shortening steering column question -

[dan42]

I read putter's link on shortening the steering column, but I was wondering how hard it would be to get the instrument panel out afterward - I don't think you could without dropping the steering column. It looks like a nice modification, but I need to do some work on my instrument panel, and want to be able to have access to it. Has anyone tried to take the panel out after this modification?

[Mint68]

The picture looks too tight to get it out. I have a regular column and a tach, the cluster wont come out just because of the tach. If you like it just do it, dropping the column only takes a few seconds, worth it if you like the look. Plus, how often are you going to be pulling the cluster to make it not worth while doing?

[72swb_327stroker_?]

excellent point!
i'm in the same boat Dan, but if i have to....
like Mint68 said i'm just going to drop the column!

[Dingfodgy]

I personally, won't mind having to drop the column to remove the gauge cluster....it's only 6 bolts on my '67. However, please pardon me as I completely hijack this thread.
I actually did this mod over the weekend and it didn't turn out like I had hoped. First of all I couldn't get the intermediate shaft off of the primary shaft in the column- so cutting the centering slot was not going to happen because I couldn't get my die grinder in there. Secondly I could only slide it down maybe 1-1/2 to 2 inches before the neutral safety switch hit the firewall.
Am I a booger pickin' moron or is there some trick to this whole mod that allows the column to collapse the full 3-4 inches like Putter showed us? Or does the tilt column have a longer shift lever collar- so it looks like it was pushed in further?

[72swb_327stroker_?]

do a search.......
lots of people have threads on this subject.
its the nss that is your problem.
you need to relocate it if you want that much movement.

[Putter]

Originally Posted by Dingfodgy

First of all I couldn't get the intermediate shaft off of the primary shaft in the column- so cutting the centering slot was not going to happen because I couldn't get my die grinder in there. Secondly I could only slide it down maybe 1-1/2 to 2 inches before the neutral safety switch hit the firewall.

You may have to use some crud-buster on the joint where the column connects to the intermediate shaft. Tap it a few times with a hammer, etc...
Or simply pull it all as one unit (disconnect from the steering gear box.)
To get the column all the way down, you will have to do one of two things....either do away with the neutral switch, or move it to the engine bay. (See other threads on this topic).

ERIC

[dan42]

Putter, once you drilled out the pins, did you re-pin it or let it float? It seems to me that you might pick up a little "clunking when you hit bumps and that shaft slides back and forth. I am putting a different column in the truck because I am changeing to power steering so drilling the pins will be easy, but I was thinking of re-pinning it to stablize that area again. I put a couple of pictures of the intermediate shaft in, and one showing the pins. What do you think?

[68shortstep]

I just got a van tilt, & planning an install for the Spring.

I've read the van tilt FAQ's, and know I'll have to move the Neutral Safety Switch as shown in the FAQ.

Another Putter question: To do this "push the column in toward the dash," at the same time on the van tilt, will I have to move the NSS even farther up the column, or is the amount shown in the van tilt FAQ likely to be far enough ???

I only want to cut the column housing with the die grinder once to move the NSS. If I will have to move the switch even more, how much farther is it going to take ? Total amount I need to move it ?

Thanks in advance.

[dan42]

ttt

[72swb_327stroker_?]

dan the pins are useless, they were just plastic pins to prevent movement during assembly at the plant. the column will be secured in the cab under the dash and at the firewall, in the engine bay at the steering box. it will not move on ya... dont worry about it. the box is mounted to the frame and so on.. answer is let her float!

[Putter]

Ditto on the "Let 'er float" idea. Everything else is mounted rigid, so it should not even rattle, much less move.

68Shortstep, if you go ahead and get the column set in position, you should be able to just look and see about the NSS. If you search the forum, there is a thread from yesterday (or at least VERY recent) that shows how one member added a tab to his column, which allowed him to keep the switch in the cab.
I have a van tilt in mine, but have a truck tilt in the shed (pending)....that I haven't even cut yet, so I don't have exact measurements to offer.

Edit: I did the searching for you...here is the LINK

[Huck]

YOu can shorten the intermediate shaft which will allow your column to go way forward. The nutral safety switch can be remounted anywhere along the column with a little cutting and spot welding in a tab. We do it all the time with the longer Van or motor home tilt columns. When done, you can't tell the difference from an original truck column from the cab.

[68shortstep]

Thanks Putter & Huck.

Should have known it was a "try it & see what works" thing.

Not thinking...............