Bridge Kits

[joehalford01]

Hey guys,

I picked my steel to do the front z and I'm getting ready to start ordering all my parts. I'm undecided on how I want to do the rear section. I want it lay out so I'm going to need a 10" step notch. The basic bridge kit from suicide doors is $160 and would give me the notch plus all my brackets for the rear bags and it looks like a nice package overall. This is where i'm unsure though, does a bridge kit need to be used with a four-link or can i use it with the stock trailing arms? The web-site dosn't say but in all my browsing it looks like that is the intention, i don't see any difference between this versus the under bed kit from kplinks as far as it all works. This leads to another question i have. I've been looking at the kplinks step notch (this truck is a 63 by the way) and from what i can tell everyone seems to love it. I've also heard people talk about beating a regular kit into submission. I'm curious though, does it matter if the last foot or two of the frame is not tapered in? Structurally speaking am I missing something here? I don't see anything connected to it and I don't see how it would affect the tire clearance either. I've been busy though so I havn't really had a chance to study it yet. Thoughts? Could i just make the frame rails straight after the notch? thanks guys.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by joehalford01

Hey guys,

I picked my steel to do the front z and I'm getting ready to start ordering all my parts. I'm undecided on how I want to do the rear section. I want it lay out so I'm going to need a 10" step notch.

Lots of questions in one post...

For the first part, if you're going to stick with the stock trailing arms, they're going to hit the frame before you're on the ground. They hit a little behind the cab when you go ultra-low. As for a "bridge kit..." that's really just a notch and some crossmember supports that run between the notches. This is sometimes where people mount the bags. Again, ASSuming you're going with the stock trailing arms, the stock spring location is a pretty decent choice for most bag mounting unless you want more lift ratio or there's some other pressing desire for you to move them elsewhere.

Much of what you're asking about is very well discussed in this forum. Take a look at some of the bigger threads here as they might just have what you're looking for.

[joehalford01]

i know what you mean about the stock trailing arms, i've read and read and read and I figure i won't really know how i want to approach it until i do my notch and bag and see where it hits in person. I just wanted to make sure the bridge kit would work and you confirmed my thoughts that it's pretty much a c-notch with a crossmember. I've also done a lot of reading on the kp-links curved notch but I havn't seen anybody address why the taper is so necessary in the frame. It seems like it would easier to use then a standard notch and re-doing that section of frame with straight 2x4 steel but thats it. The savings wouldn't be small either as you are looking at 170 for the notch and 90 for the bag brackets when the basic bridge kit is 160 for everything, I figure 40 for the 2x4 (at the most) and it looks like you save about 60 bucks. Not a lot but it adds up over the course of the project (60 would cover the air tank). I'm pinching pennies here so I'm trying to figure out if the kp notch does anything other then save time on re-working the last few feet of the frame. Thanks for the help so far dude; this is an awesome board.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by joehalford01

i know what you mean about the stock trailing arms, i've read and read and read and I figure i won't really know how i want to approach it until i do my notch and bag and see where it hits in person. I just wanted to make sure the bridge kit would work and you confirmed my thoughts that it's pretty much a c-notch with a crossmember. I've also done a lot of reading on the kp-links curved notch but I havn't seen anybody address why the taper is so necessary in the frame. It seems like it would easier to use then a standard notch and re-doing that section of frame with straight 2x4 steel but thats it. The savings wouldn't be small either as you are looking at 170 for the notch and 90 for the bag brackets when the basic bridge kit is 160 for everything, I figure 40 for the 2x4 (at the most) and it looks like you save about 60 bucks. Not a lot but it adds up over the course of the project (60 would cover the air tank). I'm pinching pennies here so I'm trying to figure out if the kp notch does anything other then save time on re-working the last few feet of the frame. Thanks for the help so far dude; this is an awesome board.

How much time are you willing to spend to "save $60"? I am guessing a KP notch will save you a whole weekend. It's a nice notch, and like you said earlier, everybody I know who has installed one has been satisfied. It's your call... $60 or a weekend!

[smashingchuck]

here's my $.02

get the notch from KP. You'll be glad you did. And unless you want to spend hours making the lousy stock trailing arms "work", get a four link from a respectable company, or build your own. It's the best and easiest way to get it on the ground - just like you want

[XXL]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

It's your call... $60 or a weekend!

That doesn't even factor in fabbing all new rear accoutrements-- bed mounts, fuel tank mounts (ASSuming the standard 'in-cab relocation'), shock mounts, etc. While OP's approach is certainly not a _bad_ way to do it, I wouldn't try to justify it based on saving money... 'cuz that's just not going to be the case.

BTW, joehalford01, I did a complete 2x4 back half on my truck. It gave me the "notch" I needed and gave me clearance on the trailing arms. It was $120 for the steel and tons upon tons more time/money for fabbing new mount points for EVERYTHING.

[joehalford01]

my wallet hates you

i see what you guys are saying though. thanks for the pics as well. i want to do this as low budget as possible so i'm trying to pinch pennies as best i can. I don't think the four link is an option at this point, even the universal kits add about $400 to the bottom line. I'll spend some time this weekend going over the back end of the truck and make a decision. thanks for the help.

[Slmd92DIME]

XXL that truck is awesome. Love the stepside bed.. dont see too many of those any more

[PrerunnerRob]

I'm getting ready to cut off my rear frame clip, PM me if you are interested. It lays out, uses the stock trailing arms, and I have an unfinished reworked trailing arm crossmember.

[jlaird]

didn't know you chopped the top? or is that photoshop?

[XXL]

Originally Posted by jlaird

didn't know you chopped the top? or is that photoshop?

It's in metal... chopped and raked top, and raked A-pillars.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by XXL

That doesn't even factor in fabbing all new rear accoutrements--

Nice vocab!