control arm shaft replacement - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

crm318 · 12-29-2007, 07:52 AM

are there any special tools that i would need to replace the upper control arm shaft? its on a 72 cheyenne.

mbgmike · 12-29-2007, 08:14 AM

I have heard tou can do it w/o tools but I take them to a frame shop that will still take in bench work. They charge us $15.00 each but it saves us time. They use a large press. Ours is too small to do it.

Rally Nova · 12-29-2007, 09:21 AM

I changed out the upper & lower control arm shafts on my '69 GMC. You will need a 1 3/8" socket for the end caps & a sturdy bench vise to hold it!! You might also need a breaker bar & a cheater to initially brak the old ones loose.
Hope that helps!!

JCA1972 · 12-29-2007, 10:26 AM

I didn't have the 1 3/8" socket so I used a pipewrench and a BFH to break the caps loose, after that it comes off really easy.

71/454 · 12-29-2007, 10:39 AM

There is a good how to thread on this somewhere, that's how I learned to do mine.

crm318 · 12-29-2007, 10:55 AM

well, i got one endcap off and the other is stripped, so getting the endcaps off isnt a problem. what will i need a press for?

JCA1972 · 12-29-2007, 11:03 AM

the only thing that I had to use a press for was to install the lower balljoint.

Tynee · 12-29-2007, 11:16 AM

As stated above, the control arm shaft is nothing but a 1-3/8" socket, breaker bar, cheater pipe. Also, be very carefull not to tighten one end too far before getting the other end started when you install the new caps. Your shaft will end up "off-center."

If you are getting into ball joints, then I DEFINITELY recommend paying somebody with a big press. The press that you rent at the local parts store isn't big enough to do them. I learned the hard way. You can do your upper ball joints if you have the time and patience to grind and drill out the rivets.

12-29-2007, 07:52 AM	#1
crm318 Alright Alright Alright Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Midland, Texas Posts: 1,672	control arm shaft replacement are there any special tools that i would need to replace the upper control arm shaft? its on a 72 cheyenne. __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Chevrolet red and white 357ci, Vortec heads, GM Performance high rise intake, Comp 268H .454/.454 218/218 110 LSA Quadrajet carb, Flowtech headers, 2.25 40 series HEI, Curve kit, TH 350, 3.07 gears 275/60/15s on 15x8 rallies

12-29-2007, 08:14 AM	#2
mbgmike Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Pasadena,Tx /Pto Pta DR Posts: 5,415	Re: control arm shaft replacement I have heard tou can do it w/o tools but I take them to a frame shop that will still take in bench work. They charge us $15.00 each but it saves us time. They use a large press. Ours is too small to do it.

12-29-2007, 09:21 AM	#3
Rally Nova Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: Brazoria, Texas Posts: 60	Re: control arm shaft replacement I changed out the upper & lower control arm shafts on my '69 GMC. You will need a 1 3/8" socket for the end caps & a sturdy bench vise to hold it!! You might also need a breaker bar & a cheater to initially brak the old ones loose. Hope that helps!! __________________ 1969 GMC C-1500 1972 Rally Nova 1988 Monte Carlo SS 2004 GMC 2500 Crew Cab

12-29-2007, 10:26 AM	#4
JCA1972 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Baytown, Texas Posts: 194	Re: control arm shaft replacement I didn't have the 1 3/8" socket so I used a pipewrench and a BFH to break the caps loose, after that it comes off really easy. __________________ 1971 C-10 2004 Yukon: 1998 Honda Accord 2008 Honda Civic 2004 HD V-Rod http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=226458

12-29-2007, 10:39 AM	#5
71/454 Turbo Guy Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Calgary Alberta Posts: 353	Re: control arm shaft replacement There is a good how to thread on this somewhere, that's how I learned to do mine. __________________ 1972 Gmc Custom swb intercooled twin turbo 327 10.5-1 and 12 lbs of boost, Nodular iron case super t-10 4 speed with a blowproof bellhousing, 12 bolt eaton posi soon to have moser axles. 1998 Honda CR250 fully ported, case matched, milled head, vortexed carb and revalved suspension but don't forget the woody woodpecker decal kit! Things I've broken so far: 12 bolt diff saginaw 4 spd many, many pieces Aluminum case Super t-10 4 spd

12-29-2007, 10:55 AM	#6
crm318 Alright Alright Alright Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Midland, Texas Posts: 1,672	Re: control arm shaft replacement well, i got one endcap off and the other is stripped, so getting the endcaps off isnt a problem. what will i need a press for? __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Chevrolet red and white 357ci, Vortec heads, GM Performance high rise intake, Comp 268H .454/.454 218/218 110 LSA Quadrajet carb, Flowtech headers, 2.25 40 series HEI, Curve kit, TH 350, 3.07 gears 275/60/15s on 15x8 rallies

12-29-2007, 11:03 AM	#7
JCA1972 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Baytown, Texas Posts: 194	Re: control arm shaft replacement the only thing that I had to use a press for was to install the lower balljoint. __________________ 1971 C-10 2004 Yukon: 1998 Honda Accord 2008 Honda Civic 2004 HD V-Rod http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=226458

12-29-2007, 11:16 AM	#8
Tynee I miss this truck. Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Lexington, KY U.S.A. Posts: 2,863	Re: control arm shaft replacement As stated above, the control arm shaft is nothing but a 1-3/8" socket, breaker bar, cheater pipe. Also, be very carefull not to tighten one end too far before getting the other end started when you install the new caps. Your shaft will end up "off-center." If you are getting into ball joints, then I DEFINITELY recommend paying somebody with a big press. The press that you rent at the local parts store isn't big enough to do them. I learned the hard way. You can do your upper ball joints if you have the time and patience to grind and drill out the rivets. __________________ '07 GMC Acadia SLT. Sweet ride. '08 Crew Cab Z-71 short bed. Really like this truck A LOT.



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