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Old 03-01-2008, 03:30 PM   #1
cowboyup1086
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crank case pressure HIGH!!!

what would cause this my friends havin a problem with it... and its causing problems
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Old 03-01-2008, 03:46 PM   #2
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

Blowby, meaning cyl pressures escaping past the rings.

How does he know this? Is the dipstick blowing out of the tube? Or is he throwing oil out of the breathers/pcv?

Let us know.
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Old 03-01-2008, 03:55 PM   #3
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

yeah, rings is abpout the only thing.
He does have a PCV valve on there, right?
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Old 03-01-2008, 04:50 PM   #4
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

on the rings and the pvc if he has one is the pvc valve stoped up?
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Old 03-01-2008, 06:12 PM   #5
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

Every engine good or bad will build internal pressure if not vented. Old blcoks had a breather tube that allowed oil vapors to vent. Then Positive Crankcase Ventalation (PCV) valves were used powered by intake manifold vacuum to suck out and cycle the oil fumes through the combustion prosess. If you have either a good vent tube or a good PCV connected to manifold vacuum, there should be no internal pressure. Huck
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Old 03-01-2008, 07:54 PM   #6
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

Went to help a buddy the other day start up his brand new engine. He was waiting for me when I got there sitting in the drivers seat with a big grin on his face. Before I really got a good look at what he had, he started it. I was busy looking for leaks and setting the timing and bam. In his rush he forgot or didn't know that the engine needed to be vented. No provisions for valve cover breather or PVC valve. Blew is brand new Holley valve covers off of it. They were cast aluminum and broke around the bolt holes. Just a hundred dollar mistake.
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Old 03-02-2008, 01:59 AM   #7
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

its a new engine so the rings should be good.... be has the holes for the pcv but has vents instead of a vacume hooked to it.. yes it leaks by the dipstick, and blows out the vents... as well as makes the pan leak
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:48 AM   #8
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

JAY- thats NUTS !!!

COWBOY- sounds like rings are not seated yet.

ive been here done this myself on my old blazer with vette covers. i kept blowing the rear main seal out. had the dealer fix it like 3x before he figured out my mistake/problem. had a hole cut in the covers and no more leaks.

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Old 03-02-2008, 04:37 AM   #9
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboyup1086 View Post
its a new engine so the rings should be good.... be has the holes for the pcv but has vents instead of a vacume hooked to it.. yes it leaks by the dipstick, and blows out the vents... as well as makes the pan leak
Could still be blow by... Has the engine been driven enough to set/seal the rings? Most engines will have some internal pressure build up but not to the point of blowing gaskets and spewing oil out the oil cap, etc. unless the vent is plugged up or too much blow by.

I would do a compression check to see where the pressure buildup is coming from.
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:47 AM   #10
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

Yeah if it is a new motor you probably just need to seat the rings. For laughs throw a compression gauge on it like 68 said, that will let you know if its rings. I always ran my new engines at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes and then changed the oil. Ran it 200 miles in city only, never going over 40. Then changed oil. Then drove 1000 miles, normal city and highway driving. Changed oil again. Then I was all set. I would stick a PCV valve in it, so you can rule that out, leave the breather on the other side. All good advice here, this should help.
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:01 AM   #11
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

those aftermarket chrom breathers suck... i mean they dont suck, thats the probleom.

like said above get a pcv valve, and make sure the rings are seated.

to seat the rings in a new motor i like to put it in 1st gear, weather automatic or manual and put around the neighborhood slowly, getting up to maybe 3-3500 rpm, and let the engine braking slow you down, if this makes scence. do it for maybe 15-20 min.
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:43 AM   #12
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by joedoozer View Post
Yeah if it is a new motor you probably just need to seat the rings. For laughs throw a compression gauge on it like 68 said, that will let you know if its rings. I always ran my new engines at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes and then changed the oil. Ran it 200 miles in city only, never going over 40. Then changed oil. Then drove 1000 miles, normal city and highway driving. Changed oil again. Then I was all set. I would stick a PCV valve in it, so you can rule that out, leave the breather on the other side. All good advice here, this should help.
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Originally Posted by BurnoutNova View Post
those aftermarket chrom breathers suck... i mean they dont suck, thats the probleom.

like said above get a pcv valve, and make sure the rings are seated.

to seat the rings in a new motor i like to put it in 1st gear, weather automatic or manual and put around the neighborhood slowly, getting up to maybe 3-3500 rpm, and let the engine braking slow you down, if this makes scence. do it for maybe 15-20 min.
Then you won’t agree with this…….. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
s/t
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:55 AM   #13
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

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Originally Posted by Sport/Truck View Post
Then you won’t agree with this…….. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
s/t
Interesting read.
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:03 AM   #14
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

it does make some scence, but i somewhat disagree that once the wear pattern begins and the peaks of the hone job wear the rings will never seats properly, they will always wear and so will the cylinder walls.
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:05 AM   #15
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

and im sure auto manufacturers would be aware of this if it were true, and scince ALOT of people belive (and can pretty mcuh prove) most new cars come with burnout chips to keep people from beating the crap out of thier new cars thier break in methods work pretty good.
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Old 03-02-2008, 04:36 PM   #16
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

I hope whoever rebuilt the engine checked the ring end gap and staggered them on the pistons.
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:43 PM   #17
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BurnoutNova View Post
and im sure auto manufacturers would be aware of this if it were true, and scince ALOT of people belive (and can pretty mcuh prove) most new cars come with burnout chips to keep people from beating the crap out of thier new cars thier break in methods work pretty good.

I haven't heard of such a chip, can you list a single car that has this? Every new rental car I've driven went straight to redline w/ the rev-limiter pegged...no problem! (worked at a car rental as a driver.)
s/t
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:32 PM   #18
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BurnoutNova View Post
and im sure auto manufacturers would be aware of this if it were true, and scince ALOT of people belive (and can pretty mcuh prove) most new cars come with burnout chips to keep people from beating the crap out of thier new cars thier break in methods work pretty good.
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I haven't heard of such a chip, can you list a single car that has this? Every new rental car I've driven went straight to redline w/ the rev-limiter pegged...no problem! (worked at a car rental as a driver.)
s/t
I think BurnoutNova is referring to the computer programming.

This is what I've read: New cars are programmed against over-reving to prevent damage to engine/transmission. I have also read that some rental car comapnies have a way to monitor your speed so that if you abuse the vehicle (speeding, racing) they will charge you extra...

Back to ring setting...

The way I've "broken" in my engine the last few times I've overhauled them is somewhat similar to the example by Motoman. For the first couple hundred miles I fluctuate my speed from slow to fast varying the rpm's so that at no time will the engine be at the same rpm for longer than, say, 5 minutes. Even to the point of putting it in neutral and reving it fast several times while driving... It's worked for me.
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:04 PM   #19
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68gmsee View Post
I think BurnoutNova is referring to the computer programming.

This is what I've read: New cars are programmed against over-reving to prevent damage to engine/transmission. I have also read that some rental car comapnies have a way to monitor your speed so that if you abuse the vehicle (speeding, racing) they will charge you extra...

Back to ring setting...

The way I've "broken" in my engine the last few times I've overhauled them is somewhat similar to the example by Motoman. For the first couple hundred miles I fluctuate my speed from slow to fast varying the rpm's so that at no time will the engine be at the same rpm for longer than, say, 5 minutes. Even to the point of putting it in neutral and reving it fast several times while driving... It's worked for me.
The rev-limiter is to protect from over-reving past redline. You can still burn out.

They can track your speed by using On-star. Another debatable subject!

Is there a way not to brake in a new engine? There are so many ideas out there it's going to be hard to prove. I don't think I'll baby mine, but not beat it either...Somewhere in between the two methods I guess.
s/t
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:09 PM   #20
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

yes there are a few cars that have the traction control/ anti burnout, pt cruiser, even the mustang has it.... to name 2 of them

Last edited by cowboyup1086; 03-02-2008 at 08:10 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:14 PM   #21
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

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yes there are a few cars that have the traction control/ anti burnout, pt cruiser, even the mustang has it.... to name 2 of them
Yes, actually most new cars have that, but its a safety thing. It's not to protect the engine.
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:46 PM   #22
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

i know that some cars have rev limiters in park, not allowing the car to rev more then say 4000 rpm in park, but when you floor it driving it revs up right up to redline

the break in: when it came time to break in my 383, an engine builder in town said alot of the things mentioned in the article. and since i have a hyd. cam. there was no cam break in. he said 8-10 runs of hard accelerate to 5000 rpm or so, then engine braking back down. once complete, take it easy (but dont be afraid to step on it a bit) and the motor should be broken in.

not to drag this on, but my dad knew a guy who had a little vega with a 426 hemi in it. he used to build the motor him self, put it in the car, fire it up, rev it up twice, but it on the trailer, and race it like theres no tomorow.
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Old 03-03-2008, 06:18 AM   #23
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

100 ways to skin a cat. Until now, my method has worked fine for me. That break in procedure on that page makes sense. I might try it on my next build. Redoing the original 350 from my 72 now.
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:03 AM   #24
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Talking Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

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Originally Posted by 69halfton View Post
and since i have a hyd. cam. there was no cam break in.

he used to build the motor him self, put it in the car, fire it up, rev it up twice, but it on the trailer, and race it like theres no tomorow.

1. you most certainly do have a break in period (2000rpm for 20mins when you fire the new engine) roller cams are the only non-break in cams

2. thats a drag car, they like them loose so they rev and they get rebuilt at the end of the season usually

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Old 03-03-2008, 01:28 PM   #25
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Re: crank case pressure HIGH!!!

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Originally Posted by Sport/Truck View Post
The rev-limiter is to protect from over-reving past redline. You can still burn out.
they call it a burn out chip because after 1500 miles or so the computer deletes the program and everything goes to normal. i think it mostly affects shift points and fuel trim, and maybe even the spark advance which dramaticly reduces stress on the engine

none of the auto manufacturers admit to doing it but i work at a ford dealership, and do PDI's all the time, and you can definately tell the brand new cars dont have the nuts the used cars do with 5000 or so miles on 'em
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