ok time for some electrical fires

[Srubydo1986]

(ok lets get started shell we, friday around noon i desided to take a look under my truck and i found that a feul line had broken and was poring fuel over my headers. i got it towed home and replaced the fuel lines. i went to turn truck back on and batery was dead (had radio on ). went to charge battery and just see how she soulds with no exaugst just headers.

well i didnt have the ground tight enough so truck caught fire in the emergancy break cable. put fire out and tighten cables still it started but didnt work for long started fried, reason it was old. replaced started with in 10 starts startr was done reason it got stuck out and the engine was turning the starter and not letting it disingage. so that started fried

So i have a few questions one what caused it to get stuck, if my amp meter reads almost 18 in my truck not in red just about tho alternator is bad right?, and also how do i keep a starter in this thing im on my 4th in a year (other two i think died cause of heat.)

[chev74]

cant helo on all of them, but as for the starter, you can buy some header wrap and put that around the starter. thats what i have been told to do

[Survivin Project]

I had the same problem for the longest time but it dident happen everytime. Thought it was the start just getting too hot or something, but it turned out there was a wire that was bare and touch one of the wires from the altornator. Check the conector at the alternator. Dont know if this helps but i know how much it sucks hope u get it all figured out. good luck

[pcmcobra]

get a remote started solenoid, might alleviate replacing those starters. I did it to mine, got it mounted on passenger inner fenderwell. I call it a cheap investment.
Good luck.

[James McClure]

Scrubby: There are several reasons a starter will remain engaged after engine starts even with a new starter. Most common is a low battery. Starter draw is so high with a low battery that the "connection disk" inside the solinoid welds itself to the "B" and "M" studs at the back of the solinoid. Take a solinoid appart sometime and you'll see what I mean. Next most common is a short between the "R" & "S" terminals on the starter. "R" terminal is for engines with point type distributors and gets "B"+ when the "S" term is powered by the ign switch. I usually snap that stud off even with the nut. Purple wire rubs on "R" terminal until insulation is gone and shorts out creating a "loop" and keeping starter engaged. Next would be a faulty ign switch, or if you have worked on the steering colunm, a miss adjusted switch. A mechanical issue is the least likely cause for a remain engaged problem. The design of the clutch (part of the gear assembly) will force the gear back on start up IF power is removed from "S" terminal. Also I would run through your grounds and make sure they are all good. A circut, any circut, "seeking" ground when ign switch is in "run" position could do this as well as drive you bonkers trying to find it!! I had one that wouldn't shut off if the parking lights were on or if you had your foot on the brakes!! Finally traced that down to a bad ground behind the left rear parking lamp. Hope this helps, jim