Finally got rear suspension apart.... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**COBALT** · 10-15-2002, 02:15 AM

OMFG. What a chore. Three bleeding knuckes, one laid-open finger, two burned fingers (blisters), and one sore back and knees later I got it all apart. Had to cut both U-bolts with a repo saw, vice-grip and twist and repo one upper spring bolt, while the other I had to grind the bolt head off from inside the spring (it was rounded like someone tried removing it before and gave up). Only the lower passenger spring bolt came out easy. The other one I had to use a dremel to cut the flanges off the mount to pop it loose. The bolt head broke right off when I tried to turn it. Ironically the easy bolts were the 1 1/8" monsters that were holding the trailing arms to the frame. I had to heat the U-bolt nuts up with a torch, let them cool, heat them up again, etc. until they would turn. Took me the entire extended weekend. I even had the big-dog 3/4" drive breaker with 3' extension, and all the sockets.

Everything was rusted. Everything. Shock stud mounting plates are messed up, but thanks to Lost Wages I'm getting a new set. Panhard bar is going to clean up nice along with the trailing arms. I'm gonna need new hardware for everything (U-bolts), plus new rubber bumpers for the trailing arm plates and the frame.

Two words of advice:

1. Burn out the old bushings with a propane torch. Most enjoyable part of the job by far (not inhaling the smoke, but finding something easy to do for once).

2. Do NOT pick up the inner bushings sleaves too early after burning the bushings out. This was the LEAST enjoyable part of the job for me. I had to soak my fingers in ice water for 30 minutes. Dumb-a$$.

Sorry for the finger in the pic. It's one of the burned ones

colohusker · 10-15-2002, 02:41 AM

Thanks for the heads up! I'll make sure I plenty of beer around to keep my hands cool.

Actually, I'll be helping a friend take his leaf rear apart this weekend coming up, so I'll let you know how that went.

chevyman02 · 10-15-2002, 03:44 PM

Good job man, thanks for the tip.

Sounds like the nightmare i'm having with my suspension. Getting it this far was cake, now I'm running into bolts that act like they are 32 years old.

**MikeB** · 10-15-2002, 03:51 PM

Is that a hot bushing or your fingers glowing on the lower left part of the picture?

**COBALT** · 10-15-2002, 04:03 PM

It's my poor abused left index finger. I managed to filet it with a rasor when I was cutting the excess rubber off the panhard bar. After cleaning and wrapping the wound so I could continue to work I burned out the bushings with a torch. After that I got busy with something else and neglected to pay attention to how much time had passed. Without thinking about it I reached down and picked up one of those metal sleaves that had fallen out of the panhard bar. OUCH.

Now my left hand is a bruised, sliced, blistered mass of bone and flesh. Not too smart. Good news is that I managed to avoid the emergency room, but that was debatable for a while with that cut to the finger. I can barely type now.

Seriously, I'm blowing things out of proportion a bit. I cut it pretty bad, and its in a bad spot, but it doesn't need stitches. It'll just take time to heal. Whoever said, "make sure you have tons of bandaids ready" wasn't kidding.

Kas68c10 · 10-15-2002, 04:31 PM

I know how you feel, I did mine this summer, then the rear end blew and I had to take it all apart again ! Needless to say, it was easier the second time !
Got my u bolts and spring cups from GMC Paul, axle saddles from early classic enterprises, and used trailer arms from vintage classic trucks. Springs were supplied locally.I also coated everything with POR 15, so hopefully I will never have to do it again !

nate68 · 10-15-2002, 04:46 PM

did you use wd40 at all?

Stepside · 10-15-2002, 06:22 PM

The pic looks good. You have parts laying around. Yep, I've done that. Your hands would feel alot worse if you would have gave up

Good job! Just think, from now on, they will unbolt like they're supposed to

Brad · 10-15-2002, 07:41 PM

As my uncle always says: "you're supposed to rake your knuckles on something and skin them up first, then you don't have the stress of anticipating it..."

**COBALT** · 10-15-2002, 07:49 PM

Thanks. WD-40 wouldn't have made a dent. I had tri-flow, some "As Seen on TV" crap my dad thinks works good, and some liquid wrench. Problem is most of the bolts would immediately round off they were so rusted.

Someone mentioned Kroil, but I need to get some. I heard Tacoma Screw has it (search using Google.com).

10-15-2002, 02:15 AM	#1
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Finally got rear suspension apart.... OMFG. What a chore. Three bleeding knuckes, one laid-open finger, two burned fingers (blisters), and one sore back and knees later I got it all apart. Had to cut both U-bolts with a repo saw, vice-grip and twist and repo one upper spring bolt, while the other I had to grind the bolt head off from inside the spring (it was rounded like someone tried removing it before and gave up). Only the lower passenger spring bolt came out easy. The other one I had to use a dremel to cut the flanges off the mount to pop it loose. The bolt head broke right off when I tried to turn it. Ironically the easy bolts were the 1 1/8" monsters that were holding the trailing arms to the frame. I had to heat the U-bolt nuts up with a torch, let them cool, heat them up again, etc. until they would turn. Took me the entire extended weekend. I even had the big-dog 3/4" drive breaker with 3' extension, and all the sockets. Everything was rusted. Everything. Shock stud mounting plates are messed up, but thanks to Lost Wages I'm getting a new set. Panhard bar is going to clean up nice along with the trailing arms. I'm gonna need new hardware for everything (U-bolts), plus new rubber bumpers for the trailing arm plates and the frame. Two words of advice: 1. Burn out the old bushings with a propane torch. Most enjoyable part of the job by far (not inhaling the smoke, but finding something easy to do for once). 2. Do NOT pick up the inner bushings sleaves too early after burning the bushings out. This was the LEAST enjoyable part of the job for me. I had to soak my fingers in ice water for 30 minutes. Dumb-a$$. Sorry for the finger in the pic. It's one of the burned ones Attached Images __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. Last edited by COBALT; 10-15-2002 at 02:19 AM.

10-15-2002, 02:41 AM	#2
colohusker Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 436	Thanks for the heads up! I'll make sure I plenty of beer around to keep my hands cool. Actually, I'll be helping a friend take his leaf rear apart this weekend coming up, so I'll let you know how that went. __________________ ------------------------------------------------ I say it's only money, my wife says it's only a truck.... '71 C10 Deluxe, factory ac, ps, pb, should be done by 2102 Longmont, CO husker95@hotmail.com

10-15-2002, 03:51 PM	#4
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,599	Is that a hot bushing or your fingers glowing on the lower left part of the picture? __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

10-15-2002, 04:03 PM	#5
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	It's my poor abused left index finger. I managed to filet it with a rasor when I was cutting the excess rubber off the panhard bar. After cleaning and wrapping the wound so I could continue to work I burned out the bushings with a torch. After that I got busy with something else and neglected to pay attention to how much time had passed. Without thinking about it I reached down and picked up one of those metal sleaves that had fallen out of the panhard bar. OUCH. Now my left hand is a bruised, sliced, blistered mass of bone and flesh. Not too smart. Good news is that I managed to avoid the emergency room, but that was debatable for a while with that cut to the finger. I can barely type now. Seriously, I'm blowing things out of proportion a bit. I cut it pretty bad, and its in a bad spot, but it doesn't need stitches. It'll just take time to heal. Whoever said, "make sure you have tons of bandaids ready" wasn't kidding. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. Last edited by COBALT; 10-15-2002 at 04:07 PM.

10-15-2002, 04:31 PM	#6
Kas68c10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Freeland,Michigan,USA Posts: 312	I know how you feel, I did mine this summer, then the rear end blew and I had to take it all apart again ! Needless to say, it was easier the second time ! Got my u bolts and spring cups from GMC Paul, axle saddles from early classic enterprises, and used trailer arms from vintage classic trucks. Springs were supplied locally.I also coated everything with POR 15, so hopefully I will never have to do it again ! __________________ 1968 SWB Stepside, 250,pwr disc brake and tilt pwr steering, 5 spd tranny, HEI,Accel coil,K&N filter,Seat from a later truck with built in seatbelts, front and rear sway bars, moved gas tank to under the bed, headman hedders, new chrome bumpers,one wire alternator,Weber k550cub carburator...WORK IN PROGRESS, Freeland MI , Just bought a 72 Jimmy!!!!!!!!!!!

10-15-2002, 03:44 PM	#3
chevyman02 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Indpls, IN Posts: 52	Good job man, thanks for the tip. Sounds like the nightmare i'm having with my suspension. Getting it this far was cake, now I'm running into bolts that act like they are 32 years old.

10-15-2002, 04:46 PM	#7
nate68 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: ca Posts: 1,110	did you use wd40 at all? __________________ 68 short step, 406/700r4, 9" w/discs.

10-15-2002, 06:22 PM	#8
Stepside Gasser Join Date: May 2000 Location: Thomasville,NC USA Posts: 456	The pic looks good. You have parts laying around. Yep, I've done that. Your hands would feel alot worse if you would have gave up Good job! Just think, from now on, they will unbolt like they're supposed to __________________ :thud 70 sstep tubbed, Muncie, double hump, snowflake,

10-15-2002, 07:41 PM	#9
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,672	As my uncle always says: "you're supposed to rake your knuckles on something and skin them up first, then you don't have the stress of anticipating it..." __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

10-15-2002, 07:49 PM	#10
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Thanks. WD-40 wouldn't have made a dent. I had tri-flow, some "As Seen on TV" crap my dad thinks works good, and some liquid wrench. Problem is most of the bolts would immediately round off they were so rusted. Someone mentioned Kroil, but I need to get some. I heard Tacoma Screw has it (search using Google.com). __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.