and so on... it gets ugly.

[WorkinLonghorn]

I got my '69 10 years ago and use it for hauling massive loads,pulling stumps etc. My center bearing has never been a problem at all. Just get it all balanced.