Another Z'd frame question.

[shortbed70]

Does anyone have a writeup on how to do this on a 65 model fram and still have all the factory mnts for rad fenders etc. I want to do this to my truck while I'm in the process of 5 lug swap. Pics are nice too. Does efabman have any of this on his vedeo?

[ZBS 64]

The better way to go is a porterbuilt dropmember

[L0WRIDE]

i z'd my 65 but if i had the money i would buy a drop member from porterbuilt

[mullit]

price seams to be the only issue with the drop member

[shortbed70]

How much $?

[Mkcustums]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

How much $?

Last I heard it was $1,200


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201898

"It is made to bolt into 63-87 Chevrolet Trucks, 2wd and those who are tired of their 4wd sitting too high. It uses a rack and pinion, designed to be used with tubular arms (Air Ride Tech.) but can be used with stock arms (slight modification to lower arm is needed), it allows the frame to set on the ground with a drop spindle and a 29 inch tall tire. Porterbuilt Street Rods is the manufacturer and they sell for a whopping $1200."

[WELD4DAYS]

I'm thinking of "Zing" my 77 and was wondering if you can do this with the motor still in the truck? I can't afford a dropmember so I need to go this route.Thanks

[revn67]

i dont think id try it with the motor still in it....i would imagine it would be alittle more difficult to measure and keep the frame straight and level with the motor in the way...just my 2 cents though, and i believe the 1200 for the dropmember is just for the crossmember and a few little thing...you'll still need a steering rack, all the airbag needs, i think its around like 2500 all together to get your truck rolling

[WELD4DAYS]

Thanks for the reply.I think it would be better to pull the motor anyway so the inside of the frame can be boxed in.I have a 454 with Hooker headers,they hang kind of low.I would like to keep them.I think if I did something around a 4 inch Z,it might move the headers up enough so I don't rip them off when the frame is on the ground.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by WELD4DAYS

I think if I did something around a 4 inch Z,it might move the headers up enough so I don't rip them off when the frame is on the ground.

at 4" where's the top of your 454 going to be?

[WELD4DAYS]

That's a good question.I haven't looked that far ahead.What seems to be the best amount to "z" these trucks?I was thinking of doing the z thing, then trimming the frame where it hangs down under the cab.Thanks for the help.

[Slmd92DIME]

While trimming the botttom of the frame make sure you either box the frame or put box tubing in the top corner and weld it up.... just a thought

[Slmd92DIME]

Instead of doing that.... you can lower your cab mounts an inch... That will be darn close to laying rockers.... Just another thought

[mullit]

Originally Posted by Mkcustums

Last I heard it was $1,200


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201898

"It is made to bolt into 63-87 Chevrolet Trucks, 2wd and those who are tired of their 4wd sitting too high. It uses a rack and pinion, designed to be used with tubular arms (Air Ride Tech.) but can be used with stock arms (slight modification to lower arm is needed), it allows the frame to set on the ground with a drop spindle and a 29 inch tall tire. Porterbuilt Street Rods is the manufacturer and they sell for a whopping $1200."

Try $1400 just for the member $300 for a rack, $300 for the stearing linkage, $40 for the stearing linkage support bearing plus shipping. Now throw in you air suspension parts and drop spindles. and you still have to cut the frame for tirerod notches.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by mullit

Try $1400 just for the member $300 for a rack, $300 for the stearing linkage, $40 for the stearing linkage support bearing plus shipping. Now throw in you air suspension parts and drop spindles. and you still have to cut the frame for tirerod notches.

Doing it "right" isn't always cheap. There's a very big difference between 'seat of the pants' and engineered products... and that engineering costs. While I'm not opposed to the time-tested z-method, it's not necessary given today's engineered products-- spindles, control arms, notched xmembers (or PB's Dropmember), etc.

[shortbed70]

Too much for me.

[mullit]

Originally Posted by shortbed70

Too much for me.

yeah me too

[WELD4DAYS]

So if I cut the frame under the cab,and lower the body mount's an inch,do I still need to "z" it ?Thanks for the help.

[Slmd92DIME]

yes it will still need a Z. The Z is what raises the front crossmember above the frame rails. the droppin of the cab mounts is what will get your rockers as low as the frame. You dont have to cut the frame under the cab.. Just lower the body mounts, cut the rivets out.. and move your holes down and inch and weld your old holes up.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by WELD4DAYS

So if I cut the frame under the cab,and lower the body mount's an inch,do I still need to "z" it ?Thanks for the help.

AFTER you "Z" it and the frame lays on the ground your pinch weld will still be about an inch off the ground. There are a couple ways to remedy this:

First way is to lower the body mounts by one inch. If you do this you will need to tunnel more of the cab floor for motor/trans/driveshaft clearance. Keep in mind your motor is going to be WAY high.

Second way is to shave an inch off the bottom of the frame-rails and then box it in for strength. If you do this, make sure you compensate for that extra inch when you do the "Z".

Both ways are a lot of work. If you aren't an experienced/capable weldor I wouldn't even attempt it.

[WELD4DAYS]

That's great help.I'm fine with the welding and fabricating part.If I lower the cab mounts 1 inch.How much of a Z should I do ? Do you think it would be easier to lower the cab mounts or shave the bottom of the frame an inch ? One more question.However much I Z the front,do I need to raise the tranny crossmember the same amount to keep the angles the same ? Plus if I cut the bottom of the frame off,My tanks are hanging low.Thanks for the help.I'm learning alot.

[BACKYARD88]

Originally Posted by XXL

Doing it "right" isn't always cheap. There's a very big difference between 'seat of the pants' and engineered products... and that engineering costs. While I'm not opposed to the time-tested z-method, it's not necessary given today's engineered products-- spindles, control arms, notched xmembers (or PB's Dropmember), etc.

I absolutely agree with XXL on this one. I went the Z route with my truck but you get a MUCH better outcome with engineered products. In no way shape or form will you be able to duplicate the geometry improvements built into the Porterbuilt unit with factory parts and frame chopping. I just wanted a super low daily driver, if I was going for any kind of performance I'd go Porterbuilt all the way.

[WELD4DAYS]

I agree.The Porterbuilt piece is awesome.It's more of a cash issue with me.Plus I love to build things and fabricate stuff.I think the "Z" thing is a pretty good proven method.If I had the money, I would have a dropmember for sure.I have to go the "Z" route, so I hope you guys don't mind helping me with it.I hope to start some progress pics soon.Thanks

[Slmd92DIME]

If you lower the cab mounts an inch and you have a 4 inch Z at the firewall, you would want to lower your front frame horns 5 inches to accomidate for your dropped cab mounts. The fender and cab need to be on the same level...

I dropped my cab mounts, its easy.

I also made a new tranny crossmember to accomidate for the Z and also to get it above the frame rails. Pictures are in my build thread

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=269019

[WELD4DAYS]

Nice job Dime.I'm trying to figure out how much of a Z I need to do to get the controls arms off the ground.I want to run 22's.I'm not sure if I want to lower the mounts or trim the bottom of the frame.If I lower the mounts,then I need to lower the bed an inch also right?Thanks for the help