Painless Wiring Harness Question

[77GMCTruck]

I'm wanting to change out the old tired wiring system in my truck. I was wondering which of the following would be best suited for it. It is a 77 GMC Sierra Classic with cruise control and manual windows and locks. I would prefer not to have to pay the $550 for the universal harness if one of the 18 circuit harnesses will work. Obviously I need the one with A/C, especially here in the south.

Here's the link from Summit Racing comparing 3 of the harnesses:

http://store.summitracing.com/compar...=KeywordSearch

As always your help is greatly appreciated.

Just found out the link does not work...

Here they are separately:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Or

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Sorry didn't check the link after posting.

[bigblock73]

Get the one for a 73-87...DEFINATELY worth it!! I have one in my '73, one of the best upgrades I ever did, and was very easy to install.

I do not think you'll be happy with a universal. For starters, it won't fit in your factory firewall hole like the 73-87 kit does, and it won't have 73-87 specific instructions to go by.

[77GMCTruck]

So the preverbial you get what you pay for. Thanks very much BigBlock73. Anything that will make it easier will definitely be worth it when it comes to the wiring. (I hear it's one of the most tedious things to do.)

[1984 swb chevy]

I have used both Painless and Ron Francis Wire Works. I like the Ron Francis one better. You should look them up and see what they offer.

[bigblock73]

Originally Posted by 77GMCTruck

So the preverbial you get what you pay for.

Absolutely. Trust me, you'll be happy with it if you get it. Contact Chris (Captkaos), he sells these I believe and has great prices...and service.

[LBJ]

You can make your own harness with little trouble and cost. I made this one for a 74 VW Thing before it got rear ended and pretty well shut the whole job down. This was going to be for a radio setup. It is plastic coated, stranded, "pull" wire as would be used in steel conduits, from Home Depot. I use 14 and 10 ga wires. I also went with just one color but you can use all the colors you like. You just have to buy more wire though. Use the peel off numbers in the electrical section that electricians use to mark wires on the job. Get some REAL heat shrink tubing, not the cheap PVC stuff from Radio Shack. Take the plastic connector insulators off the lugs and crimp without them. You get a better job and then cover with heat shrink. Lokks absolutely professional and is bulletproof, even water proof if you do the heat shrink good enough. this is the same wire that Painless uses. It is everything proof and temp proof to 120 degrees C I think (been a while since I thought about that one). You may have to buy a fuse block to start with and build off that.