Door won't latch - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Myride67c10 · 10-23-2002, 10:06 AM

Got a little problem. The other day I went to use my passenger side door and when I pressed the button in to open it, I heard parts falling to the inside of the door. Once I tried to close the door it would not latch. I removed the inner door panel and fished around the bottom of the door and found a spring and a few other part. After further investigation I found out these must be the parts that hold force aginist the sprocket shaped wheel in the side of the door to make it latch. I’m able to closed the door and it will stay shut if I lock it. My question is how do I fix it or who do I need to take it to? Maybe also an approx. cost to. Thanks for any help you may be able to give me.

guitarman · 10-23-2002, 10:20 AM

Replace the latch.

Myride67c10 · 10-23-2002, 10:30 AM

Does it come as one assembly? Also do you install it from the inside of the door or the outside? How hard is it to do?

**COBALT** · 10-23-2002, 01:01 PM

My doors wouldn't lock when I first got my truck. The assemblies were rusted solid, and worn out.

This is easy. Get online and order a couple of door latch assemblies from GMC Paul, Classic Hearbeat, Chevy Duty, or someone. I got mine from Brothers. They're about $25 each from Brothers, but they're damn good quality.

You may have to get new screws to hold the assemblies in place. There's 3 per door. I had to order these aftermarket too. None of the stores had them. Same with the panel screws. You can get the rod clips from any parts store, though.

1. Get a cheap-o door handle remover tool from NAPA or Schucks/Checkers for $5.00. Take off the handles, and the handrest off the door. Take the door panel off the inside of the door.
2. Reach in and disconnect the little metal clips that hold the assembly-to-handle rod and the assembly-to-lock button rod onto the assembly. You may have to disconnect them from the handles first. Put those asside.
3. Unscrew the three big screws on the door that hold the assemblies in place.
4. Fuss with the assembly until you can get it free. Drag it out from inside the door.
5. The new ones should be self-lubed and ready to go. Bolt them in place either with new screws, or the ones you salvaged (I had to drill mine out. That sucked.)
6. Reconnect the rods to the new assembly. The holes on the assembly will be new, so it may be kinda difficult to get them in. You may have to disconnect the rod from the window/door relay and do it backwards.
7. Test the door. Only do one at a time so you don't lock yourself out of your truck by accident.
8. Put the panel on, and the handles and armrest.
9. Repeat on other door.

You're done.

Myride67c10 · 10-23-2002, 04:36 PM

Thanks for the info. You are talking about the assembly that goes on the side of the door right? From you discription it sounds like it but I just want to make sure. Also what is it called?

**COBALT** · 10-23-2002, 04:51 PM

Yes, it mounts inside the door so that only the post part of the assembly pokes out the hole in the side of the door that the striker inside the door frame can contact. There's a little star shaped gear in the post that latches to the striker.

They're usually called door latch assemblies. Don't confuse them with window relays and stuff.

Paul Clark · 10-23-2002, 10:07 PM

Get a BIG Phillips screwdriver that really fits the screws holding the door latch to the back of the door. Put a crescent wrench on the handle of the screwdriver and turn while you push. That should remove the latch from the back of the door.
The front of the assembly is held onto the door panel with (I think) 3 more screws. Take them out.
That should do it.
Get a new latch (you'll be glad you did) and put everything back together. I've saved at least one of the rods and a couple of the clips, so if you get in a bind (no pun intended) contact me.
Once everything is back together, you might have to adjust the striker plate. This will either take 20 minutes or 2 days.

Good luck.
Paul

OhioDan · 10-24-2002, 04:07 AM

Before you get into this too deep, check your outside door handle. I opened my door once, and heard the parts fall. After checking, I found that the inside of the handle that pushes against the latch had fallen off. Remove the door handle, 2- 1/4" bolts, and check the handle. Mine had become uncrimped and the spring and pusher(?) had fell out. You might be able to repair them, or you'll have to get another? The outside button on the handle had become wedged in the handle, preventing it from latching. Hope this helps?

10-23-2002, 10:06 AM	#1
Myride67c10 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Asheville, NC Posts: 165	Door won't latch Got a little problem. The other day I went to use my passenger side door and when I pressed the button in to open it, I heard parts falling to the inside of the door. Once I tried to close the door it would not latch. I removed the inner door panel and fished around the bottom of the door and found a spring and a few other part. After further investigation I found out these must be the parts that hold force aginist the sprocket shaped wheel in the side of the door to make it latch. I’m able to closed the door and it will stay shut if I lock it. My question is how do I fix it or who do I need to take it to? Maybe also an approx. cost to. Thanks for any help you may be able to give me. __________________ 1967 C-10 Use to be Riptide

10-23-2002, 10:20 AM	#2
guitarman Do it well or don't do it Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Georgia Posts: 457	Replace the latch. __________________ Try to be the person your dog thinks you are. Excellent paint and body site: http://www.autobody101.com/ Visit my Web Site http://home.attbi.com/~agfosteriii

10-23-2002, 10:30 AM	#3
Myride67c10 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Asheville, NC Posts: 165	Does it come as one assembly? Also do you install it from the inside of the door or the outside? How hard is it to do? __________________ 1967 C-10 Use to be Riptide

10-23-2002, 01:01 PM	#4
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	My doors wouldn't lock when I first got my truck. The assemblies were rusted solid, and worn out. This is easy. Get online and order a couple of door latch assemblies from GMC Paul, Classic Hearbeat, Chevy Duty, or someone. I got mine from Brothers. They're about $25 each from Brothers, but they're damn good quality. You may have to get new screws to hold the assemblies in place. There's 3 per door. I had to order these aftermarket too. None of the stores had them. Same with the panel screws. You can get the rod clips from any parts store, though. 1. Get a cheap-o door handle remover tool from NAPA or Schucks/Checkers for $5.00. Take off the handles, and the handrest off the door. Take the door panel off the inside of the door. 2. Reach in and disconnect the little metal clips that hold the assembly-to-handle rod and the assembly-to-lock button rod onto the assembly. You may have to disconnect them from the handles first. Put those asside. 3. Unscrew the three big screws on the door that hold the assemblies in place. 4. Fuss with the assembly until you can get it free. Drag it out from inside the door. 5. The new ones should be self-lubed and ready to go. Bolt them in place either with new screws, or the ones you salvaged (I had to drill mine out. That sucked.) 6. Reconnect the rods to the new assembly. The holes on the assembly will be new, so it may be kinda difficult to get them in. You may have to disconnect the rod from the window/door relay and do it backwards. 7. Test the door. Only do one at a time so you don't lock yourself out of your truck by accident. 8. Put the panel on, and the handles and armrest. 9. Repeat on other door. You're done. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-23-2002, 04:36 PM	#5
Myride67c10 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Asheville, NC Posts: 165	Thanks for the info. You are talking about the assembly that goes on the side of the door right? From you discription it sounds like it but I just want to make sure. Also what is it called? __________________ 1967 C-10 Use to be Riptide

10-23-2002, 04:51 PM	#6
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Yes, it mounts inside the door so that only the post part of the assembly pokes out the hole in the side of the door that the striker inside the door frame can contact. There's a little star shaped gear in the post that latches to the striker. They're usually called door latch assemblies. Don't confuse them with window relays and stuff. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-23-2002, 10:07 PM	#7
Paul Clark Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Center Point, IA Posts: 502	Get a BIG Phillips screwdriver that really fits the screws holding the door latch to the back of the door. Put a crescent wrench on the handle of the screwdriver and turn while you push. That should remove the latch from the back of the door. The front of the assembly is held onto the door panel with (I think) 3 more screws. Take them out. That should do it. Get a new latch (you'll be glad you did) and put everything back together. I've saved at least one of the rods and a couple of the clips, so if you get in a bind (no pun intended) contact me. Once everything is back together, you might have to adjust the striker plate. This will either take 20 minutes or 2 days. Good luck. Paul

10-24-2002, 04:07 AM	#8
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	Before you get into this too deep, check your outside door handle. I opened my door once, and heard the parts fall. After checking, I found that the inside of the handle that pushes against the latch had fallen off. Remove the door handle, 2- 1/4" bolts, and check the handle. Mine had become uncrimped and the spring and pusher(?) had fell out. You might be able to repair them, or you'll have to get another? The outside button on the handle had become wedged in the handle, preventing it from latching. Hope this helps? __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started.



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