powdercoating

[geoman]

Guys,

I have a powdercoating side business and was wondering if there was enough interest in getting a bunch of small stuff done? I wont have the capabilites to do real large items (i.e. frames, core support, etc.) until I get into a new shop which will be at the beginning of the upcoming year. MY prices are reasonable and I am pretty quick to turn things around. I also have references on other boards.

I will not quote prices are respond to requests at this time due to the board rules. I was planning to become a supporter but was thinking of going ahead and becoming a vendor if I could help you guys out and there was enough interest. I will be sending Josh the money this week but wanted to know which direction to take.

Thanks for the input!
Mike

[streetstar]

powdercoating is addictive -- once you start, you cant stop

[geoman]

yes it is...LOL I plan on coating a bunch of my 67 parts when I am ready to start restoring it.

[Luvlegs]

Question and idea :
Q - is the "anodizing" process similiar/the same as powder coating? I think I am referring to the correct process (colors like purple carbs and such)...
Idea - buy parts that others would want coated and eliminate the cost of shipping to you and then back out again. Might not work for everyone but $15 shipping a $20 part two ways could get to be an issue. Along those same lines, take "core" parts - once in, you ship out - knocks off 2 or 3 days turn around... Good Luck!

[lts70]

If I was closer to you I would be very interested. I was thinking of doing a set of headers soon. But I will probably try to find some one here in Utah to avoid the shipping.

As I shop around what would you guys advise as a good price range so I don't get took. This will be my first powdercoating adventure, I hope I don't get too hooked on it.

[Ackattack]

I do my own powder coating at home.

[El Bombero]

Ok, now I have a couple questions; Is the powdercoat going to be ok on a part subject to high heat? Like Headers or brake parts? I would love to have my brakes done. Well to tell you the truth, I would love to have the whole truck done! Here is an article I found about powdercoating, its a good look into the basics of it. Have a good one fellas!

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/b...ics/index.html

[geoman]

Luvlegs...there are some anodized colors for p/c but I do not believe it is the same process. I will keep your idea in mind on the shipping. I know that can be a big factor sometimes. Alot of my orders are multiple items and that saves alot for the customer and I tend to give them a discount as well...Thanks!

Ackattack...its alot of fun isnt it?

As far as headers, I have never done a set. There is a high heat coating but I have not heard of the results as of yet. I would just get the jet hot coating put on. Other engine parts are no problem. I put the high temp coatings on intakes, etc.

As far as brakes, many people get the calipers done as long as there are no seals or rubber parts in them. Spindles and brackets are not prone to the high heat.

The regular coating is good to about 275F after curing, high temp I believe is over 1000F. I will have to check my documents again.

I mainly do items like suspension pieces, engine brackets, intakes, smaller body brackets, steel wheels, trim, etc.

Once I get my larger ovens built, I should be able to do frames, rear axle housings, frames/subframes.

Thanks for the article El Bombero!!! Good article there!

Thanks for the inquires and the questions! Let me know if you have more and if anyone is interested.

Thanks!
Mike

[bestchevyfan]

I Say Go For It. Later,buddy

[Orange]

You are going about this the right way it seems. Good job.

As for my input, I think you are going to face a problem that many businesses like yourself face. This is a service that everyone wants as cheap as possible - because they are not getting a part - they are just getting a coating on a part they already own.

With that said - in order for you to get a start, you will have to keep your profit margin very low I think. Get a good reputation and a good size customer base - then slowly increase your profits. If you start off trying to make the big bucks, people are just going to find an alternative for their parts.

Then of course - their is a limit as to how much you can charge. Even a well reputed p/c shop in the area will not be able to charge $100 for a single alternator bracket. At least not for me. But that same shop would get my business if their price is only "decent" and they have lots of buzz about doing good work.

Just a few thoughts - you can keep the pennies - cause it probably ain't worth much.

ALSO GUYS - Help him keep this thread going in the direction he wants - don't ask for prices and such - because then it gets against forum rules.

DLB

[geoman]

Thanks for the all the support and kind words guys! I do really appreciate it and please keep coming with the comments and ideas. It will help fine tune everything. I have been doing it fro about 6-7 months now.

Orange - Thanks for helping me keep this going. Yes, I will not answer prices and such until I get everything squared away with admin on becoming a vendor.

My profit margin and overhead is very low. Its just my wife and I and we work out of our tiny shop right now. I will expand my equipment when things pick up and there is a need for larger more complicated items. I do not have awebsite as of yet, but I communicate well via phone and email and give regular updates to the customer as things progress on their parts. So far, not one compliant!!! Woot woot!!

Like stated before, one of the big things is shipping charges. For those that are not local, I try and get the best quotes and will sometimes help out on those charges and still make a small profit for the work I put into them. I am a geologist for my local government by trade. That is what pays the bills for me and this helps out and I enjoy it tremendously.

Alot of guys are getting their stuff coated nowadays so I would figure to help you out and support me as well.

Like I said, keep questions and comments coming. I will be happy to answer all. I am here to help fellow truck and car enthusiasts abroad. Now if I can just get my 67 C-10 running...doh!

Note: I am a longtime member and vendor on montecarloss.com (MV85SS) and nastyz28.com (geoman)...My other two hangouts You are more than welcome to investigate and check me out for references and my quality of work.

Jon over at Tri-Pro Automotive in on the monte site as well.

Thanks again!
Mike

[Yeller68]

I might be interested in powdercoating my steel wheels, if it would be econimically feasible with shipping and all. I've tried to look around for some local shops that do it, but most of them only seem to be interested in large jobs. Pardon my stupidity, but would powdercoating be good for wheels? I'm looking for something durable, that won't chip from hubcaps, wheel weights, and tire machines.

[rophle1]

I say go for it; if you already have the equipment, then what do you have to loose.

I'd certainly consider using your services as long as your prices (including shipping) is comparable or less expensive than what I could get it done for locally.

Ronnie

[geoman]

Originally Posted by Yeller68

I might be interested in powdercoating my steel wheels, if it would be econimically feasible with shipping and all. I've tried to look around for some local shops that do it, but most of them only seem to be interested in large jobs. Pardon my stupidity, but would powdercoating be good for wheels? I'm looking for something durable, that won't chip from hubcaps, wheel weights, and tire machines.

Yeller68- Powdercoating is much more durable then regular paint. It is not completely chip reistant but I was done some wheels without any problems that I have heard. You would just need to tell your tire guy to be very careful when handling them and not throw the wheels and tires all over the place...

Sounds good Ronnie!!!

Thanks
Mike

[webfoot]

I have very limited knowledge about powdercoating but I have a question - don't you have to bake that stuff on at 400-450 degrees? Wouldn't that mean that once it is cured it would be good for well over 275 degrees?

[geoman]

Correct....most pars are baked at around 400F for about 20 minutes once the temperature of the metal has reached this pont. The powder starts to flow and cure at about 260-275F so it can withstand those temps.

There is a high-temp coating that is a little more and it is good to well over 1000F!!!