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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 18
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When it's cold out or even when it's not and it's just been a while since I've started it up, I need to hit the gas HARD, over and over, right after I start it up or it will die. And sometimes, no matter how much I gas it, it dies after a few seconds, requiring me to turn the key again. Usually, though, if I gas it enough, it won't die and I'm fine. But it's annoying and I can only imagine how much I spend on gas just starting it up everyday. Also ...
Once my truck fires up and stays fired up, it runs like a top--it doesn't stall out randomly, and will run for hours. But if it runs for too long and I turn it off, it's hard to get it to start again; I sometimes have to wait thirty minutes or so before it will start up (it won't even turn over--just clicks every time until it's been long enough, and then it starts up like there was never a problem in the first place). Any suggestions for my (1) heat-soaked and (2) cold start problems? Thanks. |
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#2 |
I am a Referee of life.
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Greensboro N.C.
Posts: 13,993
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
The heat soak could probably be solved by the Ford solenoid upgrade.There should be a FAQ on that.The cold start problem seems more like afuel problem.I would guess your carb is letting fuel run back or maybe the float level is off.It's also possible the fuel pump is weak.Maybe someone else has another idea.
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The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil" |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 18
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
Thanks for your response. As far as the carb is concerned, I've considered taking it out, blowing it up and cleaning it out. Is that a good idea generally, and if you've done it before, do you have any idea how long that would take?
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#4 |
Will it run today?
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 272
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
I went with the Ford solenoid upgrade and it was worth the very little money and time that went into it. For cold start issue what carb are you running? Do you have a fuel filter?
Could be a lot of things, but I would start with fuel/fuel delivery. I had a similar cold start problem on a brand new Holley carb that ended up being just a bad cast. Some leftover burrs from the casting job was causing the float to sit open all the time. Also, if there's junk in the carb from the tank it will settle after you're done driving and "blow" out when you're at speed making it seem like normal driving is fine, but only start up is affected.
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Jaws, the 1971 Chevy Cheyenne Longbed. She's big, grey, and has an insatiable appetite! |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Virginia Beach, Va, USA
Posts: 1,677
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
As far as it not starting after it has run awhile. Go to the help section at your auto parts dealer. They have a starter solenoid cover that you can use. Less than five bucks.
Kerry
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1969 Chevelle 1990 IROC Z Convertible 2002 Silverado LT |
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#6 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 18
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
Quote:
As far as your second paragraph: are you suggesting I clean out the carb and/or the tank, or that I get a new carb? How can I tell if my carb needs outright replacement or just a wash? |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 18
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
Thanks. I'll try that. I think my starter is new, but perhaps upgrading to the Ford Chevyholic suggested and getting a shield will do the trick.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
i'd start by changing the fuel filter(its in the fuel inlet of the carb) then i'd do new air filter new properly gapped plugs then if you still have points i'd set the dwell its all normal routine maintenance
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#9 | |
Will it run today?
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 272
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
Quote:
Sorry if my previous post was confusing and this one for that matter. I just had knee surgery and am hopped up on Vicodin.
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Jaws, the 1971 Chevy Cheyenne Longbed. She's big, grey, and has an insatiable appetite! |
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#10 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 18
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
Quote:
I've had the truck for a year, but I'm guessing the carb has been on it for a while--a buddy of mine who knows old trucks well suggested that the carb could use an overhaul, but that was just by glancing at it. So--forgive me, I'm totally new to this stuff--what do you mean by "rebuild"? Is that code for "buy a new one"? I'm not made of money, but it is a little less valuable to me than my time, so I'd prefer to buy a new carb (any suggestions) to rebuilding, unless I'm exaggerating how difficult it is. I don't mind spending an entire Saturday to rebuild one, if that's what I'm looking at. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Virginia Beach, Va, USA
Posts: 1,677
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
By rebuilding he was talking about getting a kit that has all the gaskets, floats, needle valves, etc. You would disassemble the whole thing. Then clean all the components you will reuse with Carbeurator cleaner. Then reassemble it with the parts you bought. You will have to adjust various things like the idle and mixture settings.Some carbs are easier to work on than others.
Kerry
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1969 Chevelle 1990 IROC Z Convertible 2002 Silverado LT |
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#12 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 18
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
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#13 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Maria, Ca.
Posts: 1,423
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
Quote:
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
everybody is having you jump on the carb replace rebuild bandwagon without a thought of the simple cheap routine things to check for proper maintenance and tuning// GOOD LUCK
__________________
71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#15 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southeast Missouri
Posts: 2,436
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Re: Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems
I was having problems with my C-10 that has a Q-jet not staying running after cold starting.
I adjusted the choke and it stays running after starting at a fast idle until it warms up some. Then it runs great. I also had a problem a long time ago with a car not turning over when warm, after checking it over I found that the battery was bad. Hope this helps. Danny - Southeast Missouri |
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