lifting a 67 k10

[killa98z]

hi i would first like to say im new here and this is my first truck its a 1967 k10 short bed and im looking to lift it.i want to either a 4 or 6 inch lift but i heard theres problems with the steering on 1967s it this true.wat can be done. need some help.Second question
it has the rockwell transfer case but i heard that u are limited on ur top speed with this case is this true can anyone help me out thanks john

[killa98z]

anyone need help

[john@thepier]

67 are a tuff one for lifting. First off no manufacurer offers a spring lift for them. Some may list that they do but they don't. 67 have the spring pack bolt centered in the pack where as all other years it is offset, also the springs on a 67 are wider than other years. There are places that will make you springs but nothing off the shelf. I know because I've been restoring a 67 4x4 over the past few years. I've thought of swapping out to a later 69-72 frame which is the best allternative, allowing for easyer and less expensive lifting and the ability to install power steering but, settled on rebuilding my springs with new bushings and staying stock height.. Good luck frusterating it is! Picture is of what I started with. JOHN

[LooseScrews]

Good luck, Killa! We're restoring a '67 K10 shorty, too. We have a very good friend (almost like family) who was the manager at our local off-road service center/mechanic shop/store. He's done some amazing work on some Blazers and such and really knows his stuff. He's volunteered to help with suspension, and this truck has him scratching his head.

Like John@the peir, we've decided to stay w/ the original frame. I figure it's not every day you can get your hands on a #'s matching truck w/ the original engine so we'll stay mostly stock. Let us know what you find out there. Knowledge is power!!

[Yukon Jack]

In relation to your Rockwell t/c question, it's ratio is the same as the NP205, 1:1 in high and a touch under 2:1 in low.

So no, that case doesn't limit your ur top speed. Course top speed is kinda a laughable term when talking about a 67-72 4wd.

[1969K10]

Originally Posted by Yukon Jack

In relation to your Rockwell t/c question, it's ratio is the same as the NP205, 1:1 in high and a touch under 2:1 in low.

So no, that case doesn't limit your ur top speed. Course top speed is kinda a laughable term when talking about a 67-72 4wd.

[killa98z]

thanks for you help keep it coming.so your saying i should have no problems with highway speed like about 60-65 mph.just so everyone know i have the closed knuckle front end so what would have to be done to lift it 4-6 inches and still be able to steer thanks again i want to say im only 17 doing a frame off resto on this truck and since numbers match i would like to keep it that way if possible.

[john@thepier]

I say keep it stock height, but if you spring the $ for some custom lift springs, all you'll need to do is lenghthen the link between steering box to the axle. but again you still have to come up with the powersteering turning those big tires will be killer without it. Take a look at your truck and you'll kmow what I'm talking about as far as the steering link

[Yukon Jack]

What is your axle ratio? That will have a bit to do with how well you can go 60-65 mph. My 69 K20 with 4.56 gears and 35"s is reving pretty high to hit 60 mph. I usually just drive at about 55 mph.

In relation to your steering question, with a closed knuckle axle you use an adjustable drop drag link to correct your steering. Skyjacker or Superlift has one available. That is what I'm using on my 69.

[bad_turbo]

my '67 K10 burb was all stock when I got it and driving on the freeway at speed was not a problem even though everything was old and original, suspension wise. I picked up a '68 K20 Gmc truck that had lived in the snow all its life and was pretty beat up, but it had an old custom made lift on it, so I swapped the axles and springs over to my burb and the burb stuff back over to the truck with not too many headaches. So now I have '68 3/4 ton axles under my 1/2 ton burb with a little lift to clear some 37 inch tires. I don't have power steering but it doesn't seem to be a problem and driving on the freeway isn't any harder than before the swap.

[killa98z]

how bad is it turning with out the power steering.how hard to stop with drum brakes all the way around.looking fro just 4 in front springs anyone know where to get them and what brand

[1969k10stepside]

Another thing to think of..If you want to keep your stock frame you could always use newer 69-72 spring hangers and shackles so you can use a lift from a 69-72.The only drawback to doing this with an older (Pre 69) truck is the frame isn't dimpled for a regular power steering box and you'll still need to modify the frame for the power steering.I'd go to the junkyard and get a front axle from a 71-87 GM 4wd truck or 71-91 Blazer or burb so you get the added discs and turning is better with an open knuckle axle.

[killa98z]

hey yukon jack where would i get his drop drag link for my 1967

[bad_turbo]

turning is not a problem for me without p/s, just sucks when your trying to parallel park. Just had all new brakes put in the Dana 60 rear and it stops great. Also installed a new power brake booster.

[earl87gta]

I have a sky jacker lift on my 68 so i know they make a lift for the 67. in 67 the front sperings were only 2.5 wide and the rear springs were 3 wide. from 69 up the rear was 2.5 wide and the front were 3 wide.
As for the rock well I think most people say its only good to 55 miles an hour or so becuse any thing faster then that and it is so load you cant think. My wife says it sounds like a jet plain taking off.

[killa98z]

will the rough country 4in fit because i looked in lmc and they dont list different springs for the front 67-72 uses the same ones.

[1969k10stepside]

Words of advice...don't buy Rough Country.I had a 9 month ordeal with my Rough Country lift...

[68K20 x Drill]

Originally Posted by killa98z

how bad is it turning with out the power steering.how hard to stop with drum brakes all the way around.looking fro just 4 in front springs anyone know where to get them and what brand

If you are not moving, and twisted up on a rock or in mud, you won't be steering.
Drums take less pedal pressure to get the same stop, but they are also prone to embarrassing one wheel squeal and fading out on long hills.

[killa98z]

im only 17 and rough country is what i can afford

[earl87gta]

They will not work to wide you best bet will be to got to http://diy4x.com/suspension.htm and get a set of the b52s then go to a salvage yard and get a set of 52 in rear springs to use it will give you the 4in you want. for the rear of your truck use blocks or add a leaf or 2 to the pack you have. I have drum breaks on my 68 it stops it takes a while but it stops just dont ride any ones tail. I only have trouble steering if the suspention is flexed out on normal daily driving its not a problem. I would keep an eye out if i was you for a set of axles out of a newer truck so you can have the better breaks but when you can aford it just get the parts alittle at a time. you should be able to put a 4in lift change out the axles to disk breaks and add pwer steering for less then 1000. the bigger tires will be the most expensive part of the lift.

[dinotruck68]

Earls right i found lift kits for 67's on the sckyjacker website... i had also seen a 67 with 8 inch procomp springs... so maybe u should check out procomp to.... but in ur case listening to earl would prolly be alot easyer

[odog]

I have a 67 K20, with closed front axles. Tires measure 33 inches on stock 17" wheels. Its frame off now, but when I would take it to the hills to get wood, turning was a big pain. If your not moving, you had better be popeye because you are gonna need the strength to turn it. I was emailed the power steering swap direstions. PM me if you want them, they are easy to follow. As for the Rockwell, its served me well, I could only get to around 60 - 65 but my gearing is LOW. In high gear, earl is right, sounds like a jet winding up. As far as the lift, I don't know. I have heard of guys getting 3/4 ton spring packs from a wrecking yard and doubling up the front and rear packs of their trucks with those. Kinda makes sense to me. I would stay away from front lift blocks at all costs. bad things can happen there.

[Yukon Jack]

I got my adjustable drop drag link from www.offroaddesign.com - had to call as it wasn't listed on their site.

[ND_guy]

I lifted my 67 using a 4" Rancho kit. It rides pretty poorly so I dont recommend it. On the steering issue, I mounted a new style power box using 1/2" stands welded to the frame. I took a drag link off an 80s sub then shortened it and cut new threads in the lathe(dont remember how much). The manual drums after lifting were a joke so I switched to hydroboost and it has helped alot, but the drums still aren't as good as discs. I have a complete 8lug disk setup waiting for me to find a open knuckle d44.

4' rancho and 315/75R16 procomps

[msgross]

If you check my build thread (link below) you will see that I went for a 1982 front axle to gain disc brakes. I had a hard time when looking into the lift. The rear springs are different length than the newer 69 and up trucks.

The ORD or DIY shackle flip would be good for the rear, and an add-a-leaf or zero-rate spring will help. It is more difficult to add the power steering due to the frame area where the box bolts to. You will have to modify it or "dimple" the frame for it to work.... it's all possible just take your time and do it all right.... don't cut corners in any truck building (unless you like bondo I guess) since safety is very important....

Good luck and add some pics of your ride. not many SWB K-10's out there from 67 and 68....