Cleaning old trailing arms... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**COBALT** · 10-15-2002, 02:03 PM

...how? Any special techniques? Those holes for the spring hardware and the U-bolts are crusty as hell on the inside. I thought I'd just take them to the local coin-operated car wash and blast and then brush the outsides, but what about those stupid holes?

**1971Stepside** · 10-15-2002, 02:11 PM

The only true way to clean them up (in my opinion) is to sandblast them. Lost wages took his apart and blasted his and then welded them back together....he has too much free time though

You could try the car wash, but without some wire brushing and lots of elbow grease I don't think water pressure will get you much.

**COBALT** · 10-15-2002, 02:26 PM

No, I can take care of the outsides it's the insides that I'm worried about. Those damn holes, and the channels between the pieces that collect stuff. Taking them apart is the obvious answer, but sheesh...

**1971Stepside** · 10-15-2002, 02:43 PM

O, I'm with ya now. Yeah, I took the nozel of the sand blaster and held it in there until I couldn't see anymore because of the dust and debris flying. I feel like they are 80 % clean and the powder coated the rest. Taking them apart was way too much hassle and mine were pretty free of rust from the get go.

I'm at a loss to help you unless you take them apart or sandblast.

**COBALT** · 10-15-2002, 02:46 PM

Yeah thanks. I'm going to think about this one...

jmil1974 · 10-15-2002, 03:11 PM

Have you thought about a Dremel for the holes? Then just vacuum or blow out any left over junk . . . would that work?

**COBALT** · 10-15-2002, 03:57 PM

Oh no. I was hoping someone wouldn't say the "D" word. Yeah, I'd thought of that. I had to use the dremel to grind off the heads of the spring bolts inside the springs to get them loose. Aside from taking them apart its probably the best plan.

Kas68c10 · 10-15-2002, 04:24 PM

I got mine from California, they were pretty clean so I wire wheeled (dont have a sandblaster, and they were real clean) them, royal jellied them and POR 15 the snot out of them.
So far so good, no rust or bubbling, this winter will test them

slam33 · 10-15-2002, 08:55 PM

I'm sending mine to the blaster as soon as I can straighten the bushing end on one of them. then I'm going to box them.

Spoof · 10-15-2002, 09:36 PM

I'm kind of concerned about mine as well, you can see rust flaking between the two sides but no way to get at it. I did what I could to dig it out with a putty knife etc. but I guess I'm going to have to live with it cuz I'm definately not taking them apart!

10-15-2002, 02:03 PM	#1
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Cleaning old trailing arms... ...how? Any special techniques? Those holes for the spring hardware and the U-bolts are crusty as hell on the inside. I thought I'd just take them to the local coin-operated car wash and blast and then brush the outsides, but what about those stupid holes? __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-15-2002, 02:11 PM	#2
1971Stepside Almost Satisfied Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,932	The only true way to clean them up (in my opinion) is to sandblast them. Lost wages took his apart and blasted his and then welded them back together....he has too much free time though You could try the car wash, but without some wire brushing and lots of elbow grease I don't think water pressure will get you much. __________________ 1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far."

10-15-2002, 02:26 PM	#3
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	No, I can take care of the outsides it's the insides that I'm worried about. Those damn holes, and the channels between the pieces that collect stuff. Taking them apart is the obvious answer, but sheesh... __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-15-2002, 02:43 PM	#4
1971Stepside Almost Satisfied Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,932	O, I'm with ya now. Yeah, I took the nozel of the sand blaster and held it in there until I couldn't see anymore because of the dust and debris flying. I feel like they are 80 % clean and the powder coated the rest. Taking them apart was way too much hassle and mine were pretty free of rust from the get go. I'm at a loss to help you unless you take them apart or sandblast. __________________ 1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far."

10-15-2002, 02:46 PM	#5
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Yeah thanks. I'm going to think about this one... __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-15-2002, 03:11 PM	#6
jmil1974 Ain't we cute? Join Date: May 2002 Location: Friendswood, TX Posts: 700	Have you thought about a Dremel for the holes? Then just vacuum or blow out any left over junk . . . would that work? __________________ 69 C10 2WD LWB Fleet 350/350 power front disc conversion (6 lug disc kit from gmcpauls) and new engine, PS, A/C, fresh fluids, SHE DRIVES! FOR SALE $3900

10-15-2002, 03:57 PM	#7
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Oh no. I was hoping someone wouldn't say the "D" word. Yeah, I'd thought of that. I had to use the dremel to grind off the heads of the spring bolts inside the springs to get them loose. Aside from taking them apart its probably the best plan. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-15-2002, 04:24 PM	#8
Kas68c10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Freeland,Michigan,USA Posts: 312	I got mine from California, they were pretty clean so I wire wheeled (dont have a sandblaster, and they were real clean) them, royal jellied them and POR 15 the snot out of them. So far so good, no rust or bubbling, this winter will test them __________________ 1968 SWB Stepside, 250,pwr disc brake and tilt pwr steering, 5 spd tranny, HEI,Accel coil,K&N filter,Seat from a later truck with built in seatbelts, front and rear sway bars, moved gas tank to under the bed, headman hedders, new chrome bumpers,one wire alternator,Weber k550cub carburator...WORK IN PROGRESS, Freeland MI , Just bought a 72 Jimmy!!!!!!!!!!!

10-15-2002, 08:55 PM	#9
slam33 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Long Beach, Ca Posts: 1,432	I'm sending mine to the blaster as soon as I can straighten the bushing end on one of them. then I'm going to box them. __________________ 71 LWB 350/350still working on it but it's going tp be sweet. www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html " TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 </A>

10-15-2002, 09:36 PM	#10
Spoof Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Victoria,BC, Canada Posts: 1,300	I'm kind of concerned about mine as well, you can see rust flaking between the two sides but no way to get at it. I did what I could to dig it out with a putty knife etc. but I guess I'm going to have to live with it cuz I'm definately not taking them apart! __________________ 71 GMC 1500 LWB



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