How to design Watts Link - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**MacSic66** · 12-03-2007, 07:04 PM

Hi! Im planning on building a watts link for the back of my truck.. Just curious if anyone has built one, or knows of a formula to determine how long the links/center bar need to be to accomidate a certain amount of lift? any help is greatly appreciated!!-Mark
zmtgoat@hotmail.com

ClassicAutoResto · 12-03-2007, 07:36 PM

Check with John, aka ChiefRocka or Kevin, aka Rokcrln. They have been building/designing a killer 14 bolt. Thread is at the bottom of the front page. Good Luck - Jerry

**Captainfab** · 12-03-2007, 11:49 PM

I can't help with the watts link, but I just had to say nice job on the fab work you've done.

Got any more pics?

**ChiefRocka** · 12-04-2007, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClassicAutoResto

Check with John, aka ChiefRocka or Kevin, aka Rokcrln. They have been building/designing a killer 14 bolt. Thread is at the bottom of the front page. Good Luck - Jerry

Yea, I am currently working on the 14bolt.

There is no set formula for the Watts....

The pivot has to be in the DIRECT center of the axle...Normally I use a pivot that is on 6" centers.

With the rear-end centered and set at ride-height (bags at half their travel) and the center pivot vertical , measeure and fab up your links from there...equal length to your chassis.

Looks like the lower link bar mount will be easy off the rear frame rail that looks almost vertical.

Cool bag mounts !!

Good job...

**MacSic66** · 12-04-2007, 11:49 AM

Cool!! I plan on having about a 4" ride height and i setup the back rails behind the axle for the watts mount.. Thanks!! your input is greatly appreciated!!
-Mark

http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m37/McIvermark/66/

http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m...ermark/66/cab/

http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m.../engine%20bay/

http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m...%20suspesnion/

http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m...%20suspension/

**MacSic66** · 12-04-2007, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I can't help with the watts link, but I just had to say nice job on the fab work you've done.

Got any more pics?

Thanks!! its coming along pretty good!!
I put the links at the bottom of the next reply!! -Mark

PrerunnerRob · 12-04-2007, 12:49 PM

Sweet! I set my truck for the same ride height, it looks good, still has pleanty of travel, and can lay all the way out.

PrerunnerRob · 12-04-2007, 05:56 PM

What size tires are you running up front?

**MacSic66** · 12-04-2007, 06:06 PM

hey.. i plan on running a 28-29" tall front tire.. what are you running on yours?

Rokcrln · 12-04-2007, 07:53 PM

Dino were did you go? He is doing a wats link because he is running stock style trailing arms that have been relocated for a sever drop. Dino check out his Photo links. He did a very nice job.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Rokcrln · 12-04-2007, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MacSic66

hey.. i plan on running a 28-29" tall front tire.. what are you running on yours?

I am planning on a 27-28 up front and a 29-30 out back. The rear should set just under the bed lip when aired out

I like how clean your front tubs turned out. Nice job!

Kevin
LFD inc.

**MacSic66** · 12-04-2007, 08:43 PM

thanks!.. the front tubs clear a 29" tall tire, the firewall tubbing will allow for really low minimal turning, the back is setup for a 30" tall tire, ive got to get work done on the burban!! then on to the watts and bedfloor, rear tubs, finish the gastank, get a tailgate exc.. then off to the blasters, reassemble, swing hood, bearclaw latch the hood, swing doors, bearclaw the doors, rust repair, door handles... the list goes on and on...!!!!
-Mark
thanks for the positive feedback guys!!!!!

Rokcrln · 12-04-2007, 09:17 PM

Well at least you have started yours and have a plan. Right now my plan is to finish everyone elses projects then rol mine out of the storage side of the shop and start it

It will be a month or two before it gets touched but I am planning out the full build and starting to collect the needed parts so I will be ready when that day comes.
I am planning on the bear claws as well for doors and the tail gate. Have not thought about the hood but it would be nice having it just "CLICK" like every thing else.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

**MacSic66** · 12-04-2007, 09:23 PM

yeh the hood latch should be cool! click.. i plann on hooking it up to a pull cable inside the cab, probably use a bicycle brake cable, then gas shocks to lift it,the stock hood springs are long gone..
-Mark

L0WRIDE · 12-04-2007, 10:14 PM

you got some nice work there dude

Rokcrln · 12-04-2007, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MacSic66

yeh the hood latch should be cool! click.. i plann on hooking it up to a pull cable inside the cab, probably use a bicycle brake cable, then gas shocks to lift it,the stock hood springs are long gone..
-Mark

The set up that Nate (PorterBuilt) did on Dino's is super clean! Calling Dino! Pic time!!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

**MacSic66** · 12-04-2007, 10:53 PM

thanks!! ur truck is coming along good!!! sweeet!!! same idea on the inner fenders!!

thekid54 · 12-05-2007, 01:22 PM

MacSic66, your truck is looking good. I like the rear setup. What are those hood hinges from?

Iron-Butt · 12-05-2007, 02:06 PM

Nice work,

**MacSic66** · 12-05-2007, 05:25 PM

the hood hinges are off of a 58' chevy truck, 57' and earlier would work too, the 58 has the extra support tab on it..

Super73 · 12-06-2007, 03:40 PM

Looks good..

98 LS1..

Word of advice before you do the exhaust. Toss those manifolds and pick up a set of Edelbrocks 1 3/4" stepped 1 7/8 long tube headers with high velocity merge collectors for the 98-02 F-bodies. Here they are on summit and not all that much http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Here is what they look like in my 63 truck with a summit 3" x-pipe. With the heads cam package through a 4L80E it makes 428rwhp.

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/engine_bay_02.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/engine_bay_03.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_01.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_02.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_03.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_04.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_05.jpg

This is what I did for motor mounts. There is a poly bushin the there..

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/motor_moun...or_mount_2.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/motor_moun...otor_mount.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/motor_moun...t_of_motor.jpg

One other thing. I am running a truck pan on mine and planing on switching over to an F-body pan as it won't hang down as low. Looks like you have a F-bod motor so your probably ok.

**MacSic66** · 12-06-2007, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super73

Looks good..

98 LS1..

Word of advice before you do the exhaust. Toss those manifolds and pick up a set of Edelbrocks 1 3/4" stepped 1 7/8 long tube headers with high velocity merge collectors for the 98-02 F-bodies. Here they are on summit and not all that much http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Here is what they look like in my 63 truck with a summit 3" x-pipe. With the heads cam package through a 4L80E it makes 428rwhp.

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/engine_bay_02.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/engine_bay_03.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_01.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_02.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_03.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_04.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_05.jpg

This is what I did for motor mounts. There is a poly bushin the there..

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/motor_moun...or_mount_2.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/motor_moun...otor_mount.jpg

http://73-ls1.com/63truck/motor_moun...t_of_motor.jpg

One other thing. I am running a truck pan on mine and planing on switching over to an F-body pan as it won't hang down as low. Looks like you have a F-bod motor so your probably ok.

Looks good!!!! Its a camaro pan, i raised the engine with the crossmember so its got about 3" of clearance to the ground, its got a th400 in it now and when i have the $$ ill go with a gearvendors unit, Im going stock on the Ls1 for now just to get it running..
what wiring harness are you going with?
i scored a pair of pacesetter headers, direct replacement for the camaros for cheap on e-bay, i have to run shorties on it.. i plan on doing a 2 1/2" exhaust with an x pipe..

i went with these motor mounts
http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc..._id/86960/2350

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...y/IMG_1039.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...y/IMG_1038.jpg

**MacSic66** · 12-06-2007, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironbutt_lcmc

Nice work,

thanks

PrerunnerRob · 12-06-2007, 11:08 PM

I've been laggin", a 28" tall tire.

Super73 · 12-07-2007, 01:27 AM

If your going with shorties, you might want to try C5 Z06 manifolds. They flow better than any shorty out there do to the Try-Y set up. They can be had for about $100.

I would advise going 3" X-pipe from the get go. I've been tuning LS1's since 2001 and can tell you I have never seen a reduction in power on them going with bigger exhuast. My exhaust is extreamly free flowing, but when I uncorke the warlock mufflers I still pick up 7rwhp and 10-15 ftlbs of TQ down bottom.

I am running a factory F-body PCM and harness. I am also running a 4L80E which I would do over a 400/GV unit. There are a couple small things you need to do like swap a couple wires around at the trans connector and have HPtuners load the trans controllers on the PCM. They charge $50 for that. But doing that allows you to run a lock up conveter and set all your shift points extreamly easily.

12-03-2007, 07:04 PM	#1
MacSic66 Active Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Boise Idaho Posts: 114	How to design Watts Link Hi! Im planning on building a watts link for the back of my truck.. Just curious if anyone has built one, or knows of a formula to determine how long the links/center bar need to be to accomidate a certain amount of lift? any help is greatly appreciated!!-Mark zmtgoat@hotmail.com

12-03-2007, 07:36 PM	#2
ClassicAutoResto Rust Buster Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Lebanon, Ky Posts: 558	Re: How to design Watts Link Check with John, aka ChiefRocka or Kevin, aka Rokcrln. They have been building/designing a killer 14 bolt. Thread is at the bottom of the front page. Good Luck - Jerry

12-03-2007, 11:49 PM	#3
Captainfab 60-66 Nut Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho Posts: 23,252	Re: How to design Watts Link I can't help with the watts link, but I just had to say nice job on the fab work you've done. Got any more pics? __________________ Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE Last edited by Captainfab; 12-03-2007 at 11:49 PM.

12-04-2007, 11:49 AM	#5
MacSic66 Active Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Boise Idaho Posts: 114	Re: How to design Watts Link Cool!! I plan on having about a 4" ride height and i setup the back rails behind the axle for the watts mount.. Thanks!! your input is greatly appreciated!! -Mark http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m37/McIvermark/66/ http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m...ermark/66/cab/ http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m.../engine%20bay/ http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m...%20suspesnion/ http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m...%20suspension/ Last edited by MacSic66; 12-04-2007 at 11:51 AM.

12-04-2007, 12:49 PM	#7
PrerunnerRob Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose Posts: 847	Re: How to design Watts Link Sweet! I set my truck for the same ride height, it looks good, still has pleanty of travel, and can lay all the way out.

12-04-2007, 05:56 PM	#8
PrerunnerRob Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose Posts: 847	Re: How to design Watts Link What size tires are you running up front?

12-04-2007, 06:06 PM	#9
MacSic66 Active Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Boise Idaho Posts: 114	Re: How to design Watts Link hey.. i plan on running a 28-29" tall front tire.. what are you running on yours? __________________ No vehicle is "too nice" or "too straight" to cut up.

12-04-2007, 07:53 PM	#10
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: How to design Watts Link Dino were did you go? He is doing a wats link because he is running stock style trailing arms that have been relocated for a sever drop. Dino check out his Photo links. He did a very nice job. Kevin LFD Inc. Last edited by Rokcrln; 12-04-2007 at 07:53 PM.

12-04-2007, 08:43 PM	#12
MacSic66 Active Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Boise Idaho Posts: 114	Re: How to design Watts Link thanks!.. the front tubs clear a 29" tall tire, the firewall tubbing will allow for really low minimal turning, the back is setup for a 30" tall tire, ive got to get work done on the burban!! then on to the watts and bedfloor, rear tubs, finish the gastank, get a tailgate exc.. then off to the blasters, reassemble, swing hood, bearclaw latch the hood, swing doors, bearclaw the doors, rust repair, door handles... the list goes on and on...!!!! -Mark thanks for the positive feedback guys!!!!! __________________ No vehicle is "too nice" or "too straight" to cut up.

12-04-2007, 09:17 PM	#13
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: How to design Watts Link Well at least you have started yours and have a plan. Right now my plan is to finish everyone elses projects then rol mine out of the storage side of the shop and start it It will be a month or two before it gets touched but I am planning out the full build and starting to collect the needed parts so I will be ready when that day comes. I am planning on the bear claws as well for doors and the tail gate. Have not thought about the hood but it would be nice having it just "CLICK" like every thing else. Kevin LFD Inc.

12-04-2007, 09:23 PM	#14
MacSic66 Active Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Boise Idaho Posts: 114	Re: How to design Watts Link yeh the hood latch should be cool! click.. i plann on hooking it up to a pull cable inside the cab, probably use a bicycle brake cable, then gas shocks to lift it,the stock hood springs are long gone.. -Mark __________________ No vehicle is "too nice" or "too straight" to cut up.

12-04-2007, 10:14 PM	#15
L0WRIDE Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND Posts: 2,166	Re: How to design Watts Link you got some nice work there dude __________________ 49 CHEVROLET 1/2 TON, 52 CHEVROLET SEDAN 62 HARDTOP NOVA 65 CHEVROLET BB LWB FLEETSIDE 90 CHEVROLET EXTRA CAB CHEVY ONLY - NZ Chapter http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=137984

12-04-2007, 10:53 PM	#17
MacSic66 Active Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Boise Idaho Posts: 114	Re: How to design Watts Link thanks!! ur truck is coming along good!!! sweeet!!! same idea on the inner fenders!! __________________ No vehicle is "too nice" or "too straight" to cut up.

12-05-2007, 01:22 PM	#18
thekid54 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: LA, CA Posts: 296	Re: How to design Watts Link MacSic66, your truck is looking good. I like the rear setup. What are those hood hinges from?

12-05-2007, 02:06 PM	#19
Iron-Butt 454 club Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 1,348	Re: How to design Watts Link Nice work, __________________ David 1965 Chevrolet c-10 454 automatic Custom bbw swb. 1965 Chevrolet C-10 swb (Sold) 1963 Chevrolet C-10 6 Cyl automatic with dual exhaust, pb, ps and 17's. R.I.P "I will miss you. 1967 Chevrolet C-10 6 Cyl Custom lwb 1939 Chevrolet Coupe, 350 v8 automatic. 1935 Chevrolet 2 Dr Standard in the works. 2015 Harley Davidson Street Glide. 2023 Chevrolet Stingray Z51 Convertible. I never want to grow up.



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12-05-2007, 05:25 PM	#20
MacSic66 Active Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Boise Idaho Posts: 114	Re: How to design Watts Link the hood hinges are off of a 58' chevy truck, 57' and earlier would work too, the 58 has the extra support tab on it.. __________________ No vehicle is "too nice" or "too straight" to cut up.

12-06-2007, 03:40 PM	#21
Super73 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Bay Area, Ca Posts: 2,841	Re: How to design Watts Link Looks good.. 98 LS1.. Word of advice before you do the exhaust. Toss those manifolds and pick up a set of Edelbrocks 1 3/4" stepped 1 7/8 long tube headers with high velocity merge collectors for the 98-02 F-bodies. Here they are on summit and not all that much http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku Here is what they look like in my 63 truck with a summit 3" x-pipe. With the heads cam package through a 4L80E it makes 428rwhp. http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/engine_bay_02.jpg http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/engine_bay_03.jpg http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_01.jpg http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_02.jpg http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_03.jpg http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_04.jpg http://73-ls1.com/63truck/1-18-06/exhaust_05.jpg This is what I did for motor mounts. There is a poly bushin the there.. http://73-ls1.com/63truck/motor_moun...or_mount_2.jpg http://73-ls1.com/63truck/motor_moun...otor_mount.jpg http://73-ls1.com/63truck/motor_moun...t_of_motor.jpg One other thing. I am running a truck pan on mine and planing on switching over to an F-body pan as it won't hang down as low. Looks like you have a F-bod motor so your probably ok. Last edited by Super73; 12-06-2007 at 03:52 PM.

12-06-2007, 11:08 PM	#24
PrerunnerRob Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose Posts: 847	Re: How to design Watts Link I've been laggin", a 28" tall tire.

12-07-2007, 01:27 AM	#25
Super73 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Bay Area, Ca Posts: 2,841	Re: How to design Watts Link If your going with shorties, you might want to try C5 Z06 manifolds. They flow better than any shorty out there do to the Try-Y set up. They can be had for about $100. I would advise going 3" X-pipe from the get go. I've been tuning LS1's since 2001 and can tell you I have never seen a reduction in power on them going with bigger exhuast. My exhaust is extreamly free flowing, but when I uncorke the warlock mufflers I still pick up 7rwhp and 10-15 ftlbs of TQ down bottom. I am running a factory F-body PCM and harness. I am also running a 4L80E which I would do over a 400/GV unit. There are a couple small things you need to do like swap a couple wires around at the trans connector and have HPtuners load the trans controllers on the PCM. They charge $50 for that. But doing that allows you to run a lock up conveter and set all your shift points extreamly easily. Last edited by Super73; 12-07-2007 at 01:31 AM.

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