door bottoms

[novapower]

i have to replace the inside and outside door bottom.can you cut the inside and outside off at the same time or do you have to do one side at a time.

[TravisH]

I did both at the same time

Take measurements for the front and back off a reference point so that the bottom of the door will be square to rest when you replace it and remember to cut the drain notches on the inner panel

[Botietruck]

As Travis stated, I also did both at the same time. I marked a reference point about 16" up on the outside door skin and installed the new outer bottoms first. I triple checked myself to make sure everything was right. After welding the outer piece in place, I then installed the inner piece. I butt welded everything except the inner bottom across the door. I flanged that, with the upper part of the door panel overlapping the lower piece to prevent water /moisture from getting in to the lap joint.
BTW, while the door bottoms are off, this is a great time to sandblast/wirebrush the inside of the door and put a good coat of epoxy primer on...etching primer first if you take it to bare metal. Another thing, cut out no more of the parent metal than what you absolutely have to.
Shoot us some pics along the way.

[heavy71chevy]

Do they make replacemnt door bottoms cause mine were bondoed up and nice and rusty?

[1LoC10]

Originally Posted by heavy71chevy

Do they make replacemnt door bottoms cause mine were bondoed up and nice and rusty?

[heavy71chevy]

thnaks loc10..who sells them?

[1LoC10]

I know GMC Pauls.. im sure others do as well

[ebfabman]

I would recommend doing one side at a time. Start by making a template of the lower door contour in a few places. I think the best place to get a template from is actually the cab corner area and the front fender area where the door will align to. Maybe even make an overall template of the door about the center from window opening to bottom of the door. This will help ensure a good fit while you are doing the repairs. Start with the inside first. Start by grinding the lip off of the outer skin where it folds over the inner panel. Peel away the lip so you can separate the inner from the outer. Fit and tack the inner in first checking with the templates as you work . Once you are happy with the fit of the inner, do the outer skin starting with the middle of the door with tacks and work your way toward the outer edge. Mock fitting the door during this repair will help. Remember to just keep everything tacked until you are completely happy with the way everything fits and lines up then do the final welds.

[AuggieStyle]

Originally Posted by ebfabman

I would recommend doing one side at a time. Start by making a template of the lower door contour in a few places. I think the best place to get a template from is actually the cab corner area and the front fender area where the door will align to. Maybe even make an overall template of the door about the center from window opening to bottom of the door. This will help ensure a good fit while you are doing the repairs. Start with the inside first. Start by grinding the lip off of the outer skin where it folds over the inner panel. Peel away the lip so you can separate the inner from the outer. Fit and tack the inner in first checking with the templates as you work . Once you are happy with the fit of the inner, do the outer skin starting with the middle of the door with tacks and work your way toward the outer edge. Mock fitting the door during this repair will help. Remember to just keep everything tacked until you are completely happy with the way everything fits and lines up then do the final welds.

nice work........

[special-K]

Glad to see I`m not the only one that thinks saving an original door is worth the effort.

[see ten]

Originally Posted by special-K

Glad to see I`m not the only one that thinks saving an original door is worth the effort.

Been there.

[Mordachai]

Interesting, you guys seem to cut that outer right on the body line.
Being a moldmaker and knowing a few body guys, I've always tried to do work like that away from a body line.

It is much harder to do the body work on a crease,fold, curve etc and make it look perfect.
It is heck of alot easier to make a flat area flat again with simple block sanding.


I am about to fix my doors as well, but was going to cut the outer an inch or two Below that body line(there's enough good metal). I guess you could go above the body line too- my patch panels have an inch or so material above the body line.

That way it's really easy to to the body work for paint, instead of mussing around with trying to get that curve/peak perfectly straight.





I'm really interested to see what others have to say about this.

[TravisH]

I've found it easiest to weld on a convex body line. If you cut straight then the line will be as well, if you there was some filler needed its not hard to touch up the edge

If you were to weld in on a flat section the panel flexes much easier and so I've found it harder to get everything exact and would end up with a low spot that needed filler. I'm better at steel so I get as close as I can with that. Plus I think it looks better not having a visible weld area for all the time my door sits bare - take a look at ebfabmans door, it just looks right instead of having a little visible seam. Just my opinion

[see ten]

The side molding will also be your friend if your repair is less than stellar.