Transmission deal

[Tim64]

Hey Guys,
Well, it looks like I'm going to go with a 700r4 transmission out of a 92' Chevy truck. I don't know the miles, but it's a good smooth shifting transmission. I'll get the transmission, drive shaft, torque converter, and cross member, which I may not be able to use. $250.00 for everything. Sounded like a good price to me. What do you guys think? Also he may have a flex plate, but he's not sure. I'm going to bolt this up to the 75' 250ci that's already in the truck. It has a 3 speed in it now. Can someone help me out with else I'll need. My understanding is the 700r4 will bolt right up to my 6cyl without any modifications, is that correct? I know I'll need some transmission lines. What else do I need? I'm not sure about the speedometer, or if I can use the same starter. I'm thinking I can't, but I'm not sure on that either. As you guys know this is my driver, and I can't have it tore down for very long, so I want to have all my ducks in a row before I start.
Thanks for the help,
Tim

[Chevy Fleetside]

I would say put a mild shift kit in it if he has not already done it. The 1-2 shift in my 79 4x4 can chirp the rear wheels. It has a 700R4 in it also. You don't need to go to that extent but it would add to tranny life.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

I would say put a mild shift kit in it if he has not already done it. The 1-2 shift in my 79 4x4 can chirp the rear wheels. It has a 700R4 in it also. You don't need to go to that extent but it would add to tranny life.

That is for sure.....The more an auto tranny "caddy" shifts, the more heat is generated, thereby creating more wear.

You want the tranny to upshift right into the next gear, not sllllliiiiiddeee into it.

Either way, that tranny is gonna be awesome in your truck behind that sixxer !!

You got a cooler for it yet ?? Or is your radiator auto tranny ready ??

Post up some progree pics....

Later

[Tim64]

Hey John,
My radiator is tranny ready, but I was thinking of using a trans cooler anyway. It's a stock tranny no shift kit. Any suggestions on a shift kit?
Tim

[ChiefRocka]

An extra cooler will not hurt at all...the cooler the better !!

As far as a tranny kit, I would go for a basic shift improver kit....which usually involves disaasemlby of the valve body, drill'n some holes, springs and check balls.

Pretty easy to do, especially with the tranny out of the truck, laying on its side.

[Tim64]

I don't know about taking apart the valve body, and drilling holes. I've removed and installed a few trannys over the years, but I've never got inside one.
Tim

[Chevy Fleetside]

Maybe you can find someone who can do it for you. Go to a tranny shop at lunch time and ask the machanic's if they do any side work or maybe one can do it for you at your house. Or maybe you know someone...

[protrash64]

..........if you dont know already.........the cable tension is extremely important to the life of the tranny in the case of 700r4. It regulates fluid pressure inside the tranny. You may have to make some linkage adjustments to get it to correctly shift..........my buddys shop always does the vacuum switch. Also Summit sells a throttle valve bracket to correct these issues for holley and edelbrock carbs.

I am no expert on these trannys but learned this stuff trying to get mine to shift correctly.

Sounds like a nice combo and one that Ive considered for an economy driver.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by protrash64

..........if you dont know already.........the cable tension is extremely important to the life of the tranny in the case of 700r4. It regulates fluid pressure inside the tranny. You may have to make some linkage adjustments to get it to correctly shift..........my buddys shop always does the vacuum switch. Also Summit sells a throttle valve bracket to correct these issues for holley and edelbrock carbs.

I am no expert on these trannys but learned this stuff trying to get mine to shift correctly.

Sounds like a nice combo and one that Ive considered for an economy driver.

Aahhh yes, the TV cable is VERY important in this tranny !!!

The shift kits come with good instructions...not a big deal, you can handle it !!!

[kdrodworks316]

rule #1 with a 700r4 is massive tranny cooler and shift kit. I like to use the big tube GM AC condenser. dont be afraid of the valve body, very simple hydraulics that look complex. take your time, or send it to me and I will install it for you. pm me if you need a walk thru.

[Tim64]

Hey Guys,
I appreciate all the suggestions. I won't get the tranny until next week sometime. When I get started I'll let you all know how it's going and post some pics. I don't know any tranny guys who I could get to work on it on the side, but I do know a place I have always taken trans work to, and maybe I'll stop by and talk to them. I'll let you know how it goes. In the mean time if any body thinks of something else I need to get, or think about doing please chime in and let me know.
Thanks,
Tim

[greg64]

Hi Tim,

I wanted to second the importance of the TV cable adjustment. Additionally, you'll need a method (either manual or auto) to lockup the torque convertor. The last thing is if you use an external tranny cooler and the rad tranny cooler, make sure you plumb the lines so that the fluid goes through the rad cooler first, then the external cooler. At best, the rad cooler can only take the trans fluid down to the coolant temperature.

Good luck

[TimE]

If the 250 still has the original carb(i.e. not a 4 barrel), how would you hook up the TV cable in order for it to operate properly? I have pondered this same swap with my truck and was curious how other people have done this.

[greg64]

I've never done this (bit of a disclaimer), but what you'd need is a second cable stop for the TV cable that runs in parallel with the throttle cable. If you look at factory rigs with the 700R4, you'll see the bracketry has spots for multiple cables. They are then tied together on the throttle arm. Of course, you'd need a certain amount of adjustment in the TV cable to get it setup right. I wonder if it would be easier to have the TV cable connect to the pedal end instead of the carb end..... hmmm.

[Tim64]

I newer ever thought about that. It has a later model 1bbl carb with electric choke. Great lttle carb, but now that I have read a little on tv cables I don't know how to hook it up. Every example I've seen is with a V8.

[Tim64]

Hey Guys,
I got my tranny Monday. Now I need to put together a list of everything I need to go with it. I got the tranny, torque converter, driveshaft yoke, and tranny lines. I will need a floor shifter, tranny cooler, cross member, wiring for lock-up, and flex plate. Is it possible to get a flex plate that will work with my current starter? (Starter is only a couple months old) Bowtie Overdrives has a lot of this stuff, but I don't know what I'm looking for in a flex plate. Can one of you lead me in the right direction? Have I missed anything on my list? I know I need some kind of bracket to hook up my TV cable, but I haven't seen much offered to work with a 6 cyl.
Thanks for the help,
Tim

[gulfcoast66]

Hey tim if its from a 92 its a 4l60 non-cpu 93- 94 4l60e was born. I have one I installing in my truck (V-8) this is the best deal on lock -up switch that i have found.[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

[aggie91]

I don't know about the 700r4/4l60e, but when I put a TH350 behind my 6, I need the small diameter flex plate to work with my stock starter. I believe that the small one has 153 teeth on the ring gear( the larger one had 168 teeth ).

gulfcoast66 - Is that a kit from someone? What is the part number?

[greg64]

Hey Tim, what is the orientation of the two bolts that hold the starter to the block? If they are directly across from each other (perpendicular to the crank) then you need a 153 tooth ring gear. If they are staggered (as mine are on my 250 6), then you need the 168 tooth ring gear. In either case, you can use a ring gear for a small block chevy that has the two piece rear main seal and that is internally balanced (i.e not a 400).

By the way, your current starter isn't mounted to the bellhousing, is it? (no go with the auto) I ask because my SM465 uses a heavy cast iron bellhousing and the starter has to bolt to the bell, so I had to switch starters from my original block mount.

As for the TV cable, you're going to have to built a tab of some sort that can bolt to the carb flange bolts that will hold the cable parallel to the existing throttle cable. It might be a bit tricky, but at least you've got a lot of room to work around the simple 1 bbl. Maybe if you posted a picture of what you have, we'll have some lightbulbs turn on....

[Tim64]

Hey Greg64,
I'm not sure about the starter bolts, but later today I'll check it out. I'll also post some pics in a day or so. Too cold to go out and look right now. It was -2' here this morning when I came to work, but the old truck fired right up and got me here.
Tim

[Tim64]

Hey Guys,
Here are a couple of pics showing the starter, and engine. Also one of the tranny that's going in. After it gets a good bath, and maybe a shift kit. I'm still a little unsure about which flexplate I need the 153, or 168. I hope from these pics someone can help me out.
Thanks,
Tim

[greg64]

Hey Tim, I like the look of that HEI!

Your picture of the starter from the bottom appears to show the style where the starter bolts into the bellhousing with 3 bolts that run parallel to the crank. If so, you won't be able to use this starter with the 700R4, as the nose is wrong. On the flip side, you can probably use either the 168 or 153 tooth ring gear, since you'll have to buy the equivalent starter. By the way, check the block to make sure the bolt holes are all tapped. There should be three in the flange where the threads go straight up from the machined bottom of the flange that is in the same plane as the crank centerline. If all 3 are there then you can use either starter. I had a 168 tooth ring gear on my 250 when I was running a TH350.

Any of you guys know if the bellhousing of the 700R4 is unable to fit the 168 tooth ring gear? I'd think it would clear, but there are some small manual bellhousings that won't clear a 168 tooth flywheel.

[Tim64]

Hey Greg64,
The HEI was the single best thing I've done to this truck. What a difference it made. Now as far as the starter, let me see if I understand. I had a 67' Chevelle once with a 250 power glide combo. I had to replace the starter on it, and it had 2 very long bolts that went straight up from the bottom. I'm thinking this is the starter I need. I that what you're talking about here? Sorry for the confusion on my part, but I really want to get started on this tranny swap, and buying the flex plate is the hold up. Now I guess I can add buying a starter to the hold up list. Thanks for the help guys.
Tim

[Tim64]

Well, I did some checking on Advanced Auto's web-site, and found that the truck this tranny came from (a 91' Chevy w/sb V8) uses a 168 tooth flexplate with a 700R4 tranny. When I looked up the starter for a 75' 250 (that's whats in the truck) I found it to use the starter with the 2 bolts going staright up from the bottom. It also uses a 168 tooth flex plate for an auto tranny. Now I guess I have to remove my starter and make sure there are bolt holes going up into the flange on the block. Does this sound right to folks who have done this before? This is making sense cause when I bought the starter I have now I took the old one off the truck, and took it with me to the parts store. They had to sell me one for a 63' (which I'm guessing is the year of the tranny that's in there, as that is the year of the truck).
Thanks,
Tim

[arkracing]

I ran into the flexplate/tranny problem with a I6 swap. Check everything before you put the tranny in.

I had to use a 153 tooth flywheel and a starter to match. I usually have all that stuff laying around, so it wasn't that big of a deal. You also need to make sure that the bolt holes on the flexplate will line up correctly with the converter. The flywheel needs to be from a pre '86 small block (non-400cid) or 6cly as the '87 + were 1pc rear main seal motors and have a differant crank flange.

Someone indicated that they were able to use the staggered pattern starter with the larger 168 tooth flywheel ???? My block '72 did not have provisions for the staggered starter (maybe the staggard just wasn't threaded) - only a straight across, and there is no starter head that is straight across that will fit the the 168 tooth flywheel (at least not factory, maybe aftermarket) I think that most 6cly's in trucks were 3sp or 4sp's and the flywheel could be 168 as they used a bellhousing mounted starter. Maybe a car with an auto would have the correct starter/flywheel - as long as the bolt holes on the flexplate match the mounts for the converter.


I'll say it again - check EVERYTHING before putting the tranny in - as you will kick yourself if you have to take the tranny back out cause the flywheel doesn't bolt up to the converter.

It has been mentioned before - but the importance of hooking up the TV cable and adjusting it properly are very important!!!!!!!! The lockup kit is a strong suggestion as well.

I like Bowtie overdrives lockup kit, and they have free tech support. They may also be able to help you put something together for the TV cable/bracketry for the carb.